Clamps' Doopy Full Resin E11 Build

[Clamps[TK]]

While in between curing steps on my armour, I started peicing together my resin E-11 build.

 

Props go out to Craig (TK 6794) for it was his build thread that inspired most of the tweaks I will be adding (http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19872&hl=&fromsearch=1)

 

 

Here is where I am at so far:

 

Handle attached with scope rail test (its a little wonky, I will replace the rail when I get time later:

 

 

Extra hole drilled:

 

 

Handle bolt head added in place of the resin blob. Same for the front muzzle tip. Also drilled out the barrel a bit:

 

 

 

Rear Cap hole drllled:

 

 

Files down magazine screw do 3/32"-ish

 

 

Drilled out the hole for the magazine and added some JB weld to made a nice release button/nub:

 

 

Carved out front site and added tiny screw drive tip then mounted it:

 

 

 

Muzzle flash guard added:

 

 

Ejector port guard added:

 

 

Stock lock added:

 

 

Trigger, Trigger guard and selector switch mounted:

 

 

Bayonet Lug added:

 

 

Folder stock on the table curing.

 

[Malarky]

Very cool Charles. Keep the pictures coming please.

[LadyInWhite[TK]]

Cool! You make it look easy!

[Pickles[TK]]

Damn Charles Looking great!

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

real scope... real counter... ok... show us!

[Clamps[TK]]

Ok, the Bayonet lug for some reason won't hold, so I created a pin for it to hopefully make it work (no image shown).

 

Put some ABS pieces in the end cap to allow for a tighter fit. AND I afixed the D-Ring holder (seen in a later photo)

 

 

Bondo then sanded the folding stock seam

 

 

What's that in the background you ask? well its my spring and inner bolt attempt. I attached a piece of wood I found in the scrap heap that is my house, trimmed to about 2.5 inches or so. Attached the end of my spring by notching out a curved area for it to sit in and then epoxy the bejeebus out of it. I will use a screw to afix the cocking lever to it after painting.

 

 

I think I found a nice metal rod to use as an inner barrel. I am just working out how to secure it before I proceed.

[Clamps[TK]]

So, while on my trip to Calfornia back in early August, I had the pleasure to meet Vern in person, as he lives near my mother. Vern offered to sell me an Modified M38A scope. I took him up on that offer and bought it.

 

I took it home and removed the paint as it had two distinct paints on it where the modification occurred. Here you can see the stripped down version sitting on the scope rail (awaiting the arrival of the Doopy resin kit.

 

 

 

 

And here you can see the scope and rail attached to the Blaster early in the build process. The rail is not attached, that is why it is sitting high on the front.

 

 

 

More to come later today...

[jkno]

Very nice job on adding the extra part of the M38A2 scope. When painted it will look like the genuine one.

[Clamps[TK]]

Very nice job on adding the extra part of the M38A2 scope. When painted it will look like the genuine one.

Wish I could take credit, but alas, not my handy work. I'll let Vern comment on how that scope came to be (as I forget the story now).

[Clamps[TK]]

Ok, so one last goody to share, again while visiting Vern, I picked up from him a Hengstler H counter whith plastic housing. Here it is in its natural state:

 

 

 

using a template found on FISD (sorry vern I lost that little piece of paper template you hand drew), I cut out the plastic to show the Hengstler logo. I then hit the plastic with from Brass paint (just for fun, as I know it won't weather naturally being plastic).

 

[Clamps[TK]]

PS: i still need to work out the mounting of this, since the housing is plastic. I will use Vern's suggestion to use a thin piece of sheet metal on the inside of the housing and attach a 2 tiny nuts.

 

I plan to use BillHag's template for the counter bracket.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

nice work, going well there

[Clamps[TK]]

On 9/4/2012 at 7:03 AM, gmrhodes13 said:

nice work, going well there

very jealous of that metal work on your build Glen, that is gonna be SWEET!

 

Ok, so on the blaster front, here is the last item of the day:

 

My blaster installed in one of TK Bondservnt 2392's (Vern) holsters, made to convert from ANH to ESB (which there WILL be a need for in the future).

 

 

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Thanks Charles, quite a few people have had kind words about the metal work, getting asked if I will make any more, if I could get them laser cut I would as the cutting, filing and drilling is a lot of work. Your build is going well, love the counter mod

On 9/4/2012 at 9:19 AM, chookaboom said:

very jealous of that metal work on your build Glen, that is gonna be SWEET!

 

Ok, so on the blaster front, here is the last item of the day:

 

My blaster installed in one of TK Bondservnt 2392's (Vern) holsters, made to convert from ANH to ESB (which there WILL be a need for in the future).

 

 

 

 

 

 

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

billy's hengstler bracket usually puts the hengstler a little to far back and down too low.

make sure that you modify it to fit the proper alignments.

 

 

the front of the hengstler should be close to the magazine well, and the counter should sit with 1/2 of the scope showing on the horizontal axis.

 

the front pins on the counter overlap the mag well just a tad.

Edited September 4, 2012 by TK Bondservnt 2392

[Clamps[TK]]

I really need to get better eyes, cuz all I see is a dark blur in those E-11s

[Clamps[TK]]

billy's hengstler bracket usually puts the hengstler a little to far back and down too low.

make sure that you modify it to fit the proper alignments.

 

the front of the hengstler should be close to the magazine well, and the counter should sit with 1/2 of the scope showing on the horizontal axis.

 

the front pins on the counter overlap the mag well just a tad.

 

No problem on the height, that can be worked out pretty easily when it comes time to mark the holes for that on the bracket. What will take figuring out is how far forward the counter sits compared to Billhag's template, as that is not something you can fix one you cut it. I have an idea on how to make that work though with mocking up the bracket with cardboard first. I just need to get the metal to make the darned thing, as that is one of my last major pieces to work out.

 

cb

[Clamps[TK]]

oh, a question did arise in regards to the "inner barrel". How do folks attach this when they put an inner bolt and spring in as well. Do they attach it to the inner bolt. I assume this barrel would not extend past the opening for the coking handle, as the barrel should end near the magazine, right?

[Clamps[TK]]

On 9/3/2012 at 10:42 PM, chookaboom said:

Put some ABS pieces in the end cap to allow for a tighter fit. AND I afixed the D-Ring holder (seen in a later photo)

 

 

 

 

THIS FAILED.

 

the little nibs all three popped off when there was the slightest amount of torque put to them. I guess my positioning was a little off.

 

Anyone have a better way short Epoxy the whole thing shut? I am not sure why, but it would be cool to be able to open this up, perhaps for future mods or whatnot.

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

for the endcap, I'd glue it down with e-6000 just a little around the edge, this way you can eventually remove it.

 

the inner barrel, make a pvc collet on both ends and it will keep the barrel centered. ( a collet is 2 rings of thin pvc that fit both barrels. )

 

for the hengstler bracket, using cardboard and making your own template is a great way to handle it!

 

the H logo should sit directly across from the front foot of the scope.

[Clamps[TK]]

for the endcap, I'd glue it down with e-6000 just a little around the edge, this way you can eventually remove it.

 

the inner barrel, make a pvc collet on both ends and it will keep the barrel centered. ( a collet is 2 rings of thin pvc that fit both barrels. )

 

for the hengstler bracket, using cardboard and making your own template is a great way to handle it!

 

the H logo should sit directly across from the front foot of the scope.

 

Thanks for the tip and explanation, I was half way headed for the dictionary! Once I have the materials to make the bracket, I will post up the results.

 

Time to start digging around the toy boxes for potential "collets"

[HawkTrooper]

the little nibs all three popped off when there was the slightest amount of torque put to them. I guess my positioning was a little off.

 

Anyone have a better way short Epoxy the whole thing shut? I am not sure why, but it would be cool to be able to open this up, perhaps for future mods or whatnot.

 

I secured the nibs with some E6000 - solid as a rock, and the cap is still removable.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

I was thinking just do drill a couple of holes in the side of the end cap, then fill them will a couple of pieces of plastic dowel, the cut 2 L's in the end of the pipe so the dowel in the cap would slide down then twist to lock, the spring would keep it tight.

[Clamps[TK]]

I was thinking just do drill a couple of holes in the side of the end cap, then fill them will a couple of pieces of plastic dowel, the cut 2 L's in the end of the pipe so the dowel in the cap would slide down then twist to lock, the spring would keep it tight.

 

creative... I like where that is going....hmmmm

 

I secured the nibs with some E6000 - solid as a rock, and the cap is still removable.

 

Normally the Epoxy is ROCK solid, I realized when cleaning them off that I had forgotten to sand them and the inside of the cap, so perhaps the bond was not very good. Thanks for the option on going E6K

[Clamps[TK]]

Update time.

 

So, I found an old "kids" broom laying around. I took off the brush and handle and ugly wrapper and it is a metal tube with about 17cm outer diameter. This could work for my innter barrel!

 

 

So, in speaking with Vern, he gave me a tip on how to secure the smaller "inner barrel" by using collets to suspend the barrel and keep it from rattling around. I looked through all the crap in the house and could not come up with anything that seem like a good fit. Standing at my work bench, it hit me. HOCKEY TAPE.

 

I wrapped the end of the tube many times, tested the fit, more wrapes, more test fits until I found a fairly snug fit. With the tip in place, I marked where the scope rail enters the barrel and drilled out a hole large enough for the scope rail tab to fit into.

 

I removed the inner barrel and wrap a second section in tape just a bit behind that hole. Then I measured the hole to the mid ejector port and then applied measurement to the inner barrel (marked in red). This is my cut line. This will allow my spring/cocking handle piece will fit all the way up to the inner barrel and and have room to be pulled back nicely if all works to plan.

 

 

Here are a couple of shots with barrel in place that you can see through the vent holes and second angle is looking down the barrel from the muzzle tip.

 

 

 

I still need to work out a Hengstler bracket, been lazy to get out and buy the metal to make this happen.

 

So, now I just have to get everything ready for paint!!! Come on good weather!!! I am planning primer, hammered black and then possibly hitting it with a light matte black top coat. The spring, barrel etc I am gonna try to find gunmetal or at least a darker grey than the primer.

 

Fun times!