FN1313’s ANH Stunt Build thread

[FN1313[TK]]

I'm curious what your plans are for the back plate wing. 
 

Back plate wing?


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[dblcross[TK]]

9 hours ago, FN1313 said:

Back plate wing?


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https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/40831-ajs-of-am-20-build/?do=findComment&comment=656482

AJ Talks about it torwards the end of his build. the bottom of the backplate on AM molds flare out and push the backplate out past the kidney plate.

[FN1313[TK]]

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/40831-ajs-of-am-20-build/?do=findComment&comment=656482
AJ Talks about it torwards the end of his build. the bottom of the backplate on AM molds flare out and push the backplate out past the kidney plate.

I’m not really doing anything to it. So long as it sits right above the kidney against my back I don’t see any need to be doing any alterations. From what I can see unless you’re really a smaller individual it will sit against your back as is.


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[FN1313[TK]]

I will update the relevant sections later,

Last night I did the paint on the rivets




And also painted the pan head screws on the TD today


Took the shoulder bridges I made and glued them into place.



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[dblcross[TK]]

3 hours ago, FN1313 said:

I’m not really doing anything to it. So long as it sits right above the kidney against my back I don’t see any need to be doing any alterations. From what I can see unless you’re really a smaller individual it will sit against your back as is.


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Hopefully I didn't screw up! I'm 5'11", but when holding the plates together it didn't sit right for me. I've got to paint my side rivets then I'm through, but the boss told me I had to leave town for work like yesterday so I'll be in a rush to get everything approvable before May 4th. Fingers crossed! Your build looks great btw! I was just curious what your thoughts where. .

[FN1313[TK]]

Hopefully I didn't screw up! I'm 5'11", but when holding the plates together it didn't sit right for me. I've got to paint my side rivets then I'm through, but the boss told me I had to leave town for work like yesterday so I'll be in a rush to get everything approvable before May 4th. Fingers crossed! Your build looks great btw! I was just curious what your thoughts where. .

Yeah as I see them I don’t intend any changes


When I’ve worn it in testing it’s been pretty good as is.

I’m in no rush though. Waiting for my helmet as is and will be out of town from the 4th through 8th. I’m actually more worried about it delivering when I’m gone so I hope Dave got my email about when I’m out of town.


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[FN1313[TK]]

Couple steps forward and one back today.

I got the internal shoulder bridge strapping done and was able to try things on.




The back armor plastic over the shoulders was pushing the bridges and front plastic up so I trimmed both sides of the back armor back about 30mm that should help with the bridges laying flat along with the elastic bands

The other thing I noticed while suiting up and checking shoulder bells is I had the bells on the wrong sides so I’ve since removed the elastic holding them to the biceps and have new elastic setting so I can swap them around



Slight delay but shouldn’t be too long.


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[Chemi[Staff]]

Nice work, Kyle!

[FN1313[TK]]

Here’s a quick suit up I did today (still no helmet yet) forgot to do one without the blaster for better visibility…



Top left shin hook came undone here



Everything feels pretty comfortable as I’d want to in trooping. Knee sniper plate could use some foam to not press hard into my knee and push it forward a bit.

Also looks like maybe using a little heat to bend the bottom of the tushy protector in and under my rump, might be good.

Any thoughts on how to minimize the space between chest and shoulder bells up front more? I have a pretty bulky chest and back from lifting and all, so the challenge I’m seeing is it hits the side of my chest and has a hard time getting closer to the chest armor. I’ve doubled up the elastic connecting to the shoulder bridge elastic.

Maybe heat to open the bell up more and then tighter elastic to the bicep?

[Sly11[Admin]]

Almost there kyle, and looking good.

maybe adjust the back to kidney strap the lock the side down where you have a gap appearing, also when taking photos for a final submission specially no doubt your pending EI and Centurion apps, just make sure your thermal det is sitting level, aside from that you are looking really good.

[FN1313[TK]]

Almost there kyle, and looking good.
maybe adjust the back to kidney strap the lock the side down where you have a gap appearing, also when taking photos for a final submission specially no doubt your pending EI and Centurion apps, just make sure your thermal det is sitting level, aside from that you are looking really good.

Yeah TD is an easy fix back plate I probably will just tighten the straps, since they are snap made I don’t have to do any new work for glue and wait, just make some double straps to counter the pull of the shoulder bridge straps.


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[FN1313[TK]]

Alright, new doubled up snaps for the back to kidney.



And heated and bent the posterior more inward.




And tightening the bicep straps hoping that will keep shoulders in closer.




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[FN1313[TK]]

Been a while since my last post, hopefully my helmet ships soon so I can finish this build up.

For now I got the D ring installed and painted for my blaster. I also touched up the black paint for t tracks and the grip.





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[FN1313[TK]]

Well it’s been a while, but finally got a shipping number for the helmet. So I should be submitting for basic in the next week or two.


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[FN1313[TK]]

Helmet arrived, Dave’s quality is top notch I’ll try to get a full suit up with pictures tomorrow.


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[FN1313[TK]]

Alright I submitted my photos to the other GMLs where I’m at for basic approval.

https://imgur.com/a/SIXRVs6

For higher levels I need to touch up the paint on the side and knee ammo rivets and also add some inner clips to keep the posterior and kidney from overlapping.

Just curious on my shoulders, I know we want them as close as possible, I have pretty large shoulders/back/chest from lifting weights over the years and due to that I’m not sure how much closer I can effectively get them?


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[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Noticed in your helmet photo the brow trim looks a little wavy, just needs a tweak to look straight.

 

Having a completely contrasting background, full length, will help your GWL when it comes to editing your photos, perhaps keep this in mind for EIB  

 

For higher levels have a look at your posterior gap, it's pushing backwards leaving a gap in the sides V tabs can help this.

Your fabric belt is slipping lower than the angle of the plastic belt, this could be brought upwards, a small tab of velcro and help it stay.

 

 

Note that your shoulder bells appear to be angling backwards in the previous image, moving the strapping point further forward can help them pull inwards in the front, the gap is quite small at the back. Drop/bend your shoulder straps on the rear as they are sitting up

 

 

 

 

Detonator could be rotated a little more so the 0 detail can be seen

 

Good luck with approval

 

[FN1313[TK]]

Noticed in your helmet photo the brow trim looks a little wavy, just needs a tweak to look straight.

 
Having a completely contrasting background, full length, will help your GWL when it comes to editing your photos, perhaps keep this in mind for EIB  
 
For higher levels have a look at your posterior gap, it's pushing backwards leaving a gap in the sides V tabs can help this.
Your fabric belt is slipping lower than the angle of the plastic belt, this could be brought upwards, a small tab of velcro and help it stay.
 
 
Note that your shoulder bells appear to be angling backwards in the previous image, moving the strapping point further forward can help them pull inwards in the front, the gap is quite small at the back. Drop/bend your shoulder straps on the rear as they are sitting up
 
 
 
 
Detonator could be rotated a little more so the 0 detail can be seen

 
Good luck with approval
 

Good notes, yeah those are some of the things I figured I would need. Just wanted to get basic approval as soon as I could to get reinstated as a TK and the stuff I’ve been doing when I was previously with my FOTK

Considering I do the edits for most photos in our garrison I did what I could for backdrop until I can get a better option. I can work with that for now lol.

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[SublimeBW]

On 3/22/2023 at 2:13 PM, FN1313 said:

ABDOMEN

While waiting on other parts to cure glue I figured to start some of the trimming of other components especially the cod piece area of the armor being as I can’t really fit it on comfortably with a long tab stabbing between my legs

Looking at Ukswrath’s AM 1.0 tutorial and the AM 5.0 armor I have I think the extended tab is longer than it was before.

His tutorial indicated removing 2.5 cm of material. From my look it seems I should be removing 4.5 cm at least. Likely even up to 5cm





Personally I feel I should do another half centimeter and then round out the edges (you can see somewhat where I have smudged pencil is where I was thinking.

Though looking at his images it seems 4.5 would be best.

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I marked 2cm from the bottom edge of the cod piece for the rivet hole.





I will install a brass split rivet here. With a male snap on the inside when I get the snaps in.

I did have one snap from my first costume and decided to work on the Han snap on the upper right corner of the abdomen

Marking 20mm from the return edge and kidney edge and then x marks the spot.




Using a 5/32 drill bit I drilled a hole and then used a 3/8 inch drill bit to countersink BY HAND the outside so the flat end sits flush





My Han snap location was a little too far in as you’ll see later in this thread. I ended up putting a back of abs over the hole with glue and then filled with abs paste. It took two coverages and sanding sessions, but wasn’t too bad to do. I also used novus 3-2-1 to polish the area afterward.


I then measured the areas for the button panels so I could start getting them attached to the armor. The plastic here was thick, so I drilled holes at the edges of the cut points to help me better cut them apart. I then scored and snapped the top and bottom, After verifying again the size of the cuts I removed the sides.





I followed this process for the larger button panel



I then added some strips of abs behind the large panel and another small piece in the opening area to give a little extra glue area and strength






I verified the extra plastic wasn’t preventing it from sitting flush with the sides. I sanded the glue areas of each piece and then place on the abdomen. I used some blue tape to help hold position and then doubled up magnets to apply pressure.

I also verified the Han snap location is better and will tomorrow set it in place.



Finally I earlier added the male Tandy line 20 snaps for the belt (I will detail this more in the belt section)

And now that I got my Tandy line 24 snaps in I will start working on the rivet on the bottom tomorrow.

I clamped the Han snap in place and also got the split rivet with functional snap installed.




And here’s the front of the abdomen with the glued panels

 

I installed the left side snaps for the rigging with a nylon strap and 2 groups of 2 male Tandy line 24 snaps. Using clamps, magnets and wax paper I’m holding them down to glue. The wax paper is to prevent glue from sticking to the clamps/magnets

 

 

Here’s examples of the finished internal snaps for the abdomen to kidney

 

 

More details in the strapping/rigging section

 

With that done though I was able to proceed onto the button paint (probably could have done this before glueing the plates to the abdomen, but oh well.

 

First thing was I needed a tool to help me be able to make the blue tape cover for the snaps for when I painted. I found a nut and bolt sizing tool at Lowe’s for $5 that I hoped worked and sure enough the M10 size was fairly spot on.

 

 

From here I marked up tape on a spare piece of abs plastic and then used precision blade to cut around the outside of the circle I marked. Then i laid out each of these over the buttons to paint.

 

I then referenced this guide to know which buttons to paint which grey or blue color

 

I decided to paint by hand and not use airgun because cold weather and air guns don’t work, plus it’s such a small surface area.

Looking online for instructions on Testors enamel paints I wanted to know how long to wait between coats (I planned 3 coats) and how long to let the paint sit before I removed the masking tape.

The rules I found were 5 minutes between coats, final coat should be a heavier coat for better gloss appearance, and 2 hours delay before removing masking tape.

 

Following that process I did the first and second coats with a lighter coating.

 

 

And the third heavier coat

 

 

After 2 hours I removed the masking tape carefully, being sure to slowly pull out and away from the paint and not touch it.

 

 

Here’s another photo with natural lighting

 

From here I need to let the paint cure for 48 to 72 hours as enamel paint will harden over that time, but until then it’s still likely to cause paint damage more than after.

 

Abdomen is now complete and ready for rigging up further.

Bringing up an old portion of your Abdomen build. What material did you use for your reinforcement along the edges? I have some spare ABS scraps but those look a little too light and like the idea of .

[SublimeBW]

On 3/22/2023 at 2:13 PM, FN1313 said:

ABDOMEN

While waiting on other parts to cure glue I figured to start some of the trimming of other components especially the cod piece area of the armor being as I can’t really fit it on comfortably with a long tab stabbing between my legs

Looking at Ukswrath’s AM 1.0 tutorial and the AM 5.0 armor I have I think the extended tab is longer than it was before.

His tutorial indicated removing 2.5 cm of material. From my look it seems I should be removing 4.5 cm at least. Likely even up to 5cm





Personally I feel I should do another half centimeter and then round out the edges (you can see somewhat where I have smudged pencil is where I was thinking.

Though looking at his images it seems 4.5 would be best.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I marked 2cm from the bottom edge of the cod piece for the rivet hole.





I will install a brass split rivet here. With a male snap on the inside when I get the snaps in.

I did have one snap from my first costume and decided to work on the Han snap on the upper right corner of the abdomen

Marking 20mm from the return edge and kidney edge and then x marks the spot.




Using a 5/32 drill bit I drilled a hole and then used a 3/8 inch drill bit to countersink BY HAND the outside so the flat end sits flush





My Han snap location was a little too far in as you’ll see later in this thread. I ended up putting a back of abs over the hole with glue and then filled with abs paste. It took two coverages and sanding sessions, but wasn’t too bad to do. I also used novus 3-2-1 to polish the area afterward.


I then measured the areas for the button panels so I could start getting them attached to the armor. The plastic here was thick, so I drilled holes at the edges of the cut points to help me better cut them apart. I then scored and snapped the top and bottom, After verifying again the size of the cuts I removed the sides.





I followed this process for the larger button panel



I then added some strips of abs behind the large panel and another small piece in the opening area to give a little extra glue area and strength






I verified the extra plastic wasn’t preventing it from sitting flush with the sides. I sanded the glue areas of each piece and then place on the abdomen. I used some blue tape to help hold position and then doubled up magnets to apply pressure.

I also verified the Han snap location is better and will tomorrow set it in place.



Finally I earlier added the male Tandy line 20 snaps for the belt (I will detail this more in the belt section)

And now that I got my Tandy line 24 snaps in I will start working on the rivet on the bottom tomorrow.

I clamped the Han snap in place and also got the split rivet with functional snap installed.




And here’s the front of the abdomen with the glued panels

 

I installed the left side snaps for the rigging with a nylon strap and 2 groups of 2 male Tandy line 24 snaps. Using clamps, magnets and wax paper I’m holding them down to glue. The wax paper is to prevent glue from sticking to the clamps/magnets

 

 

Here’s examples of the finished internal snaps for the abdomen to kidney

 

 

More details in the strapping/rigging section

 

With that done though I was able to proceed onto the button paint (probably could have done this before glueing the plates to the abdomen, but oh well.

 

First thing was I needed a tool to help me be able to make the blue tape cover for the snaps for when I painted. I found a nut and bolt sizing tool at Lowe’s for $5 that I hoped worked and sure enough the M10 size was fairly spot on.

 

 

From here I marked up tape on a spare piece of abs plastic and then used precision blade to cut around the outside of the circle I marked. Then i laid out each of these over the buttons to paint.

 

I then referenced this guide to know which buttons to paint which grey or blue color

 

I decided to paint by hand and not use airgun because cold weather and air guns don’t work, plus it’s such a small surface area.

Looking online for instructions on Testors enamel paints I wanted to know how long to wait between coats (I planned 3 coats) and how long to let the paint sit before I removed the masking tape.

The rules I found were 5 minutes between coats, final coat should be a heavier coat for better gloss appearance, and 2 hours delay before removing masking tape.

 

Following that process I did the first and second coats with a lighter coating.

 

 

And the third heavier coat

 

 

After 2 hours I removed the masking tape carefully, being sure to slowly pull out and away from the paint and not touch it.

 

 

Here’s another photo with natural lighting

 

From here I need to let the paint cure for 48 to 72 hours as enamel paint will harden over that time, but until then it’s still likely to cause paint damage more than after.

 

Abdomen is now complete and ready for rigging up further.

Bringing up an old portion of your Abdomen build. What material did you use for your reinforcement along the edges? I have some spare ABS scraps but those look a little too light and like the idea of.

Also, as previously mentioned, great documentation and build! Having a reference of the same armor was a fantastic way to build confidence.

Edit: Sorry for the double post, I didn't think the first one went through.

Edited July 6, 2023 by SublimeBW
Reasoning double post

[FN1313[TK]]

Bringing up an old portion of your Abdomen build. What material did you use for your reinforcement along the edges? I have some spare ABS scraps but those look a little too light and like the idea of.

Also, as previously mentioned, great documentation and build! Having a reference of the same armor was a fantastic way to build confidence.

Edit: Sorry for the double post, I didn't think the first one went through.

I bought some black abs off of Amazon that was 1/16 inch thick to reinforce. I have more that I’ll use to add the v tabs for the posterior to kidney connection and I might also improve the bits that are meant to keep the armor sides together the current tabs I have are a little short so they don’t seem to do the job like I’d want.


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[SublimeBW]

Good to know. Looks like those sheets are pretty reasonably priced so I grabbed a set. Thanks for the info. 

[FN1313[TK]]

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Congratulations trooper and welcome to the ranks

[FN1313[TK]]

I also have some templates I put together for these. I know FISD has their own trading card templates, but if anyone was interested in these templates for FISD members I have them.





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