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MakeNoiseMan

Mayo's ANH Stunt (AP) build

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Awesome, yes I've seen others do that! What is the best way to create that little bend? I don't work with tools or metal very often.
 
Also, I've seen others suggest to put a strip of soft velcro along the back of the clips to prevent them from scratching your armour (which is a great idea). Just wondering, does anyone ever add hook velcro to the back of the abdomen plate to help keep the thermal detonator attached and in place? Or does that cause other problems, like difficulty sliding it under the belt, for instance.



I’ve seen people try it on Scouts only to take it off because it causes issues when removing it. I’ve personally never lost mine but I’m still fairly new so I’m sure it is possible. I have mine wrapped in leftover felt fabric, same concept just softer. As for the little bend I bought mine premade, but it’s a thin metal so I’d say if you wrap it around the the TD for the big bend, screw it in, then place a pencil or screwdriver in there for the little bend it should work but again I’m newer so I’m sure you’ll get a few ideas on it.


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15 minutes ago, MakeNoiseMan said:

Awesome, yes I've seen others do that! What is the best way to create that little bend? I don't work with tools or metal very often.

 

Also, I've seen others suggest to put a strip of soft velcro along the back of the clips to prevent them from scratching your armour (which is a great idea). Just wondering, does anyone ever add hook velcro to the back of the abdomen plate to help keep the thermal detonator attached and in place? Or does that cause other problems, like difficulty sliding it under the belt, for instance.

I have a vice in the garage - so I just stuck an end in there and give it a quick bend.  I'm not creative enough to think of another way to do it.  :P As for the Velcro - you will want your TD to move with your belt, so I'd be hesitant to add hook Velcro to the armour - plus it would make it really hard to get it on while dressing.  I've never had an issue with the TD working its way off the belt.

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Thanks guys! Makes sense.

I just want to confirm - the bend goes away from the TD, yeah? That’s what it looks like in the photo to me, but I want to make sure that my eyes aren’t playing tricks on me, heheh.


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4 minutes ago, MakeNoiseMan said:

Thanks guys! Makes sense.

I just want to confirm - the bend goes away from the TD, yeah? That’s what it looks like in the photo to me, but I want to make sure that my eyes aren’t playing tricks on me, heheh.


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Yeah.  Here is a pic of the profile from the RS suit.  If you click the pic and follow the link, you will end up at the RS gallery - there are a bunch of reference shots of screen used armour.

 

 

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18 hours ago, troopermaster said:

Hi Dan,

 

I read your post as Brendan needed to change the vocoder paint to match a stunt rather than a hero. The truth is there is no specific style to paint the vocoder regardless of being a stunt or hero helmet, As you can see on both Han and Luke's hero helmets. both vocoders are painted quite full. I'm just trying to keep up with you guys as I build lots of these helmets for people and I don't want them being knocked back because of CRL rules I am unaware of.

tri23tG.jpgzypaoLJ.jpg

 

Hi Paul,

 

No worries. I always try to be careful with my wording but apologies if it came across wrong. I agree that there is not a defining “hero” vocoder. Stunt does appear to have a consistently full style which Brendan has now done. 

Always appreciate your input. 

16 hours ago, MakeNoiseMan said:

Hi again! I've finished both ears. And the result:

DOmysdu.jpg

 

zdFxMsQ.jpg

 

Like I said, I'm pretty sure this is the best I can do. Is anything about this going to be a barrier to Centurion?

Thanks for all of your ongoing help, everyone!

Awesome job on the ears and vocoder!! You’re making great progress. 

 

Regarding the tube stripes, you’re not a million miles of so we wouldn’t penalise you for it. When you apply for EIB and Centurion, you will likely find myself or one of the other Deployment Officers ‘suggesting’ that the tube stripes would ideally be approximately a pencil width from the cheek. 

 

Keep up the great work, Trooper. :duim:

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Brendan- FYI, before future scavenger hunts, just know you can find most supplies needed either from JustJoseph or Trooperbay. Tony (UKSWRATH) also has some goods, as you know. To echo folks above, just paint the screws black and you’ll be fine. I recommend you just paint the entire tube gray. I saw you left some parts unpainted. Just hit the whole thing with a couple coats. I used spray paint, but you can brush it on too if you’re smooth with the brush strokes.

 

My before:

d3b67717b57cf47ee608a9aa0ba2e3d8.jpg

 

My after:

84a328d0d2242edcc8b572388afc7d69.jpg

 

As for Velcro on the clips, I recently made this change myself. I hadn’t done this and Joseph recommended it to me. I was like “duh, why didn’t I think of this?!” because those clip corners are sharp.

 

No, no loop Velcro is needed. I think when the belt is on, and the Velcro is on your clips, it’s tight enough to keep it in place. I recommend you take one long strip that is long enough to cover both sides of each clip entirely. I put the end of the clips in the center of the Velcro strips, and just folded the Velcro over.

 

 

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Just an FYI regarding the tube stripes: they are beeing revised for 2019 CRL update and the suggestion is that for Centurion they will need to be no more than a standard pencil width from the cheek. It’s not implemented yet but it’s likely it will. :salute:

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Thanks, guys!

 

Good thoughts, Matt! Spray paint is a good idea, it looks nice and even. I'll see how mine looks once it's dry, and if needed I'll change course. The hand-painted look appeals to me, but not at the expense of accuracy. Also, I'd have to go buy some spray paint. :-)

Dan and Daniel, thanks for the ongoing info! Based on that, I'll go ahead and move on from the helmet but I'll be prepared to redo the tube stripes if the 2019 CRL requires it!

No big update for the moment. I did get my screws painted, though!

2uN0Mq5.jpg

Once the paint is dry I should be all set to assemble the TD. After that I think I'm gonna do the forearms next. Question for you experienced troopers, do your gloves go on last? If so, are you able to just stuff the wrists of your gloves inside the forearms? I can't imagine that the forearms would fit sliding over the handplates if it were the other way around.

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15 minutes ago, MakeNoiseMan said:

do your gloves go on last? If so, are you able to just stuff the wrists of your gloves inside the forearms?

Correct:salute:

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19 minutes ago, MakeNoiseMan said:

do your gloves go on last?

There are a few videos out there that show people getting dressed.  Worth a watch - gives some good insight into a few things.

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There are a few videos out there that show people getting dressed.  Worth a watch - gives some good insight into a few things.

I would never have thought to search for that, that’s a great idea. Thanks :-D


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Hi all! 

The paint has finished drying, so I screwed the mounting clips on and did a test fit.

nsKliFI.jpg

 

4A1Vhei.jpg

 

HhQMg3I.jpg

 

d50F9f4.jpg

 

fC2Mph4.jpg

 

With everything fitting alright, I had my first date with E6000. I've read about all it's wonderfulness. Happy to finally be acquainted! 

 

iUpq6Z5.jpg

 

Matt, do you think the paint turned out well enough? I thought so, so I went ahead and glued, but if not, I'll peel the faceplate off and go with the spray paint.

 

In the meantime, on to the forearms. Onwards!

Edited by MakeNoiseMan
accidental double photo post
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Hi all! 

The paint has finished drying, so I screwed the mounting clips on and did a test fit.

nsKliFI.jpg&key=20866f2ec59a12699333fc3b9b396082ce652451fc17db5e943414dd63acbf15
 
4A1Vhei.jpg&key=3d907559bb79ff186d8b3487d0c7d8de0eed73a615196d5a37e7002a32425971
 
HhQMg3I.jpg&key=98bb480eb5dd857bf2ecb7db5a370b5601d675bb0d0689ffd674109bb6a15c73
 
d50F9f4.jpg&key=017ea5a8a9767348349450075c197967fb2b4318f07a2ee2cff01930dcc405c8
 
fC2Mph4.jpg&key=db0390959f80c5e0eb994412e4d05c4ee382a76803ceda500de02c6b363f52c0
 
With everything fitting alright, I had my first date with E6000. I've read about all it's wonderfulness. Happy to finally be acquainted! 
 
iUpq6Z5.jpg&key=ac33df31762f6b2c01b3e3df301165182a18d63e11c1089c87f07ebe229b4797
 
Matt, do you think the paint turned out well enough? I thought so, so I went ahead and glued, but if not, I'll peel the faceplate off and go with the spray paint.
 
In the meantime, on to the forearms. Onwards!

Yup, looks good.


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Incredible job so far, Brendan!  Glad to see you asking questions... many don't and end up having to re-do certain areas.  I know you are pretty much finished with the TD, but if I could make a couple of suggestions they would be to cut down the length of the clips and tighten up the bend a bit more.  The bottom of the clips look as if they will show too much when attached to your cloth belt, and tightening up the bend will keep it more secure.  You can also add some white Velcro (the fuzzy side) to the inside and out of the rear of the clip.  This will also help keep it secure and prevent it from scratching your armor.

 

                                                                                              Reference image

zKtB65U.jpg?1   GGqEXgw.jpg?1

 

I think you would have a better look if you reversed your S-trim... (the rounded part on the inside/flat on the outside).  Appears to be a bit bulbous.

 

lNM8AeA.jpg?1 RiD7D84.jpg?1  h0TBB4K.jpg

 

Keep up the great work, future Centurion!

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7 hours ago, justjoseph63 said:

Incredible job so far, Brendan!  Glad to see you asking questions... many don't and end up having to re-do certain areas.  I know you are pretty much finished with the TD, but if I could make a couple of suggestions they would be to cut down the length of the clips and tighten up the bend a bit more.  The bottom of the clips look as if they will show too much when attached to your cloth belt, and tightening up the bend will keep it more secure.  You can also add some white Velcro (the fuzzy side) to the inside and out of the rear of the clip.  This will also help keep it secure and prevent it from scratching your armor.

 

                                                                                              Reference image

zKtB65U.jpg?1   GGqEXgw.jpg?1

 

I think you would have a better look if you reversed your S-trim... (the rounded part on the inside/flat on the outside).  Appears to be a bit bulbous.

 

lNM8AeA.jpg?1 RiD7D84.jpg?1  h0TBB4K.jpg

 

Keep up the great work, future Centurion!

Thanks so much, Joseph!

Yes I totally see what you mean about the TD clips. Once the glue dries I'll make sure to squeeze them together a little tighter and, if I can, trim them down a little. 

 

Also, as per your suggestion, I flipped the S-trim around. I like it WAAAY better! Are both ways acceptable, or did I simply have mine on backwards? Either way, thanks for pointing it out!

0oGxax6.jpg

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58 minutes ago, MakeNoiseMan said:

Are both ways acceptable, or did I simply have mine on backwards? 

I've seen it both ways, but I always refer back to the originals.  It's easy to do, and I think it looks way better (like you have it now)! :D

 

Keep the questions and photos coming!!

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13 minutes ago, justjoseph63 said:

I've seen it both ways, but I always refer back to the originals.  It's easy to do, and I think it looks way better (like you have it now)! :D

 

Keep the questions and photos coming!!

Will do! :-) I've got a few more questions coming up already. 

 

I've been starting on the forearms today! I understand it that AP forearms are identical and there is no designated "left arm" or "right arm". Is this true of all the limb pieces (biceps, shoulders, thighs and shins)? Based on how they fit together in the box, it seems like yes, but I want to make sure!

 

iyjXLJB.jpg

 

This forearm will be for my left arm. I did a test fit and then marked the overlap with a pencil.

 

b3tLftf.jpg

 

4DIWknZ.jpg

 

It was approximately a 2cm overlap. I split the difference and trimmed approximately 1cm from each piece on both sides (with a test fit in between, just to be sure!)

 

GfPzQ5p.jpg

 

kRF0pPz.jpg?1

 

And a final test fit. Feels pretty good!

vx7Um3s.jpg

 

And now on to the questions. Firstly, does the amount of space at left at my wrist look normal to you guys? I feel like It would look better closed up a little tighter, and the forearm feels just a little loose on my arm as it gets further from my elbow. Maybe that's normal too. If I close it any smaller, my hand doesn't fit through. However, I haven't dremeled or sanded the opening yet, which would give my hand just a teeny bit more room. Bigger hands and smaller wrists, I suppose.

 

Next, I am a heftier fellow than those 160lb, 5'10 British gentlemen in the movies. I've read that screen-accurate measurement for cover strips is 15mm on the forearms/biceps. The way my forearm is cut, the surface area of the flat part is 25mm. I have read you should try to get as close to that as possible, but that the priority is uniformity. Should I cut 25mm cover strips? Or meet in the middle somewhere (20mm cover strips, with 2.5mm of flat area on each side). Or, maybe I haven't yet fitted the forearm correctly and it'll tighten up a little more. 

 

Thirdly, I'd like to run inner strips for structural support. For my fellow AP users, is there enough ABS in the kit to make each cover strip twice? Or should I do my best to first use up my ABS scraps for this purpose?

And finally, does it matter which cover strip is glued on first (outer or inner)? My instinct is to glue the inner strip first, assemble the forearm, and then glue on the outer strip once everything is all tidy and nice.

 

Whew! That was a lot of questions. Thanks for your help, everyone!

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If you are running a little tight on space for forearms I would recommend trimming all return edge first.  That will buy you some room.  25mm is too much for a coverstrip - and ideally, the coverstrip should cover all of the underlying ridge (ideally).  You could go as much as 20mm (?) if you really needed to - but keep in mind your bicep will have to be as wide and your legs will have to be wider than 20mm so everything looks proportional.  You can make the back coverstrips (arms) a little wider than the front if you need to - a few mm will not be noticed from front to back.

 

Yes, be sure to leave enough room to get your hand through. ;)

 

You should have enough coverstrip material to do inside coverstrips - but leave it to the end, just in case.  I used inner coverstrips on the thighs right off the bat  (they are a bit tricky compared to the arms).  So, for my arms the inner coverstrip went on later - for my legs the inner coverstrip went on first.

 

did I miss anything?  :)

 

Keep up the stellar work!

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The wrist looks as if it could be a bit more snug, but as you mentioned you need to get your hand through!.  Since we expect at this point to see you eventually apply for levels  2 and 3 (;)), before gluing the cover strips I would remove all of the return edges on the wrist.  This may give you a bit more wiggle room.

OAjbbC7.jpg   wRkqAu7.jpg?1

 

Are these you cut lines?  If so, (and they fit comfortably) you are in good shape.  Since you are "heftier fellow than those 160lb, 5'10 British gentlemen in the movies" you can have more of the ridge showing if needed.  It will take a bit of trial and error, but I would cut them down a bit at a time until you get a comfy fit.  You can also remove all of the return edges at the top as well if you like.

QRJitDW.jpg?1   79dtDVW.jpg?2

 

As many of you know, I am not a fan of return edges on forearms, (or biceps, or thigh tops, or shoulder bells).  Some troopers like the "thicker armor" look, which is fine and dandy, but some (especially those who need the space) can remove them and still be 100% screen accurate.  Plus, return edges can really cut into you while trooping, especially in the cod (groin) and top of the forearm, which is bent most of the time due to carrying an E-11.

 

QBYQQ7M.jpg?1    Nz5Rika.jpg?1    eyZfkH7.jpg?1

 

I personally like to glue the inside cover strips first and check the fit.  This way, if there are any alterations that need to be done you don't have to worry about scratching your armor removing them.  Inner cover strips can actually be made from ABS scraps, (or even cut from a heavy duty white plastic "For Sale" sign).  They are not seen, and don't have to be pretty, just functional.  Many don't bother with them,, but I always suggest using them on the inside of the calves if nowhere else because that connection gets a lot of use opening and closing them.

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Thanks for your answers, guys! :-D 

 

Trimming the return edge made a huge impact. My hands fits through much more easily, and I was able to trim the forearm down to 15mm cover strips on both the front and the back! Woohoo! I plan to remove the return edges on the elbow end as well. Mobility and comfort while wearing the suit are great points to keep in mind!

 

QCByd3R.jpg

 

xPBn0GZ.jpg

 

I think I have enough ABS scraps from the small amount I've already cut out to make the inner cover strips here, so I think I'll go ahead and do those first. I will, however, keep in mind to ration my ABS responsibly so as not to run out for the visible cover strips. :-)

Another question, is there a consensus on whether do trim the elbow end of the cover strip to follow the slant? In my opinion, I think it would look better to do so, and would dig into the elbow less. But I have seen it done both ways. 

 

e7SNLyQ.jpg

 

Thanks for your input, as always!

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I've done both in the past - I recommend trimming it. 

 

I noticed that the upper part of your forearm looks tight in the one picture.  Can you fit a finger in between your arm and armour?

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3 minutes ago, wook1138 said:

I've done both in the past - I recommend trimming it. 

 

I noticed that the upper part of your forearm looks tight in the one picture.  Can you fit a finger in between your arm and armour?

I'll test that once I get home again! I haven't taken all of the return edge off of the elbow end, so that should open it up some more too. If needed, it sounds like 16mm or 17mm cover strips would be acceptable, so I'll keep that mind as a backup plan. :-)

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Just now, MakeNoiseMan said:

If needed, it sounds like 16mm or 17mm cover strips would be acceptable, so I'll keep that mind as a backup plan. :-)

You bet.  That is exactly what I did - 16 to 17mm.

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