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Twnbrother

Twnbrother Build with Dday, FieldMarshall, Aaron, T-Jay, SWPropman and more parts

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I have been so busy with work that I have not been able to work on this Blaster.   A few quick updates. I changed the battery to 2 Lithium ion 3.7 volt batteries. They are the same size as AAA.  I am running them in parallel to keep the volts the same bit increase Mah.   I also switched out the 2.54 wires for 1.25 micro jst  3 wire.  A lot smaller and easier to handle.  

 

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Here is a pic of the barrel (10mm hollow aluminium tube) and the chamber. Just as before with the 2.54 jst I rigged the 1.25 jst and RBG LED (with 12 ohm resistor) and sealed in resin.  The trigger wires are the power in.  Two power outs.  One to the RBG in the barrel and the other will be to the sound cards. 

 

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Now I just gotta paint it black 

Edited by Twnbrother
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Hi Mike, glad to see you are working on this blaster again. Lights look good. Do they stay active as long as you keep the trigger pulled?

Cannot wait for the sounds and looking forward to your next update.

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7 minutes ago, T-Jay said:

Hi Mike, glad to see you are working on this blaster again. Lights look good. Do they stay active as long as you keep the trigger pulled?

Cannot wait for the sounds and looking forward to your next update.

 

Thanks Tino.  It’s been fun working on it again. The light stays active as long as the trigger is pulled.  I was trying to figure out an easy way for it to cycle.  Maybe a 555 timer chip.  But where to put it?

 

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No reason to cycle the lights, Mike. The only thing I would suggest is to add a "silent second" to the end of every sound - so you can release the trigger at the correct moment.

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23 minutes ago, Dracotrooper said:

Superb modification - sounds nice and loud too emoji1.pngemoji106.png!

Thanks. There is a small amp chip to get it good and loud.  Made my cat jump. Lol

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5 hours ago, T-Jay said:

No reason to cycle the lights, Mike. The only thing I would suggest is to add a "silent second" to the end of every sound - so you can release the trigger at the correct moment.

I have been playing around with the recording and cannot get a clean “silent second”. Gotta find another sound file to record.  The one I have has noise immediately following both the stun and blast.   I might have to load an audrino chip.....  but I really have no experience with them.  

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You can dump the sound file into a free mixer utility like Audacity and manually add the “silent second” then export it back into whatever file type you need.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

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3 hours ago, MoSc0ut said:

You can dump the sound file into a free mixer utility like Audacity and manually add the “silent second” then export it back into whatever file type you need.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Thanks for the idea.  I will try it 

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Today I was able to get a clean recording of the stun and fire.  It was so easy.  You wouldn't believe where I found the sounds.   Starwars.com     They have a soundboard control page where you can listen to several different Star Wars sounds.  drag and drop the sound into their soundboard and record with the ICD1820...  too easy.  I now have the "silent second" suggested by Tino.

 

http://www.starwars.com/games-apps/star-wars-soundboard

 

 

Edited by Twnbrother
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Even better than messing with a mixer! Can’t wait to see this one completed!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Very cool, Mike. This should give you enough time to release the trigger in a good moment while trooping.

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Fantastic job dude, really impressed.

 

If anyone is interested I do a fully assembled light/sound kit (and also a mini sight display kit) that makes the electronics easier.

 

https://facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=1753634708009867&id=964476920258987

 

Not trying to highjack the thread as I've been watching with interest and love what you've done.

 

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I am now looking at putting the sound cards in the Hengslter.  I hollowed out the back side and it fits the cards perfectly.  I did dremel out a hole all the way through ....  oops. :rolleyes:  now a little green stuff can’t fix. 

 

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3 hours ago, pwhitrow said:

Fantastic job dude, really impressed.

 

If anyone is interested I do a fully assembled light/sound kit (and also a mini sight display kit) that makes the electronics easier.

 

https://facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=1753634708009867&id=964476920258987

 

Not trying to highjack the thread as I've been watching with interest and love what you've done.

 

 Nope,not a hijacking.  

 

Your Tramp is simply amazing.  I will be buying your blast fx and scope reticle to put in Chris’s  (Fieldmarshall) kit when it is in production. I had the pleasure of visiting Chris at his shop in South Carolina.  Super nice dude.   

 

The work you did with Brian (bullhdogProps) on fitting the scope OLED in the hollow resin  M38. Wow!!!!   I was following the progress.  

 

I am glad to support you and your products. 

Edited by Twnbrother
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gotta love that green stuff Mike; it has come to save the day for me on many occasions. Like seeing your sound card fit so snug - that's sweet!

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I have a blue snaggletooth fake hengslter amd thought about using this one for the sounds cards.  I gutted it.  Dermeled out some of the metal.   The cards fit easily into this.  Thoughts?  Which one to use?  I am leaning to the blue snaggletooth 

 

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Such an in depth build. Very interesting to follow and can’t wait to see it compete. :-)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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3 hours ago, Twnbrother said:

I have a blue snaggletooth fake hengslter amd thought about using this one for the sounds cards.  I gutted it.  Dermeled out some of the metal.   The cards fit easily into this.  Thoughts?  Which one to use?  I am leaning to the blue snaggletooth 

Given the choices you have; I would lean to the blue snaggletooth one as well. A hengstler counter with metal component parts adds believable weight and realism. I vote for this one.

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