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Twnbrother

Twnbrother Build with Dday, FieldMarshall, Aaron, T-Jay, SWPropman and more parts

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I have been gathering parts and pieces since my last build...  Many thanks to T-Jay for all the help and ideas, to Field Marshal..........WOW!!!!  what can I say... his E-11 is damn near perfect.  Also, to Dday's Pheonix Props kit, this kit is the base for this build.  I just recently figured out how to repost pics.  This time I am using IMGUR since photobuckets change to policy.

 

I started with Field Marhal's M38.  Since this is Aluminum, I used a Zinc Chromate primer.  Once dried I used a base coat of Vallejo Bright Brass.  I also "cast" the number 2 from my 1943 M38.. simply Hobby Lobby mold and resin

 

5O9r3Am.jpg

 

I then over sprayed with a 2:1 Vallejo bright brass and brassy brass.  I think I got the color close.

 

VckTPvs.jpg

 

I then used a super light layer of Vallejo sandy paste.  Once dried I lightly sanded the "sand" with 1000 grit sand paper to give it texture.  Once compete I covered with Vallejo chipping compound.

 

C2tHbOa.jpg

 

I then painted it black and used water to "chip" the paint.  This part takes practice and you can remove too much.  But, the good thing is you can wipe it all off with water and start again.  Once I got it where I liked it, I sealed it with Vallejo metallic varnish. Instead of using an airbrush for the varnish, I brushed it on.  If you look at the original you can see brush strokes.  I brush stoked the long axis...  ooops, it should have been around the circumference.  Ohh well.  I dusted it with some real dirt and then darkened the white lettering.

 

e2Levg8.jpg

 

I used the "red/orange" lens from Tino's kit.  I placed it behind to one that came with the M38... it gives it a pretty neat effect.

 

fxSE7HZ.jpg

 

jE9tWP3.jpg

 

 

Here is a close up of the chipping on the M38 and a side by side shot.

 

agQZCHa.jpg

 

QfTEy3D.jpg

 

ZM2rf7D.jpg?1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Twnbrother
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Fantastic paint job on the scope Mike! Wow, looks authentic! 

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Oh boy is this going to be good. I will follow this with eager anticipation of what's coming next


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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The magazine I opted to use is from swpropman. I liked it because it extended less from the magazine well.  His magazines come hollow, but I prefer solide resin. So I cut it to the lenght I wanted andfilled it with resin. I painted this gunmetal and then a layer of chipping compound. Then a final coat of black. Chipped away after applying water to give it the weathered metal look.  Then added some rust and carbon pigments.  Sealed with satin varnish, but thinking about using metal varnish instead. 

 

dxx88mD.jpg

 

2uIJO6G.jpg

 

6Yc4Wip.jpg

 

 

Edited by Twnbrother
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Outstanding work Mike. Side-by-side photos from the scopes really make it hard to tell which one is real. Can't wait for your next steps. Following...

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With this build I want to add lights and sounds...  so the question is where to store the batteries?  I opted to use Swpropmans trigger group and pistol grip.  This is a two piece item where the pistol grip is screwed in place like the original.  I hollowed out the grip frame to fit a two AAA battery holder.  Fits perfectly.

 

ad0k4WM.jpg

 

tv2e2OO.jpg

 

48r7CF2.jpg

 

I then used a forstner bit to drill out a flat bottom hole for the 3 position rotary switch from Tino's kit.

 

mFMCPQw.jpg

 

To connect the grip frame to the aluminum tube I used M3 blind rivets. You could use M3/M4 standoffs with counter sunk flat head screws...  just difficult to mount.  This will allow you to screw the grip frame on from the outside.Having the ability to remove the grip frame is the "just in case" something happens to the electronic/wiring.  The bolt slides easily over the rivet heads. 

 

BRKXzvz.jpg

 

A pic inside the tube to see the low profile of the M3 blind rivets

 

yWx3tRe.jpg

 

Edited by Twnbrother
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wow!!! i will definitely be following your build on the trigger group!!! keep ém coming Mike!

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Here Ian a pic of the grip frame with the rotary switch underneath. There is just a small space to cover with green stuff.

 

yjzeBtB.jpg

 

ewPwN5B.jpg

 

Also showing how the wires route from the battery holder.

PRsLOgo.jpg

 

 I opted to put the momentary switch for the trigger in front of the hammer.  I installed the hammer using Tino's technique. 

 

nxS40Sp.jpg

 

 

 

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I also built the folding stock from swpropman.  I did change out his hollow aluminium pins for the ones from T-Jays finishing kit.  

 

Rdd8m1W.jpg

 

SZj8R88.jpg

 

5H03Vsb.jpg

 

i used the folding stock mount piece from Ddays kit.  I drilled/taped a hole through the resin and aluminium.  I the glued the piece down with locktite plastic epoxy. I then screwed in srcew to hold till dry.   Once dry removed the screw, taped off the inside and filled with resin.  Should be a strong connection. 

 

hTsfPO3.jpg

 

hnp3BfX.jpg

 

9pE55eP.jpg

 

iDUUdbG.jpg

 

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With this 2-part pistol grip, the rotary switch can be installed so easy - compared to the full resin pieces. Would be nice to have more blaster kits using this.

Great progress Mike. And your folding stock looks very good. All resin? It does not seem to be supported like the one from DoopyDoo's, so any worries about breaking the thin resin walls?

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I really like the two part pistol grip. I wish it was resin as the kit is plastic.   I should hold as it is pretty thick

 

I am worried about the folding stock as well.   It is plastic, so time will tell.  If I breaks I can replace it with the plastic  for the aluminium one coming soon from Fieldmarshall.

 

I am also installing the mag well so that it can be replaced if it breaks.  I really really really like the durability of the mag and mag well from Derek...  but the detail of the plastic one from Swpropman is better.   I am still torn on which one to install.

Edited by Twnbrother

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I installed 3 M4 blind rivets for the mag well.  I opted to use the mag fro swpropman, but I filled the base and extractor hole with resin.  Best of both worlds.   Two of the M4 blind rivets are screwed in. The third is for stability as I placed a magnet to hold the magazine in place where the screw would have been. 

 

I2BRIat.jpg

 

KyCLiqL.jpg

 

 

RCI92NC.jpg

 

vzi0Y9A.jpg

 

You can see the screw head where the extractor pin hole was. 

 

hOmrXFL.jpg

 

XLn5q0X.jpg

 

 

 

 

Edited by Twnbrother

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hey Mike what is the size of the forstner bit you used to drill out a flat bottom hole for the rotary switch?

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14 minutes ago, darthcue said:

hey Mike what is the size of the forstner bit you used to drill out a flat bottom hole for the rotary switch?

 I just checked and it was a 1" forstner bit.  The flat bottom bit is key. A regular bit may punch through the other side

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6 minutes ago, Twnbrother said:

 I just checked and it was a 1" forstner bit.  The flat bottom bit is key. A regular bit may punch through the other side

Thanks! i will look for a 1" bit flat bottom

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I just glued the end cap ring on with E6000. I broke it while trimming.  Nothing a little zap a gap can't fix. :duim:

 

i let it dry for 24 hours and then placed the welding....  otherwise known as green stuff to hide the gap. 

 

Lch16iF.jpg

 

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are you planning to add the D shape hole later Mike?

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1 hour ago, darthcue said:

are you planning to add the D shape hole later Mike?

Ted I thought about it...  but since it is never seen I opted not to carve it out.  Plus, knowing my luck, I would have messed it up lol.  :D

Edited by Twnbrother

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I wired in the momentary switch.  Works great. 

 

hCM3Nos.jpg

 

I glued the wires down to keep them organized. 

 

NcQS1nk.jpg

 

The wire coming from the momentary switch routed. I would suggest using another color wire than red blue or black so that when you are soldering the rotary switch you do not get confused. 

 

U4CoKIp.jpg

 

 

 

 

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Next I soldered the RBG LED for the front and rear lights.  Bottom of the picture is all the parts.  The top is a completed light.  

 

3pEqbg2.jpg

 

 

I took the barrel from Aaron and cast the camber section.  I did this so I could mount an RBG LED.  

 

v02HvAy.jpg

 

I drilled a hole for the LED and then some channels for the wires. I did two 90 degree bends so the wire would protrude to the front.   I also cut the green wire off. When this is finished I will cover everything with green stuff. 

 

mIvqwe8.jpg

 

KxTsrwd.jpg

 

I then soldered the wires for future connection 

 

sdzUhjX.jpg

 

 

 

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On 8/7/2017 at 6:37 AM, Twnbrother said:

I have been gathering parts and pieces since my last build...  Many thanks to T-Jay for all the help and ideas, to Field Marshal..........WOW!!!!  what can I say... his E-11 is damn near perfect.  Also, to Dday's Pheonix Props kit, this kit is the base for this build.  I just recently figured out how to repost pics.  This time I am using IMGUR since photobuckets change to policy.

 

I started with Field Marhal's M38.  Since this is Aluminum, I used a Zinc Chromate primer.  Once dried I used a base coat of Vallejo Bright Brass.  I also "cast" the number 2 from my 1943 M38.. simply Hobby Lobby mold and resin

 

5O9r3Am.jpg

 

I then over sprayed with a 2:1 Vallejo bright brass and brassy brass.  I think I got the color close.

 

VckTPvs.jpg

 

I then used a super light layer of Vallejo sandy paste.  Once dried I lightly sanded the "sand" with 1000 grit sand paper to give it texture.  Once compete I covered with Vallejo chipping compound.

 

C2tHbOa.jpg

 

I then painted it black and used water to "chip" the paint.  This part takes practice and you can remove too much.  But, the good thing is you can wipe it all off with water and start again.  Once I got it where I liked it, I sealed it with Vallejo metallic varnish. Instead of using an airbrush for the varnish, I brushed it on.  If you look at the original you can see brush strokes.  I brush stoked the long axis...  ooops, it should have been around the circumference.  Ohh well.  I dusted it with some real dirt and then darkened the white lettering.

 

e2Levg8.jpg

 

I used the "red/orange" lens from Tino's kit.  I placed it behind to one that came with the M38... it gives it a pretty neat effect.

 

fxSE7HZ.jpg

 

jE9tWP3.jpg

 

 

Here is a close up of the chipping on the M38 and a side by side shot.

 

agQZCHa.jpg

 

QfTEy3D.jpg

 

ZM2rf7D.jpg?1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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