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Romas' Sterling L2A3 to E11 Conversion


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So a couple months back I bought a surplus L2A3 that was cleaved to smithereens so wholesale. I welded it back together, gave it a black finish and distressed it a bit in anticipation of having a "used" look when it's all said and done. Here are some pics from along the way. I have a M38A2 scope on the way, a resin Hengstler replica and t-tracks, and I'm going to take a stab at scratch making the power cylinders. First the pics:

 

http://1drv.ms/1Tsr72F

 

http://1drv.ms/1PO7K1J

 

http://1drv.ms/1PO7RdA

 

http://1drv.ms/1PO7T58

 

More pics to come, including the distressed finish. A quick question: What's the best way to afix the t-tracks to the barrel?

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Hey Jared, can you get your pics in the thread so we can all see them by using photo bucket or something

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/tutorials/article/48-posting-images-in-threads-2015/

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Much better. Most (and definitely me) are too lazy to open links LOL.

 

Nice work in getting it back together. I put a M38A2 (well, M77C) on my build too. Came up great. Nice cheap alternative to a real M38

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If the cutting of the receiver-tube is a integral part of the legal deactivation - is it allowed to reweld the parts back together?

 

Luckily our guns were not cut and most deac actions are not so much visible, but if we undo one of them, we are with one leg in jail (or pay a very high fine if the judge is in a good mood).

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You're allowed to reattach as long as the gun remains deactivated. I welded the bolt shut and ground down the inner trigger assembly so that the gun could never fire. That said, I would never, ever take this gun in public without an orange plug in the barrel.

 

 

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Edited by dreadnaught33
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Confusing - when reassembly is allowed, why do they cut it?  :blink:

 

Btw, - at the function of this version of a firing mechanism grounding (or welding) the trigger mechanism doesn´t make the gun nonfiring, as long as the bolt can freely slide. If the barrel and bolt are swapped for working parts it still fires, but you can´t stop firing as long as rounds are in the mag.

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It's sort of a grey area-- they are cut so they can be sold.

 

As I said-- I ground down the trigger mechanism AND welded the bolt in place (ie it could never slide nor come apart from the receiver). The barrel is also welded shut at both ends. The springs and other hardware required to function are destroyed.

 

In order to make sure this is all kosher, it is recommended that approval be submitted through the ATF to be classified as a deactivated or replica firearm. They're pretty strict about this. (BTW, this is all for Arkansas-- Different states have different laws, and the Fed also has it's own set of laws).

 

Side note-- you could, if you submit the right paper work and pay the proper fees, and jump through a few more hoops, restore this to a completely to a functioning machine gun legally in several states. 'Merica.

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AND welded the bolt in place (ie it could never slide nor come apart from the receiver).

 

Aaaaah, an island! Now i see it.  ;)

 

A welded bolt is here usually a bolt that has it´s frontend welded, so that the firing pin can´t be used anymore. With your way of welding the bolt and the barrel can´t be exchanged for working parts again.

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What about using Aarons resin muzzel kit. The barrel is closed with resin and it's an exact replica from the sterling. I was concerned about the same legal action. Buying parts online from a gun dealer sounds a little scary. Big brother is always watching and I'm nervous about being added to some list. I was thinking about buying the folding stock from apex though.

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So I received my m38a2 and it was in pretty rough shape. The band top nut had already been removed and the adjustment knob as well. e7228088045d9ce2493abea726f8f841.jpg

 

Decided I wanted a little cleaner profile so I busted out the bondo...

 

fd98d11a00b735e90b5a45226096d26c.jpg6468cc3a2acc32d107b07b41e15243ca.jpg01c41ed33695a95ad1d90a11b1201f49.jpg9eadfb3c216603792b8a790898fe0e06.jpg

 

Overall pretty pleased with the result. Sanding down and alignment check next...

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Got the Tracks cut and bent, but they're gluing up right now. Power cylinders are made. This is how I made it the capacitors:

 

Found these little rivets at Tandy leather when I was there grabbing some snaps for$2. 39b975c09c5095dfecd3fadaca5b0c99.jpg

 

Drilled a small hole and fed a piece of 14 ga copper wire through. 0d14a0bfc5d7003d2e224b85f69e83eb.jpg1e6f3e753eba8f5145f3a01dad26ecd1.jpg

 

What you end up with is this, and I coiled the wires at the ends to make the rivets stay on:

fe8a69d1eed6de8480a158e1d3328e90.jpg

 

I used a product called Magic Sculpt, which I'm a huge fan of. Ended up using a marble sized amount for ALL 3 capacitors:a9bca60fe6713ea8a9613ad9163ae3f5.jpgf12e1cc645ced0143ee95b5452038feb.jpg

 

Roll them back a forth in your fingers and you get little cylinders. Since magic sculpt dries in a resin, it can later be sanded, so no need to be perfect.

39b7aaa1d3c6309b86093f5c47d1e084.jpg

 

Smooth them out a smidge with water and allow to cure for 24 hours. e84e2b7976635be8000943f9f5e8d5c9.jpg

 

Once set up, sand a small bevel on either end. 559af77f820d2903843b835daae90141.jpg

 

 

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Edited by dreadnaught33
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Awesome work!  I have a similarly deactivated Sterling waiting for me to have more time out in the garage.  I also have the same scope, with one of the feet missing the way yours was.
What did you use to rebuild it?

Thanks, and great work!

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I used the resin foot off a placeholder scope I had, epoxied it where the other should go. Used a coarse threaded screw instead of a machine screw to hold it to the bracket.

 

Alternatively you could easily sculpt one using the the magic sculpt listed above. You can drill and sand the stuff once hardened. They sell it for $10/lb on Amazon.

 

 

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