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dreadnaught33

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About dreadnaught33

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Little Rock, AR

Standard Info

  • Name
    Jared
  • 501st Unit
    Diamond Garrison
  1. I used the resin foot off a placeholder scope I had, epoxied it where the other should go. Used a coarse threaded screw instead of a machine screw to hold it to the bracket. Alternatively you could easily sculpt one using the the magic sculpt listed above. You can drill and sand the stuff once hardened. They sell it for $10/lb on Amazon. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. It's HEAVY. Probably in at around 10#. I'll weight it tonight and let you know. This thing must've been a beast to fire on the battlefield back in the day.
  3. Got the Tracks cut and bent, but they're gluing up right now. Power cylinders are made. This is how I made it the capacitors: Found these little rivets at Tandy leather when I was there grabbing some snaps for$2. Drilled a small hole and fed a piece of 14 ga copper wire through. What you end up with is this, and I coiled the wires at the ends to make the rivets stay on: I used a product called Magic Sculpt, which I'm a huge fan of. Ended up using a marble sized amount for ALL 3 capacitors: Roll them back a forth in your fingers and you get little cylinders. Since magic sculpt dries in a resin, it can later be sanded, so no need to be perfect. Smooth them out a smidge with water and allow to cure for 24 hours. Once set up, sand a small bevel on either end. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Got the scope sanded and painted, rail made and placed, put the finishing touches on the resin modded counter. Now just gotta make some power cylinders and mount the Ttracks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. So I received my m38a2 and it was in pretty rough shape. The band top nut had already been removed and the adjustment knob as well. Decided I wanted a little cleaner profile so I busted out the bondo... Overall pretty pleased with the result. Sanding down and alignment check next... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. It's sort of a grey area-- they are cut so they can be sold. As I said-- I ground down the trigger mechanism AND welded the bolt in place (ie it could never slide nor come apart from the receiver). The barrel is also welded shut at both ends. The springs and other hardware required to function are destroyed. In order to make sure this is all kosher, it is recommended that approval be submitted through the ATF to be classified as a deactivated or replica firearm. They're pretty strict about this. (BTW, this is all for Arkansas-- Different states have different laws, and the Fed also has it's own set of laws). Side note-- you could, if you submit the right paper work and pay the proper fees, and jump through a few more hoops, restore this to a completely to a functioning machine gun legally in several states. 'Merica.
  7. You're allowed to reattach as long as the gun remains deactivated. I welded the bolt shut and ground down the inner trigger assembly so that the gun could never fire. That said, I would never, ever take this gun in public without an orange plug in the barrel. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Of course! Sorry-- tried linking from Onedrive... Hope that works. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Amazing. I'm working on my conversion now and I'm inspired. A fantastic job.
  10. So a couple months back I bought a surplus L2A3 that was cleaved to smithereens so wholesale. I welded it back together, gave it a black finish and distressed it a bit in anticipation of having a "used" look when it's all said and done. Here are some pics from along the way. I have a M38A2 scope on the way, a resin Hengstler replica and t-tracks, and I'm going to take a stab at scratch making the power cylinders. First the pics: http://1drv.ms/1Tsr72F http://1drv.ms/1PO7K1J http://1drv.ms/1PO7RdA http://1drv.ms/1PO7T58 More pics to come, including the distressed finish. A quick question: What's the best way to afix the t-tracks to the barrel?
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