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Ukswrath's ANOVOS TK build (stunt)


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In this tutorial I'll be building the ANOVOS TK armor as ANH Stunt. Though the kit appears to have all the necessary components for 501st basic approval I'll be changing a few things in hopes of

1000+ Insane! Not this is some milestone or anything but a big    to all that have either supported, contributed or benefited from this thread.   

If it's alright with Ukswrath, I'm compiling the main information of this build into a searchable .pdf.  I figured that way someone could DL it so they're not tied to the internet when building their

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Regarding the TD:

 

 

Just looked at the CRL and see no mention of this, for any level. In fact I think this is the first time I've seen black screws at all! Is this a nice to have or a genuine L3 clearance issue?

 

I'm planning to use machine screws with a washer and a nyloc nut. You're #6 seems to come out at about 7mm for the head. M3 is 6mm M4 is 8mm, I was thinking the M4 is the better bet?

 

The black paint is not in the CRL, neither is the required "D" ring photo needed at the time of EIB application. The CRL is a work in progress. Small things like the black screw paint are may not be there yet, but it will be a suggested addition for accuracy during your L3 application, if you choose to shoot for it.

 

M4 may work better, you're more than welcome to try. Pan head screws or their size aren't mentioned in the CRL either, but having them installed, and being painted black is again something we strongly suggest be accurate during the L3 application.

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NOTE:  
The goal here folks is to look as accurate AS POSSIBLE  :duim: . With the exception of a couple items not mentioned in the CRL yet you will NOT be held back during approvals  :) for something that is NOT in the CRL. If a FISD Deployment Officer suggests making a specific update to enhance the overall look of your armor it is for your benefit, not mandatory unless statd otherwise. During my build there have and will be areas I will mention L3 required, L3 suggested, or for accuracy only. I know this can be confusing and I apologize. If you have any questions or doubts free to ask questions or seeks others advice. I don't expect anyone to take my word as gospel. 

 

For the record, though not mentioned in the CRL the following items will be expected to be fixed at the Centurion level: 1) The Anovos frown is a common concern with a over or under spray paint job, for L3 "stunt" it will be required to be fixed. This includes removing the over spray (if any) and painting it correctly. In addition you'll need to add paint at the lowest edges of the frown corners (just past the last tooth) where currently there is none.  2) The Hovi screens have also been known to be incorrect. Please ask myself or someone with knowledge regarding this issue to take a look. 3) The waist cloth belt will need to be replaced. It is not meet L3 standards.  

 

If you have any question feel free to ask away.

 

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Thanks. I didn't want to seem rude if that was the way it was seen just one of those little details I've never come across before I guess so wanted clarification. I've got some satin black for the bucket so will use that on them.

 

No problems. When in doubt, ask

 

Screen used TD

 

gallery_12157_51_33329.jpg

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Is there an easy way to clean up excess E6000 after it has dried?

 

After getting one of my forearms assembled and dried, I noticed there was some glue that I didn't get cleaned up. It almost looks like my cover strip must have slid when I clamped it and didn't notice.

Try rubbing your thumb or finger nail until a portion of the dried E-6000 starts to "ball-up" or pull away. Then take the ball and gently start to pull it away. You can also use a piece of scrap abs to help remove any excess by the cover strip.

If you're having problems grabbing the balled E-6000 you can use tweezers or micro pliers but be careful as the metal tools could potentially scratch your armor - hope that helps

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Is there an easy way to clean up excess E6000 after it has dried?

 

After getting one of my forearms assembled and dried, I noticed there was some glue that I didn't get cleaned up.  It almost looks like my cover strip must have slid  when I clamped it and didn't notice.

 

Since I polish my armor later I use a piece of scrap cover strip material to remove the glue

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Sorry about not getting back to you earlier. There was a lot of debate about shins recently :P Now that it's sorted, here's the picture of my forearm:

 

With my arm flexed, what would you recommend for making the piece more comfortable and not pinched so much between my elbow and hand?

 

And to echo recent sentiment, you've my sincere thanks for your guide. It is still a valuable asset for me until I can (finally) get to an armor party next weekend :)

 

To create some space my first suggestion would be, if you haven't done so already is make sure all the return edge material is off the wrist side. Once that is done then trim the elbow side.

 

20160220_1145481.jpg

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Hey Brian to answer your question there is to be little to no gap between sections, assemble the armor with this in mind. If you are tall or have a long torso you'll have to get a little creative. For example, the trooper I'm building this armor for is 6'1", I had to give the back upper sections a hot water bath so that it followed the contour of his body instead of making a sharp bend as it currently does. This isn't mentioned yet because it part of the fitment alteration I have yet to talk about.

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how much return edge is there on the shoulderbells how do you know you are good or have to much?

 

There is no return edge requirement, you can remove it if you like. Return edge is there to simulate thickness. If you're thick enough then you don't need it.  The shoulder bells should be snug with the biceps and with the upper chest plate to back plate cover strip.

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Thanks Tony - I'll wait on the torso until I see what you did with the hot water bath.  I'm 5'11" and was surprised last night when I taped everything up and had that gap.  Looking at the back piece I couldn't figure out how to get it to fit since it has that sharp curve in it

 

Yea this back plate is really something else. Hopefully Anovos is reading this and already looking to make modifications. Anyone under 5'10" or less, 165lbs with a 34" or less waist line this armor might fit you straight out of the box. If you're above those specs, creativity will be required. 

 

 

Hi Bremark,

 

I have the same problem with the back section having a huge gap between it and the kidney( might be that Im 6foot 3).

Tony I'm not sure if I understand the water bath correct and considering the gap would it make a huge difference? Would it be worth considering a vertical shim here, if that's acceptable? Also does anyone know any good place to get sheets of Abs in France or the Uk as I've used a lot of my cut offs due to my size plus trial and error( so many errors but so much fun)

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

6'3" is a pretty tall order for any armor manufacture. I would try to take some of the tight curve out of the upper shoulders first. Let post the hot water bath solution I gave mine. Give me a few minutes.  

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12c. Upper Back Plate connection point modification

 

This small segment is for those having an issue with the back plate design directly effecting how it fits on taller individuals. In a nut shell I'll be giving the upper connecting strap area a hot water bath to help tone down the sharp angle. This is a suggested fix only. You are not required to perform this modification, nor does it have any bearing on any approvals. Do so at your own risk.

 

Back plate out of the box, after trimming.

 

IMG_6939.jpg

 

 

First thing you want to do is remove a good majority of the return edge at this corner either blending it into the remaining return edge below or removing some of that as well. I found out the hard way, if you don't will crack even when softened up.

 

IMG_6940b.jpg

 

 

Bring some water to a boil and keep it around 197F. While wearing protective gloves submerge the corner for around 30 seconds. 

 

IMG_6943.jpg

 

 

Remove from water and gently but firmly press onto a flat surface

 

IMG_6945.jpg

 

 

After reshaping the right side

 

IMG_6941b.jpg

 

 

Right side view after alteration. Left side is still in its original position.

IMG_6942.jpg

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7f. Thigh Ammo Pack installation

 

In this section I'll be installing the thigh ammo pack. The thigh ammo pack is located on the right thigh for those who do not know this. By this time your ammo pack should be trimmed and ready to install except for creating the mounting hole. I'll be using Cap rivets to mount the belt to the thigh. 

 

Reference images

gallery_12157_59_38956.jpggallery_12157_59_273.jpggallery_12157_59_55140%201.jpg

 

 

Ammo pack after trimming

IMG_7184.jpg

 

 

Starting with the left side of the thigh lower return edge, measure approximately 1/4" from the back left corner forward. Note: The goal here is to center the ammo pack rear edges on the thigh. You should have an equal distance between the left and right rear corners of the thigh and the ammo pack. The front of the ammo belt will not be centered with the cover which is normal.

 

IMG_7186b.jpg

 

 

Drill 1/8" holes at the predetermined location set by Anovos

IMG_7185.jpg

 

 

Install cap rivet to secure the left side ammo pack to the left side of the thigh

Inside view

IMG_7188.jpg

 

 

Outer view

IMG_7202.jpg

 

 

Wrap ammo pack around the front of the thigh. Mark the thigh through the ammo pack mounting hole. Drill the mounting hole in thigh then secure the right side with a cap rivet.

 

Inside view

IMG_7190.jpg

 

 

Outer

IMG_7201.jpg

 

 

Paint. Using white paint, paint the outer rivet heads

IMG_7207.jpgIMG_7206.jpg 

 

 

Final note, the ammo pack can be straight or angled upward a bit. Either way is accepted at all levels of approval. You might also want to add a dab of E6000 between the thigh and ammo pack as well to help prevent the ammo pack from falling down over time. 

 

Done! 

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Strapping cont...

 

6b. Bicep to Forearm strapping

 

In this section I'll be installing the 2" wide black elastic strap that secures the the bicep to the forearm.  Note: This is a accuracy component only. It is not needed nor required for any level of approval however, the strap is designed to hold the forearm near the elbow and prevent it from falling down around the wrist, which during Centurion approvals will be part of the overall appearance that is looked at. The 2" elastic was part of the Anovos supplied strap connections but will be used for this area. If you plan on using the Anovos supplied straps for the interior strapping you will want to purchase extra elastic.

 

Reference images

gallery_12157_59_6157.jpggallery_12157_59_233480.jpg

 

 

The elastic resides inside the armor in this general location

 

gallery_12157_59_74335b_2.jpg

 

 

 Anovos strapping. Remove velcro ends

 

IMG_6875.jpgIMG_6876.jpg

 

 

Starting with the bicep. On both arms add glue and secure a 2" section of the strap to the bicep inner half, just to the inside of the front cover strip. 

 

Left arm

IMG_7172.jpg

IMG_7171.jpg

IMG_7173.jpg

 

 

Right arm

 

IMG_7179.jpg

 

 

Let dry or proceed.

 

​Left arm. Install glue inside forearm corresponding with the left bicep placement. Install elastic leaving a gap approximately 1/4"+ between the forearm and bicep. If you have long arms you might want to add a little more space between the two but not too much. Secure elastic for drying.

 

IMG_7174.jpgIMG_7175.jpg

IMG_7178.jpg  

IMG_7177.jpg

 

Right arm

 

IMG_7180.jpgIMG_7181.jpgIMG_7183.jpg

 

 

Let dry.

 

Once dry you can come back and paint the elastic inside the armor white to match the screen accurate versions shown above. 

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7g. Thigh Support System (part 1)

 

In this section I'll be installing the thigh support system consisting of 3" wide x 12" black elastic (not supplied in the Anovos kit). The elastic is glued directly to the armor and the opposite end will loop around a waist belt and sewn.  Note: Some sort of suspension system is required, how or what you choose to use is not.

 

Part 1 will consist of measure and gluing the elastic to the armor.

Part 2 will be the following the final fitment afterwards the ends are sewn.

 

Reference image

 

gallery_12157_59_27212%201.jpg

 

 

Measure and cut elastic. Prepare thigh by adding glue to a 4" x 3" section of armor directly behind the front cover strip. 

 

IMG_6889.jpg

 

 

Test fit

 

IMG_6892.jpg

 

 

Preparation

IMG_7193.jpg

 

 

Add glue

 

IMG_7194.jpg

IMG_7197.jpg

 

Secure

 

IMG_7195.jpgIMG_7196.jpg

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That's the funny thing, there are plenty of build threads where you can go to learn how to build a kit super accurate. But for some reason, this might be the first one newbies are actually reading.

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Maybe the Anovos kits are seen as 'official' by many people? Having that Disney/Lucasfilm license (they have that right?) would certainly be a draw card. If I could acquire one easily here down under I would seriously consider it.

Plus, Tony, your build threads are just so damn professional and informative!

But then again I'm also just a noob so I wouldn't know any better.

 

Thanks for the kudos brother. Just glad this helps

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6c. Chest to Back strapping assembly

 

In this section I'll finish illustrating how to assemble and install the Chest to Back plate straps. The left shoulder strap will be permanently glued to the chest and back plate, the right strap will be glued to the back plate but uses a "S" snap to secute it to the chest plate as seen in the movie armor.

 

Reference pics

 

Chest (glued on the left side, male "S" snap on the right)

gallery_12157_59_8886-cropz.jpg  

 

Back

gallery_12157_59_25660-cropb.jpg

 

Back to chest connection (chest side, female "S" snap)

gallery_12157_59_56423b-cropbc.jpg

 

 

In a previous post we took 2" white elastic and sewn in snaps used to secure the shoulder bell connection. Next I'll install the "S" popper snap in the right front elastic.

 

Note: By now you should have made a fitment check to determine how your chest and back plate will sit on your body. measured Once you have that figured out you'll take the elastic and center the connecting snap over your shoulder, mark elastic where it meets the armor. Don't bother trying to center the elastic itself most likely your chest and back plates will not be perfectly centered with your body.

 

 

(Image incoming) 

 

First we'll need the loop and sew approximately 3/4" at the end of the strap. Note: The looped side goes toward your body. 

Afterwards sew the end.

 

IMG_7213.jpg

IMG_7214.jpga57c7fa1-b6c0-4bbc-9c0c-ab41a2465c5b.jpg

 

 

Next center and punch a 1/8" hole for the snap

IMG_7218.jpgIMG_7219.jpg

 

 

Install snap. 

IMG_7221.jpgIMG_7222.jpgIMG_7224.jpg

IMG_7223.jpg

 

 

 

Glue elastic to back plate. Apply glue to armor and spread it out evenly. Apply clamp and let dry.

 

A couple notes: If you've offset your shoulder snap make sure it's positioned inward. After you've clamped your strap you still have time to shift it around if need be, make sure it is centered with the chest plate connection locations.

 

IMG_7167.jpgIMG_7168.jpgIMG_7169_1.jpgIMG_7170_1.jpg

 

 

Let dry.

 

While the back straps are drying let's install the chest to strap snap mount. I'll be using 1mm cover strip material (not supplied by Anovos) to mount the male snap.

 

First measure the location for the mount. My measurements were 1-7/8"L x 1-1/4"W. Measure and cut material. Check mounting location.

IMG_7225.jpgIMG_7226.jpg

IMG_7230.jpg

 

 

Center and drill 1/8" hole in material

IMG_7232.jpg

 

 

Mount male "S" snap

IMG_7233.jpgIMG_7235.jpgIMG_7236.jpgIMG_7237.jpg

 

 

Check assembly for proper operation

IMG_7238.jpg

 

 

Apply glue and clamp in position. Note: Remember to check male snap location corresponds with elastic to chest plate position. I realized I was 1/2" off and had reposition the mount.

 

IMG_7240.jpg 

IMG_7241.jpgIMG_7243.jpg

 

 

Let dry.

 

After drying install left strap to chest plate

IMG_7244.jpgIMG_7246.jpg

 

 

Finished pics incoming

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Apologies if this was answered, but what size "s" popper snaps are you using and are they the same size as the ones you used for the belt? I checked a local Joann and found a box with different sizes

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Yes, 15mm

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YES! also what size are the line 24 snaps as in dia. in inches?? Line 24 is a type snd these come on different sizes. And finally, in the elastic knit, woven, or what?

Sorry, but I went to several craft and hardware stores and I am really confused on what materials and sizes are needed for this strapping and snap system.

Thanks so much in advance for the clarification.

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Line 24 is a type and a size. Line 20 is the same type, smaller size.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Tandy-Leather-Nickel-Plated-1263-02/dp/B00O1GTVMW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1456888462&sr=8-1&keywords=Tandy+line+24+snaps

 

Other company's "Line 24" snaps may be different size from the recommended Tandy snaps (which I do not believe JoAnn's carries)

 

Also see page 16 of the March flyer: http://www.tandyleather.com/en/eflyer/1603rt-usa

Edited by kman
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I don't believe this has been asked (if so, please forgive me...)  The return edges we are mounting the strapping brackets to (ab plate, chest, posterior, back and kidney) are angled outward to some degree.  Should we be attempting to flatten them so they're more perpendicular to the piece?  I assume the screws will show more if we don't.... 

 

Nope, leave them as they are. Paint the screw heads  ;)

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How much space should there be around your wrist? I've heard sticking some foam padding in the forearm would help even it out but I still feel like there's too much space

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Hey Hector, it will feel loose and yes adding foam to take up any slack is ok and perfectly acceptable

 

If I make it any smaller I won't be able to get my hand through

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Don't make it any smaller then. Do you have a pic?

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Just curious, what is wrong with the cloth itself? The cloth itself seems fine to me. The main problem (to my eyes) is that it's simply inadequately reinforced. While it's not a small amount of effort, I would think removing all snaps and rivets (just drill them out), opening the entire top seam, and adding some stiffening inside (quilting mesh, mostly likely), and closing it back up would suffice, and avoid having to replace the entire thing.

 

I already replaced mine with the TKittell belt, so this is merely a question of academic curiosity for me. :)

 

Besides the belt bunching up, the hole patching is not considered adequate. Unfortunately not everyone has the skills to make the proper repairs needed for approval. Every approval will still be a case by case basis, if we feel the modification to the belt are adequate there shouldn't be a problem however, if they're not then you may be asked to replace the belt. This decision did not come lightly however, we (the staff) felt the decision was in the best interest of the Centurion level of accuracy. 

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  • ukswrath changed the title to Uswrath's ANOVOS TK build (stunt)

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