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Ukswrath's ANOVOS TK build (stunt)


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In this tutorial I'll be building the ANOVOS TK armor as ANH Stunt.

Though the kit appears to have all the necessary components for 501st basic approval I'll be changing a few things in hopes of making it Centurion (L3) level acceptable.

Materials, Strapping & Other used in this build will be highlighted in BLUE


Areas that will be changed: NOTE: These changes are NOT required for 501st basic approval
A. The kit includes velcro and snaps for the internal strapping which I'll be switching out for brackets and straps provided by Mr. No Stripes.
My choice to use brackets is just a matter of preference.

Note: The included velcro and snaps appear to be Centurion acceptable except for the chest to back connections which are required to be white. 

B. The kit includes black elastic for the chest to back connection which I'll be switching out for white, a Centurion requirement.
C. The kit includes velcro to connect the shoulder bell strap to the chest to back strap. I'll be using a Dritz #10 sew in snap. Accuracy update but NOT a Centurion requirement
D. The kit includes philips head screws for the TD brackets which I'll be replacing with slotted pan head screws, Accuracy update but NOT a Centurion requirement but recommended
E. The kit includes velcro for the rear calf connection which I'll be replacing with the elastic and bra hooks set up, Accuracy update but NOT a Centurion requirement
F. The kit includes ABS hand guards which will be switched out for Latex style, a Centurion requirement

G. Waist belt accuracy modifications - Remove upper holster mounting screws, Repair holes to fabric, Replace line 24 snaps with "Popper" snaps, Correct elastic to drop box connection, Glue drop box elastic to belt.
I'm sure this list will build, stay tuned


Exacto knives, large & small
Steel straight ruler (metric)
Dremel with sanding wheel or sand paper. Small carbide bit for helmet teeth or small file.
3M scotch brite pad (any color, gradient)
5/32" & 1/8" drill bits
Screwdriver (blade)
Spring clamps (set or 12 or more in various sizes)
Earth magnets 1/2" x 1/8" (12.7mm x 3.1mm), 20 to 40 magnets
Painters tape

PPE (Personal Protective Equipment): I can't stress enough how important it is to wear PPE, especially when working with some of the tools listed above. Wear it!
Safety glasses - Hardware store
Cut resistant gloves - Hardware store
1/2 Respirator. Sanding releases small carcinogens into the air. Protect your lungs. - Hardware store or

E6000 - two to three+ 2oz tubes, or two+ 3oz tubes
Zap-A-Gap & Zip Kicker
Elastic (Chest to Back plate) - White 2" x 2' in length recommended) 

Elastic (Drop Boxes) - White 3/4" x 20" 

Elastic (Bells to Shoulder Strapping) - Black 1" x 12", ANOVOS supplied

Elastic (Bicep to Bicep around arm) - Black 1" x 20"

Elastic (Bicep to Forearm) - Black, 2" x 6", ANOVOS supplied

Elastic (Thigh to waist belt) - Black, 3" x 24"

Elastic (Kidney to Ab right side) - Black, 1" x 8"

Elastic (Posterior to Cod) - Black, 1" x 12"

Nylon Webbing (Kidney to Ab, left side 6 rivets) - 1" x 6", ANOVOS supplied

Single cap rivets (Waist belt drop boxes and thigh ammo belt) 7.4mm or 5/16"




Gloss White: Testers
Gloss black: Humbrol #21 Testors # 1747
Gray (Ab plate), Humbrol #5 Testors # 1138 -
French Blue (Ab plate & Tube stripes), Humbrol #14 Testors # 2715 - http://www.humbrol.com/us-en/shop/paints/enamel-paints/14-french-blue-gloss-14ml-enamel-paint.html

Gunship Grey (TD tube), Testor #1923 (spray paint) NOTE: Painting the TD tube is NOT required for any level of approval 


Internal Strapping:
A. ANOVOS supplied
B. Internal Strapping Brackets -
Alternative lock nuts to replace the nuts that come with the bracket kit - 

C. Snaps: 

1) Ab - "S" snaps "poppers" (Used on the following locations: Ab to belt, Ab to Kidney right side, Cod to Posterior, Shoulder to Back plate strapping right/front) 15mm, (bag of 15 is the smallest)- http://www.ebay.com/...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
2) Ab - "S" Snap die punch and set tool 15-17mm, (1x) - http://www.ebay.com/...=item5413a405e2
NOTE: For the "S" snaps and set tool kit you may need to contact the seller who is in the UK and have him set up a auction with US shipping. The original sales did not have a ship to US option at the time I purchased the items.
3) Thigh Ammo Belt - Single Cap Rivets - 7.4mm or 5/16", Ebay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/Solid-brass-nickel-plated-single-cap-rapid-rivets-7-mm-cap-100-pair/222251554883?hash=item33bf399843:g:zTsAAOSwLnBX2zzO:sc:USPSPriorityFlatRateEnvelope!94513!US!-1

4) Thigh Ammo Belt - Double Cap rivet tool (1x) - http://www.ebay.com/...=item463922315d, or Hobby/Craft store
5) Ab/Kidney - Split rivets (bag) - ANOVOS supplied
7) Inner strapping - Line 24 snaps, nickle, 100ct (recommended), Tandy -
https://www.tandylea...ts/1263-12.aspx. Fasnap - http://fasteners.fas...nap-fasteners?
7a) Inner strapping (canon brackets) Not illustrated in this build. For informational purposes only - http://www.whitearmo...-now-available/
8) Shoulder to Bicep - Dritz Sew in Snaps, Nickle, Size #10 -http://www.amazon.co...YH1DNAAPPP1R3H1

9) COD split rivet - ANOVOS supplied


D. Calf closure

1) Elastichttp://www.amazon.com/Dritz-9506W-Non-Roll-Elastic-4-Inch/dp/B004ALO9CK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1454439839&sr=8-2&keywords=3%2F4%22+white+elastic

2) Bra hookshttp://www.amazon.com/Dritz-Hooks-Eyes-Nickel-Size/dp/B005S7FA28/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1454440102&sr=8-10&keywords=dritz+bra+hooks

3) Velcro - ANOVOS supplied  


Thigh Garter belt -
Gloves (ANOVOS supplied) or - 

Rubber hand guards (Joseph) - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35702-latex-hand-guards-for-centurion-level-anh/  
Boots - Totally killer Boots - http://www.tkboots.com/, Imperial Boots - http://www.imperialboots.com/
Undersuit (ANOVOS supplied) or - ShirtPant

Waist Belt - ANOVOS modified 

Waist Belt other - Kittle's belts) - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19803-fs-white-canvas-belts/


ANOVOS assembly instructions (if anyone wants them) - https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0346/5761/files/SWTROOPER001-KIT_V1.pdf?18334450603693831912


UKS Assembly instructions - PDF - https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-d8yBFyd0CgWGtmSWx6ZHRjbFE/view


Sections, Navigation & Check List:
1. Forearms:

1a. Forearm trimming

1b. Forearms Pre- assembly

1c. Assembly (front)

1d. Assembly cont (rear)


2. Biceps:

2a. Bicep trimming righ

2b. Bicep trimming left

2c. Bicep Pre-assembly

2d. Assembly


3. Calves/Shins (lower leg):

3a. Shins trimming left & right 

3b. Shin Sniper Knee trimming

3c. Shin Pre-assembly

3d. Assembly (front)

3e. Sniper knee Pre-assembly

3f. Rear Closure (Straps and Bra hooks)

3g. Sniper knee, rear cover strip and calf closure elastic system installation

4. Ab:

4a Ab trimming

4b. Ab Button Panel trimming

4c. Ab Button Pre-assembly

4d. Ab & Kidney Split Rivet Pre-assembly

4e. Ab Waist Belt Mount assembly

4f. Ab Right side rivet assembly

4g. Ab Cod Rivet Pre-assembly

4h. Ab Button plates - Painting and Installation


5. Posterior:

5a. Posterior trimming

5b. Posterior rivet assembly

5b. Posterior to Cod connecting strap assembly - Under "Strapping" section 

5c. Assembly - Under "Strapping" section

6. Strapping:

6a. Bracket System Pre-assembly

6b. Bicep to Forearm strapping

6c. Chest to Back strapping assembly

6d. Ab to Kidney left side strapping

6e. Ab to kidney Right side strapping

6f. Posterior to Cod

6g. Bracket System final assembly

6h. Bracket system support pads

7g. Thigh Support System (part 1)

7h. Thigh Support System (part 2)


7. Thighs:

7a. Thighs trimming left & right

7b. Thigh Ammo Pack trimming 

7c. Thigh Pre-assembly

7d. Assembly (front)

7e. Assembly (rear)

7f. Thigh Ammo Pack installation

7g. Thigh Support System (part 1)

7h. Thigh Support System (part 2)


8. Chest and Shoulders:

8a. Chest trimming

8b. Chest Shoulder Covers trimming

8c. Chest strap to Shoulder Bell connection (Shoulder side)

8d. (6c) Chest to Back strapping assembly

8e. Shoulder Cover assembly

8f. Shoulder Cover Retaining Strap


9. Shoulder Bells:

9a. Shoulder Bell trimming

9b. Chest strap to Shoulder Bell connection (Bell side).

9c. Shoulder Bell strap installation cont.  


10. Thermal Detonator: 

10a. Pre-assembly

10b. Paint (not required)

10c. Assembly Final

11. Waist Belt: 3/3/16 NOTE: New information regarding the Anovos waist belt, PLEASE READ. The official word is the waist belt is accepted at the EIB (L2) with the previously mention belt modifications however, it is NOT acceptable at Centurion (L3) regardless of the modifications. The cloth portion of the belt assembly will need to be replaced for Centurion approval. You can either skip the following belt modification tutorial and replace the cloth portion of the belt all together, or continue on if EIB is as far as you plan on going. A tutorial on how to change out the cloth portion of the belt is in the works.

11a. Waist belt EIB (ONLY) Accuracy update

11b. Waist belt Centurion Update


12. Back Plate:

12a. Back plate trimming

12b. Assembly - Refer to "Bracket system final assembly"

12c. Upper connection point modification

13. Kidney:

13a. Kidney trimming

13b. Kidney to Ab right side connecting strap - Refer to "Strapping" "Ab to kidney strapping right side"

13c. Kidney to Ab left side connection strapping - Refer to "Strapping" Ab to kidney strapping left side"

13d. Assembly - Refer to Bracket System Final Assembly"


14. Hand Guards:

14a Hand Guard trimming

14b. Hand Guard, Centurion Update

15. Helmet Accuracy modifications:

15a. Helmet Modifications for Centurion and accuracy (Part 1)

15b. Helmet Modifications for Centurion and Accuracy (part 2)

15c. Hovi Tip Mod


16. Fitment Alterations (if any): N/A

17. Final Pictures:

17a. 501st Submission and completed armor pictures


18. Additional information:

18a. Making and install support pads for Mr. NoStripes bracket system (Not a requirement)


19. Helmet Electronics:

19a. Installation of Ukswrath's Hovi Audio system, SHA (hearing assist) and Cooling system 

Out of the Box

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Let's begin by trimming. 


Note: There's a thin protective coating on the outside of the armor. I suggest leaving it on as you build. This will help prevent unwanted stains and scratches to your armor from glues or other HOWEVER, once you begin building (installing cover strips) remove or at least peel back and tape exposing the armor areas you'll glue to. Gluing directly to the protective coating will lead to joint failure.


1a. Forearms


Armor sections should have built in cut lines or indentations. Some areas like the forearms may have two cut lines, this is most likely for different sized troopers. Perform a fitment test measuring your arms to know which area to cut at. When in doubt cut the area that will give you the most room, you can always trim more later if needed. 


1. Using an Exacto knife or scissors cut along the indent lines.


Note: If using a Exacto knife you'll be using a score and snap technique. This is where you cut the material without slicing all the way through. Afterwards snap off the trimmed section. You may encounter areas where the score and snap technique will NOT work due to the lack of material thickness. In this case you may find it easier to just cut completely through. Either way be careful to not tear the material.




NOTE: The inner forearm section appears to have two separate cut lines on one side I believe giving the builder the opportunity for two forearm sizes. It's the only reason I can explain for having two lines.  






Pieces #17 & #19 are the right forearm




#16 & #18 are the left forearm







To be cont...

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Hey Tony I just posted this on the Anovos Kit Building facebook thread.  I hope you don't mind this.  And I hope that none of the Detachment staff mind as well.  If the the staff feels it is not my place then i will take it down.  But I just feel this would be a great thread to try and steer some of these new members. 


Hi everyone. I first would like to congratulate you all on your purchase of the Anovos armor. This is a very exciting time for all of you as you are starting to see these brown boxes arrive on your door steps. I am a member of the 501st and a member of the Empire City Garrison. I am also an active member over at the First imperial Stormtrooper Detachment. I see here that many of you have started a great support group here on facebook and that is a great start. I am asking that for those of you who have not done so already, that you all consider joining the stormtrooper detachment as there is a large group of very talented guys and gals waiting to assist members who are aspiring to join the 501st as stormtroopers. The website is www.whitearmor.net. There is a huge bank of excellent build threads as well as an abundance of great threads for building certain aspects of the armor. Specifically speaking there is a new thread that has popped up on building the Anovos armor by ukswrath (Tony) http://www.whitearmor.net/…/35086-ukswraths-anovos-tk-build/ Tony is very talented and is going to provide an excellent resource for building a set of this armor. Tony is also one of the "Deployment Officers" on FISD who is responsible for certifying members in the Expert Infantry and Centurion tiers. So who would be better to see a build thread from then him? So everyone enjoy your time building your armor. It is a very satisfying experience. Good Luck!

Edited by starsaber25
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Trimming cont...


2a. Biceps


Trimming the biceps appear to be simple. Following the line will allow for a pretty large bicep. I may find myself trimming it down even more after some trial fitting.


Note: I believe there's a limb armor number pattern here. The odd numbers appear to be right side, even numbers are left. Not that his matters but maybe worth mentioning none the less.


#13 & #15 right side




Cut along the line...








to be cont...

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If I may, get yourself some acetone,keep your scraps. You may wind up using some needle files to open that tear up a little bit, covering the front with painter's tape to keep the outside of the tear smoothly aligned with the rest of the outside, and fill it from the inside with ABS paste. Then, you can easily wet sand it down to smooth again, and use Novus 1,2,3 polish system to bring the shine back to it. Nothing to lose sleep over, Bryan. ;)

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10. Thermal Detonator (Pre-trimmed by ANOVOS. Will address minor trimming and assembly later in the build)

11. Waist Belt (Assembled by ANOVOS. Will address accuracy update assembly later in the build)


12a. Back Plate





to be cont...

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13a. Kidney



This section was a little tricky. Areas where the cut lines were supposed to be appeared melted or incomplete. Not a huge deal because a good amount of side return edge will be removed anyways. This is one of the sections mentioned earlier regarding material tear, be careful when cutting.


Note: The Kidney has a good size curvature on the left side, this is normal (thanks Paul). Also, the 22mm may be completely different in sizes between left and right sides, this is also normal.




With my armor I couldn't even see the side cut lines as the excess was covering it. Using a pair of scissors I removed the excess before continuing to trim.




Cut lines on the melted side




Cuts completed




Heavy bend on the left compared to the right side is normal




Smaller 22mm notch




to be cont...

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4b. AB cont... Buttons



Green lines are cut lines














Edges are then squared off. NOTE: Rounded corners or return edges are not recommended at basic, and are NOT allowed at the higher levels of approval.


In this build thread the edges were squared just before painting which I illustrated at a later date however, to eliminate confusion I'm posting it here as well. Thanks for the recommendation Zerop1ng, troopers helping troopers :salute:






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14a. Hand Guards



Note: The plastic hand guards are accepted at Basic and EIB levels but will need to be replaced with the flexible version for Centurion.



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On 1/27/2016 at 4:02 AM, The5thHorseman said:

For the abdomen buttons, you would be better to trim these out directly from the inside of the pull. You don't want any return here, just flat plates.

And the amount of return edge you left on the bottom of your chest plate is quite small. Fitting the brackets will be harder than what it would have been with more material left.


About time you showed up I was beginning to wonder if you were lost in the armory department :D 


Like Germain has mentioned the button plates will have no return edge, this is just the rough cut. I wanted to illustrate that though there's a pre-marked cut line made by ANOVOS about 1/4" below the face, you actually want to cut it much closer to the face itself as shown.


The lower chest return edge is a bit on the thin side but I'd planned to cut it this way. My goal was to reinforce the area underneath the bracket anyways and I personally dislike the heavy return edge look. Thanks for the advice though. For the novices, if you choose to use the bracket system as I've done, since you may not know what to expect with your armor give yourself some extra return edge material as Germain has suggested, I recommend an additional 1/8" + outside of the ANOVOS pre marked cut line.

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Pre Assembly


If you have any questions along the way ask. Nothing is worse than making a huge mistake because of pride. Everyone has a different skill level so take your time and enjoy the journey, it's not a race. 


"Measure twice, cut once" 



1b. Forearms 


In this section I'll be making fitment measurements and further trimming of the armor at the butt connection locations prior to final assembly. The butt connection is the location where the two halves of the armor come together. Later on and a strip pf plastic (cover strip) will be glued in place connecting the two.


Starting with the left forearm (#16 outer section, #18 inner section) front butt and strip section.


Note: You should have been supplied with three different cover strip widths, 15mm are for the arms (front and back), 20mm are for the front of the legs (thigh and shin) and rear of the thigh, and finally 25mm for the rear calf.



When I refer to a section as upper or lower visualize yourself standing, there's an upper or lower side to everything. When I refer to front and back well, you get the point  ;).


From time to time I will make reference to something called a return edge. The return edge is where the plastic makes a heavy or very sharp turn from a relatively flat or contoured area. Return edges not a requirement. Most, but not all butt connections locations have a heavy or minor return edge. Areas like this will be needed to perform a task. Other return edges, like at the upper and lower sections of the forearm for example, where the plastic curves towards your skin, give the armor the look of thickness. Return edges may be removed to increase the space between your body and the armor.


Continuing on.. The front forearm butt connection was pretty close to the width of where it needed to be after the initial trimming which is around 15mm. I made a fitment check by wrapping the armor around my arm and holding it together with painter's tape. After the fitment I trimmed the armor a bit more using a exacto knife, and later fine tuned it with my belt sander. The area doesn't have to be perfect, the cover strip will hide most imperfections however, the neater the better. After trimming I rechecked the butt connection location.


Important notes: It is encouraged you put on your under armor before taking any fitment measurements so that they'll be more accurate. Whether you have you under armor or not give yourself a minimum 1/2" of clearance between your body and the armor. If you don't have a 1/2", as long as it's close you still should be ok. If you have "0" clearance you might want to try removing the upper return edge material  (the areas closest to your elbow), the lower will be completely removed for L3 approval anyways. If you've removed the upper return edge material and it's still to tight you may have to consider adding shims. Everyone's body structure is different. Your arms as well as other body parts may be larger or smaller than anyone else. To be perfectly clear, return edges are NOT required anywhere, but some areas can really benefit from them. If you want to go Centurion (L3) there must be NO return edge on the wrist or (lower shin) ankle


Another note: When trimming inner and outer butt connection sides of a section it is a good rule to align the upper edges of the armor first as illustrated here.


In this particular section (forearms) if you have to remove any return edge material at the upper/lower ends of the armor, or add shims, do it now before you make any butt connection location cuts. The goal here is to have the front of the armor as accurate as possible. using the rear as the area to add any shims if needed.


Note: The procedure just described will be a common throughout the build. Everyone's skill set is different, you can continue to follow along or skip ahead at any time.


A. Fitment check





B. Checking the front return edge butt connection measurements. Ready for assembly




C. If the armor fits you comfortably measure the outer circumference of the forearm armor. Using fabric tape measure the upper, middle and lower sections. These measurements will be used to assist in setting up the right forearm, which by the way is shaped slightly different then the left.











Left forearm, rear butt connection area. Ready for assembly





D. Right side (sections #17 outer & #19 inner). The front butt connection on the right arm is considerably different than the left arm. Trimming will require a slightly different approach.

I suggest you do a fitment check first to ensure you have enough room to make the butt connection area 15mm. If you have larger forearms you may have to go a bit wider in the front butt connection area.


Result of my fitment, I had plenty of room to make the required cuts at the front butt connection location. With the two haves side by side I measured the area to be cut.





E. using a steel ruler as a straight edge cut along the ruler (green line)





F. Remove the cut section







After cutting both inner and outer sides this was my result. Right forearm, front butt connection location ready for assembly




G. As with the left side, measure the right. Top, middle and right. Once you have the measurements you can make any cuts at the rear butt strip connection (if needed)





If you notice by my measurements I needed to take off approximately 1/2" to 1/8" from top to bottom.


Measured and marked the armor then cut off the excess.




Rechecked fitment. Right forearm is now ready to be assembled.


to be cont...

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Pre Assembly cont...


2c. Biceps 


So as with the forearms I installed the armor and took a fitment measurement. In my case my bicep was just around 13.5in (I know, really bug guy). I just so happen to have a 14.5" diameter paint can container lying around in my garage. 


Starting with the right bicep (armor sections #13 & #15), I simply installed the container between the two halves and confirmed the measurements that were on my arm. Note: You don't have to use paint can technique it just makes it easier when no one is around to help.  





If you look closely you'll notice the rear butt connection at the rear of the armor is wider than the front. 





2b. After marking the over lap between the two halves I decided to take a little more off the back section to even it up with the front. 





Dividing the measurements.





2c. Mark and trim as necessary.







2d. Left  bicep (sections #12 & #14). Similar to the right side.


Check overlap measurements.




2e. Divide the width of area needed to remove between the two sides.




2f. Trim excess.










to be cont...

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Many many thanks for this thorough thread. I am about to get my Anovos suit and reading this is prepping me! You are huge help to many.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


My pleasure


As a newcomer to to all of this, the information in this thread has been nothing short of amazing. Thank you so much for all the knowledge and insight which will definitely be my guide for my build as soon as I start. I got the BBB a few days ago and I'm waiting on a friend who just received his as well so we can build together. Thanks again.


Thank you and your welcome


I'm curious what you guys think about using something like RS Props's 'Accurate Assembly Bundle' to finish the kit.

Currently out of stock over there (I'm guessing quite a few folks have had this idea), and wondering if it's really worth it...


Yea, what Shaun said  ;)


I got one as soon as my kit came in. RS has a pretty great reputation for accuracy and getting all the hardware at one time from one place (belt, gloves, and latex hand guards included!) is pretty awesome. You'll end up paying a bit more and the wait will be a few weeks, but I've got trimming and helmet mods to work on anyway. Not to mention the E-11. Yeesh!




Thanks for your input Shaun


First of all, I cannot thank ukswrath :salute: enough for this thread, as well as all of the other experienced build contributors here on FISD !

Some suggestion I received from my local Garrison, was to not cut the pieces yet until I was at a local armor party, to insure that everything could be cut to fit.

Any suggestions on this? I am average to husky build, but not necessarily large. I can understand that if you have, lets say, enormous Hulk Hogan biceps, that you may need extra allowances.

So, do any of you experience armor builders recommend taking circumference measurements prior to trimming, just to make sure there is enough overlap for closures?

Regardless, I am going to do this, just to insure a truly custom fit and comfort of wear (not to mention to avoid having to do future modification)


Tips?  Comments? Recommendations on this idea??


thanks again for all of your hard work, help, and patience with us first-timers :D


Again, my pleasure. I mentioned earlier if you're a larger trooper as you start your initial trimming it's not a bad idea to trim outside the molded trim line. This will give you extra room to work with however, the armor is only so big. If you exceed what the suit was designed for you may have to add shims.


There are many talented builders here on the FISD, and sounds like maybe a few in your garrison. Build parties are a great way to get hands on help, I encourage anyone that is uncertain about the prospect of building armor to get in contact with your local garrison to see if there are any up and coming build parties in your area.


That said not everyone has access to this kind of help. In their case I encourage them to read as many build tutorials as possible. Reach out to experienced builders for advice. Check out the Centurion application threads. There you'll see what your finished armor will look like if built correctly.





Don't be afraid to ask questions, that's what were here for.

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I have notice the gaps on my bucket from anovos. Is your buck the same and are you planning to fix it?


Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


There is nothing wrong with gaps in certain areas, helmet included. The suits were never meant to be perfect. from what I've seen so far the gaps nearest the ears are perfectly acceptable. A this time I have no plans on fixing mine but then again, things may change.

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Hey ukswrath, which parts of the armor should have a return edge and which shouldn't? Thanks


As mentioned above the only part that shouldn't have a return edge is the lower (wrist side) of the forearm and the lower shin.


Edit: Return edges are NOT a requirement however, if you choose to keep them they MUST be removed from the lower wrist and lower shin (ankle) at the Centurion level

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