ANOVOS OT TK - Scott's build log

[charlesnarles]

Yeah, just stick the Velcro back on between ghe traps. It's a 3-layer Velcro system: head, strap, strap, Velcro, helmet. I had to re-stick almost all my glued surfaces but it'll be fine even if you have to reposition a few times

Edited January 23, 2016 by charlesnarles

[Airborne Trooper[501st]]

Nothing that can't be fixed easily. Hand painting would make it really pop

[Daetrin[Admin]]

Is that a TIP or HOWTO post I sense in the near future ;-)

[Astyanax]

Going to paint the interior of the helmet black? Looks like everything detaches easily enough...

[manyhighkicks[TK]]

Going to paint the interior of the helmet black? Looks like everything detaches easily enough...

 

N00b here - what is the benefit of painting the inside black? Does it just show less of the "helmet guts" through the lenses?

 

 

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[charlesnarles]

Exactly, it makes it harder for observers to see in the eyes or up the neck opening. Plus it looks cool IMO. I would have asked Anvs for a helmet kit but I wanted the lining which ended up not happening! I plan to use a foam brush (or something) with plenty of paint, as opposed to spraypaint which needs more masking than I want to try on an assembled lid (much easier in pieces)

[Astyanax]

Yeah, my understanding is that it also makes it harder for folks to see your eyes, and even helps cut down on some of the reflective glare, kind of like football player grease under your eyes.

 

Brush paint, good idea. I hadn't thought of that Means you don't necessarily have to go right to the edges at all. I'm definitely going to do that.

[manyhighkicks[TK]]

Good point! Spraying the inside of that sounds like a PIA. Foam brush and black paint it is.

 

 

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[TK 2759[501st]]

N00b here - what is the benefit of painting the inside black? Does it just show less of the "helmet guts" through the lenses?

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That's the theory of it...

[kman[TK]]

One popular option I've read is to use the black plasti-dip coating and brush it inside the helmet.  Nice thick durable layer that bonds well (but can be peeled up if need be).  Available in spray or brush on versions.

Edited January 25, 2016 by kman

[Revyl]

One popular option I've read is to use the black plasti-dip coating and brush it inside the helmet. Nice thick durable layer that bonds well (but can be peeled up if need be). Available in spray or brush on versions.

I was actually thinking about black plastidip as well.

 

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[cm325i[TK]]

I was actually thinking about black plastidip as well.

 

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Give the helmet interior a rough sanding and wipe down before plasti-dip to give something to hold on to. otherwise, the plasti-dip could peel up over time from a smooth surface. Looking forward to progress pics!

[jediknight2212]

Total newbie here as well. Got my Anovos armor yesterday. Excited/very nervous to start. So I have a couple questions. 

 

1. When you Plasti-Dip, you use something like this:  http://www.amazon.com/Performix-12213-Plasti-Dip-Black/dp/B00I9SK8XY/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1453783353&sr=1-4&keywords=Plastidip.

2.  What do you sand with? Normal sand paper (like 120 grit?).

3.  On the sides of the tubes, where the "ears" overlie the tubes, mine (like the picture) has a gap. How do I fix that? Take it apart and re-sand it? Fill it with puddy? Ignore it? I am looking to get Centurion status.

 

Thank you in advance. I will likely be asking more questions as they come. Thanks!

[Astyanax]

1. Yes, that will do, but be sure to pick black. It comes in different colors.

 

2. 120 is a tad coarse in my opinion, but not a huge deal. If that's what you have, use it. I would go with 180-200 myself, but again, not a big deal.

 

3. Ear gaps are normal. In fact, they are movie accurate. Many folks have chosen to remove the ears, sand them to fit better, test fit, and repeat, all trial and error. You can do that if you like, but you can be approved all the way to Centurion with ear gaps thanks to the lineage. Your call. The accuracy vs. idealism debate is a common thing on these forums.

 

Bill

[Revyl]

Yeah, for sanding I'd go with 180-200, maybe even 400 to finish off.

 

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[Dark PWF[Staff]]

I typically won't go more course than 400 as it can eat the plastic a little bit too easily. As others have said, don't sweat the ear gaps. If you are thinking of going for higher levels, I'd look into some tube stripe stencils, or decals as the ones on the bucket are a little bit lower than they should be. A pencil-width down the tube is about all they need.<br><br>

Exciting stuff though, after all of the anticipation and waiting, we're getting to see these kits come to life, step by step.

[kman[TK]]

I typically won't go more course than 400 as it can eat the plastic a little bit too easily. As others have said, don't sweat the ear gaps. If you are thinking of going for higher levels, I'd look into some tube stripe stencils, or decals as the ones on the bucket are a little bit lower than they should be. A pencil-width down the tube is about all they need.<br><br>

Exciting stuff though, after all of the anticipation and waiting, we're getting to see these kits come to life, step by step.

ukswrath seems to think very little needs to be done for Centurion.

 

Though the kit appears to have all the necessary components for 501st basic approval I'll be changing a few things in hopes of making it Centurion (L3) level acceptable.

 

Areas that will be changed: NOTE: These changes are NOT required for 501st basic approval

A. The kit includes velcro and snaps for the internal strapping which I'll be switching out for brackets and straps provided by Mr. No Stripes. Note: The included velcro and snaps appear to be Centurion acceptable except for the chest to back connections. My choice to use brackets is just a matter of preference.

B. The kit includes black elastic for the chest to back connection which I'll be switching out for white, a Centurion requirement.

C. The kit includes velcro to connect the shoulder bell strap to the chest to back strap. I'll be using a Dritz #10 sew in snap. NOT a Centurion requirement

D. The kit includes philips head screws for the TD brackets which I'll be replacing with slotted pan head screws, NOT a Centurion requirement but recommended

E. The kit includes velcro for the rear calf connection which I'll be replacing with the elastic and bra hooks set up, NOT a Centurion requirement

F. The kit includes ABS hand guards which will be switched out for Latex style, a Centurion requirement

I'm sure this list will build, stay tuned

 

Of course, he did reserve the right to add to the list, but he also actually has the kit in hand. He doesn't mention the decals, however. I know you need to remove two chicago screws from the holster, but that barely warrants mention.

 

That said, I would agree to stick to 200+ grit sandpaper, so you don't chew plastic too quickly. Perhaps 180 at the lowest. 400+ for finishing.

Edited January 26, 2016 by kman

[Dark PWF[Staff]]

Did I somehow insinuate that there was a lot of work to be done to get to Centurion? He and I have both built a few kits, and I'm fairly certain that we'd both wind up with roughly the same list of things to do, with kits in hand.

 

The tube stripes - while fine for basic approval as is - are too low on the helmet for those higher levels of approval. There's really not much work involved in replacing stickers on a helmet. These kits are well made, and won't require a lot of work - through the eyes of an experienced builder. As you watch these build threads (UKSWRATH's in particular as he's built a few kits already) the definition of "very little" may expand a little bit.

 

Either way, doing the extra stuff is where most of the fun comes in to play during the build process. Should be fun!

 

 

Troopers Helping Troopers! - TK-51878

[biogradbooth]

Did I somehow insinuate that there was a lot of work to be done to get to Centurion? He and I have both built a few kits, and I'm fairly certain that we'd both wind up with roughly the same list of things to do, with kits in hand.

 

The tube stripes - while fine for basic approval as is - are too low on the helmet for those higher levels of approval. There's really not much work involved in replacing stickers on a helmet. These kits are well made, and won't require a lot of work - through the eyes of an experienced builder. As you watch these build threads (UKSWRATH's in particular as he's built a few kits already) the definition of "very little" may expand a little bit.

 

Either way, doing the extra stuff is where most of the fun comes in to play during the build process. Should be fun!

 

 

Troopers Helping Troopers! - TK-51878

Are we sure these are decals on the helmet? I read they may be more of a transfer. Kind of like a screen printing where the paint is layered on. If so would this be harder to remove replace?

 

 

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[Astyanax]

In another thread it was suggested that they are still decals with a rectangular border, but kind of like the old-style ones for model kits that you would soak in water before laying them on. I haven't received my kit yet, but that would make sense.

 

Which means they'd probably need to be carefully sanded off if you want to remove them.

[Dark PWF[Staff]]

If they are vinyl/printed type of stickers, they can be peeled off and then use mineral spirits to clean the area before applying new ones.

 

If they are transfer/wet decal types, then they can be cleaned off using mineral spirits.

 

Either way, use mineral spirits to clean the plastic before applying new paint or stickers of any kind, and it will leave it perfectly smooth/good as new.

 

 

Troopers Helping Troopers! - TK-51878

[charlesnarles]

I'm considering giving mine a spirit bath and pretending like it arrived assembled but unpainted. I just feel like we as a community can do better than the particular example I received. Since I have UKSWRATH's excellent stencils, I think I'm gonna do that eventually

[Airborne Trooper[501st]]

Hand painting isn't that tough or correct a few times because you have shaky hands... 

[DBoz]

Are we sure these are decals on the helmet? I read they may be more of a transfer. Kind of like a screen printing where the paint is layered on. If so would this be harder to remove replace?

 

 

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They are not vinyl decals. I'm pretty sure they are water transfer decals. If you look closely, you can see marks on them where the water droplets dried. Also, I was able to scrape the corner of one with my fingernail, so removing them should not be too much of an issue.

[jediknight2212]

One more question regarding the Plasti Dip:  Do I just use a regular paint brush and paint it on? Do I "slather" it on or a thin layer? Do I tape off edges? How much of I do I paint? All of it (even the inside of the teeth?)? How forgiving is it? How do I let it dry (right side up or upside down? I am interested in adding fans/electronics to the helmet in the future - will this make a difference? 

OK, that was like a dozen questions. I will be asking a bunch (if OK, I will be following this (an other) forums very closely and ask any questions on here.) - or should I start my own.

 

Thanks much!