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Thrawn's guard

Thrawns Guard's ANH E11 blaster build

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Had a similar plan, great execution! I use green stuff cleaned up with just a thin (#11) hobby knife for the square corners where you can't manage to sand on counters. Keep it up :)

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Thanks for the feedback guys.

 

When I took the photo I had no glues the strips on the bottom of the counter so maybe once glued the gaps will be closed. If not I will definitely fill them in with green stiff.

 

Scott that's a good tip about the craft knife for getting sharp corners.

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Impressive use of the 1mm plastic.  You are doing a great job bringing out the details.  I keep looking at your build so I can improve mine.  GREAT WORK!!!   :th_AnimatedBravoSmiley:

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Well having broken my resin trigger I thought that I'd try my hand and modelling and 3D printing a replacement.

 

I have a little tiding up but I'm pretty pleased with the result (Printed version next to the original resin version).

 

351%20-%20Replacement%20trigger%201_zpsm

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The final item I wanted to upgrade on my counter was to add the second screw in the side plate (Which is almost but not entirely covered up by the counter housing).

 

I managed to find a suitable screw and then marked out the correct position to install the additional screw before drilling a hole, complete with a countersink for the head of the screw, and installed the screw.

 

Looking at the reference picture below it can be seen that there is a strip which runs over the head of the screw consisting of 2 distinct levels. 

 

v7va2vj6_zpst1viaz6q.jpg

 

 I filled the hole over the screw with green stuff and then modelled a thin strip roughly with green stuff.

 

352%20-%20Counter%20upgrade%201_zpskhimx

 

Once it had full hardened I carefully filed and shaped it with a small modelling file.

 

353%20-%20Counter%20upgrade%202_zpsd6rjy

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v7va2vj6_zpst1viaz6q.jpg

 

Hi Chris, you exactly replicated what you have seen on that picture above. Unfortunately this doesn't show a real metal socket, but a plastic socket.

 

The closed plastic socket normally covers the Hensgtler logo behind. On this counter, the plastic socket got that square opening to show the logo.

 

What does that now mean for your reproduction? Your work was good and just needs another very little modification to fully match the original.

 

In the Gallery (chapter #33) you can see various types of counters and there you'll find that little difference between the plastic and the metal socket.

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Thanks for spotting that Tino.<br><br>

If I understand correctly the middle section of the thicker strip which passes over the screw needs removing (leaving 2 T shaped pieces).<br><br>

If that's the case I will make the amendments tomorrow evening.

Edited by Thrawn's guard

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Hey Tino. Not sure if Chris knows what you're referring to, but I don't. Another pic of Denis' counter from his thread here:

 

d39lmatf_zpsjmvmd9ck.jpg

 

Hasn't Chris replicated THIS counter? I think so.... In our gallery there is 12 of Dennis' counters. 9 of 12 have the two screws. One has none - the plastic one. However this plastic one (photo above) does have the two screws, so again we see even more examples available.

 

Or are you referring to something totally different, Tino?

 

Edit - just read Denis' thread - this one is already painted, so not sure what difference that makes?? What it looked like originally??

 

Another Edit, took me 20 minutes to type that due to getting called away, so didn't see your reply Chris. Disregard if necessary..

Edited by Sith Lord

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Thanks for the feedback guys.

Looking at the photo posted above by Ian it appears unless and am mistaken that that I have modelled is correctly (Unless I am misunderstanding something).

Edited by Thrawn's guard

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(...)     If I understand correctly the middle section of the thicker strip which passes over the screw needs removing (leaving 2 T shaped pieces).    (...)

 

That's exactly it. Sorry all for the bad explaining in my last comment. Chris and Mike got it right.

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Thanks Tino I plan to finish this when I get home later today.

 

I also intend to replace my trigger and try out a new trigger mechanism so may be able to also post updates of this.

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Well I thought that it was about time to complete my repair of the trigger. As previously I had wanted to test both the coiled spring method shown earlier in this build thread and incorporation of a compression spring style system I decided to incorporate the latter in the repair.

 

356%20-%20Trigger%20repair%201_zpsibcojm

 

The first task was to remove the small section of trigger broken off in the trigger housing, the steel pivot rod and the coil spring. I carefully removed the green stuff covering each end of the pivot rod using a Dremel but found that the rod was still securely fixed. If nothing else this shows  how solid a joint formed using green stuff can be once it has cured.

 

357%20-%20Trigger%20repair%202_zps8ja6l6

 

This process took much longer than expected to as I then had to carefully machine out some of the greenstuff/resin around one end of the rod to finally loosen it. This however can all be sorted out with green stuff when I come back to reinstall the rod.

 

I then test fit the replacement trigger which worked fine but, if anything, was slightly too thin (I have since reprinted a second replacement trigger which is increased in thickness by 0.6mm which doesn't sound very much but prevents the trigger moving around laterally then operated and feel much more solid in operation).

 

358%20-%20Trigger%20repair%203_zpse6l3uw

 

I then took a small push switch that I purchased ,(as shown previously in this thread), and removed all that I didn't need using a cutting disk on a Dremel to make installation much easier (much less resin to remove and therefore also retaining more strength).

 

359%20-%20Trigger%20repair%204_zpshwlgmf

 

I then used an engraving bit to excavate a recess for the push button to fit in to above the trigger.

 

360%20-%20Trigger%20repair%205_zpscvcfsv

 

Once the hole was excavated to the correct depth I used the steel rod with a small amount of nail varnish to mark the position that I needed to drill a hole (The hole is used to locate the rod within the spring).

 

361%20-%20Trigger%20repair%206_zpskwqsru

 

I used a pin vice with a 2mm diameter steel drill bit to drill the hole and again test fit everything to make sure it was all still coming together correctly.

 

362%20-%20Trigger%20repair%207_zpswinupk

 

The picture below shows the theory of what I am looking to achieve.

 

363%20-%20Trigger%20repair%208_zps8bd6so

 

1)      There is the steel rod which keeps the spring located correctly and therefore ensures that the spring always works in compression (rather than over time perhaps dislodging and rotating within the hole. Note that rod is however loose within the hole so slides up and down the as the trigger is pressed.

 

2)      The spring is placed over the rod.

 

3)      The end of the rod then locates in to the shaped push button and was glued in to position.

 

Below is a picture of the push switch used, the push switch cut down to size, the spring and the steel rod used in the final assembly next to a ruler so as to provide a reference scale.

 

365%20-%20Trigger%20repair%2010_zpsked3f

 

Once installed the push switch is concealed from view once the trigger is moved in to position.

 

364%20-%20Trigger%20repair%209_zpsjjshel

 

I will post an update on this along with a video of the working trigger mechanism this evening/over the weekend.

Edited by Thrawn's guard

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Just a quick modification this time.....upgrading the dome detail in the grip.

 

Using this picture from the reference gallery.

 

Trigger%20Group%2015_zps2z2pijoi.jpg

 

This is what I started with.

 

367%20-%20Grip%20detail%20upgrade%201_zp

 

I then drilled out the cast resin dome and then formed a recess in the handle.

 

368%20-%20Grip%20detail%20upgrade%202_zp

 

 

This is what I have come up with.

 

369%20-%20Grip%20detail%20upgrade%203_zp

Edited by Thrawn's guard
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I can now see light at the end of the tunnel as I am nearing the stage where the work on the blaster is complete. I do have the power cylinders to look at though I am seriously considering purchasing a set of Andy's resin kits. I may however also have a go a making my own as I am really enjoying the process of working on this build.

 

 Leading on from this I will soon be at a stage where I will begin to assemble the parts and apply paint. I therefore thought that I would explain what I have in mind for painting and raise a few questions.

 

Any feedback, comments and suggestions would be most welcome prior to me commencing with the paint scheme.

 

 

1) I will mask off any surfaces which are to be glued.

 

2 ) All parts to receive a undercoat (probably a matt black finish - Citadel Paints produce a very good 'Chaos black' undercoat which I used on models in the past. It applies very evenly and dries very quickly. 

 

3) The T-tracks are then to be masked off.

 

4) All parts other than the T-Tracks, bolt, handle, bolt and scope, (which is actually completed) are to be painted with a metallic silver paint.

 

5) The handle will be finished with a black gloss.

 

6) The T-tracks are then unmasked.

 

7) A matt black top coat is than applied (Not the handle, bolt or trigger group).

 

8) A dark metallic paint, (gunmetal), is to be applied to the bolt and trigger group.

 

  

Notes and questions: -

 

a) The spring is left unpainted.

 

b ) I believe that the scope rail is usually painted mat black. Is this correct ?

 

c) I believe that the inner barrel, i.e. the section of barrel visible through the holes in the receiver, is usually painted mat black. Is this correct ?

 

d) When looking at weathering the magazine is the steel paint effect the same colour i.e. silver or should a slightly darker metallic paint be used ?

 

e) Do people generally apply a clear protective coat ?

Edited by Thrawn's guard

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I personally wouldn't use GW chaos black as a primer coat, I've found in the past it doesn't bond well to resin and flakes badly after a few weeks.

 

For my own blaster I used a Halfords grey primer spray for the first coat, this creates a good key for the paint to bond with. That was followed by two coats of B&Q pewter spray, then two coats of B&Q satin black. Finally used a couple of coats of Halfords gloss lacquer, then all but the grip gut two coats of GW satin purity seal.

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Thanks for the advice relating to the Chaos black paint on resin. I had used it previously on metal and plastics and it worked fine but never on resin.<br><br>

I have both a Halfords and a B&Q not too far away so will most likely call in today to pick up the paints you mention above.<br><br>

One quick question. Does the Halfords gloss lacquer not make the main body of the blaster too glossy ?

Edited by Thrawn's guard

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The gloss is a better protector than Matt or satin. Putting the satin over it takes the gloss off, but still gives the extra layer of protection to the paints underneath. And leaving the grip masked when laying on the satin or Matt top coat leaves the grip glossy. I prefer the satin look for the bulk of the body over the black and pewter areas as Matt is too flat, but I'm tempted to use Matt on the t tracks at some point.

 

The pewter spray gives a nice steel colour so the metallic areas round the trigger don't look too shiny, and for weathering the steel areas, a silver would look like it was clean and polished. It's a bit darker than GW boltgun metal if you have a pot of that to compare to.

 

Dan

Edited by AgeOfStrife
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(...)

 

a) The spring is left unpainted.

 

B) I believe that the scope rail is usually painted mat black. Is this correct ?

 

(...)

 

e) Do people generally apply a clear protective coat ?

 

Hey Chris, now you get to the most exciting part of the build, where the paint brings life to it.

 

a) Thought the same and ended up with a far too shiny spring. Corrected it by spraying some paint fog from a distance and gave it a washing, just enough to remove the glossy shine.

 

B) You can choose the color on the scope rail to match the main gun, or use the same black like on all other additions from the prop makers to turn the original Sterling into an E-11 (for example the Hengstler counter).

 

e) Not many, but some. If you want to do this, make sure to select a clear coat without a gloss finish. This might look strange.

 

But all the above is just my personal opinion.

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Thanks Tino it's good to get some feedback from Dan and yourself as you have both got great builds and have already gone through the process of painting.

 

I also had a reread through your thread earlier and had forgotten how much detail you provide with regard to the paint that you applied.

 

Well I had a quick drive to my local Halfords store today to see what they had and was very pleasantly surprised with the amount of paint that they have in stock................just about anything you would ever want (including glow in the dark paint though I wont be using that in this build  :) ).

 

370%20-%20Paint%20choice_zpstbepeufa.jpg

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My build is now 95% complete as I have had quite a lot of time available this weekend to get my teeth in to the build (I will post some updates during the course of this week).

 

I still have the power cylinders to add, clearing strip to add to the rear bolt, trigger guard to attach, end cap clip to amend slightly and attach, trigger to reinstall, along with the flash guards and front sight guard to glue on but I think other than that I am about there.

 

Therefore I thought that it would be a good idea just to double check everything was fitting OK before I start the painting process. Anyway without further ado here are a few quick pictures of my test fitting.

 

I don't know what I'll do with my time once I finish this build.

 

371%20-%20Test%20fit%201_zpsroxvo6wq.jpg

 

372%20-%20Test%20fit%202_zpsc4m9wayg.jpg

 

373%20-%20Test%20fit%203_zpszzfr1kcj.jpg

 

374%20-%20Test%20fit%204_zpsrmeuvnui.jpg

 

375%20-%20Test%20fit%205_zpsd3gbzegk.jpg

Edited by Thrawn's guard
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Looks great. Looking forward to seeing it painted.

 

If you're like me, you'll start looking at either a pipe build, or a RotJ. Haven't decided to do either yet.

 

I've also been looking at maybe a Vader lightsaber hilt but the prices for something decent are a bit higher than I wanted to pay.

Edited by AgeOfStrife

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Just a quick modification this time.....upgrading the dome detail in the grip.

 

Using this picture from the reference gallery.

 

Trigger%20Group%2015_zps2z2pijoi.jpg

 

This is what I started with.

 

367%20-%20Grip%20detail%20upgrade%201_zp

 

I then drilled out the cast resin dome and then formed a recess in the handle.

 

368%20-%20Grip%20detail%20upgrade%202_zp

 

 

This is what I have come up with.

 

369%20-%20Grip%20detail%20upgrade%203_zp

Chris, do you know the cap (acorn) nut size?  This is a cool, easy to do mod..  I will try and find one to copy your...  On FISD copying is the ultimate form of flattery.  Your build is outstanding.  I can't wait to see the painted finished product.  You have set a new standard for the DD E-11.

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