ukswrath[Staff] Posted September 12, 2015 Report Share Posted September 12, 2015 Nice going Kirk. I agree with Art and Josh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoveMonkey[501st] Posted September 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2015 Less than a week to go for my Salt Lake Comic Con deadline. After some frustrations with the helmet (which I don’t want to talk about ), I decided to tackle the weathering today. Not all of it is done, but I was able to knock out the forearms, biceps, shoulder bells, and shins. I used pandatrooper’s method, but instead of the two layers, I did just the burnt umber dirt layer. I really like how it turned out and this is some of the most fun I’ve had with this build. Maybe it’s because the end is in sight, but I just love the way it looks. I also started gluing the inside snap plates for my inner strapping system. I plan on rotating the magnets I do have over the weekend so that after I’m off work on Monday night, I will have most of that gluing done. Here is what is left to do: 1. Finish Helmet Assembly ---Faceplate Assembly ---Decals ---Inner Padding ---Seals, Green Lenses, etc. 2. Thighs ---Attach ammo boxes 3. Minor trimming on chest and back attachment 4. Canvas belt and ammo belt attachment 5. Internal Strapping System 6. Weathering ---Thighs ---Chest ---Abs ---Kidney ---Butt ---Back ---Helmet Looking at the list, I feel like I can hit my deadline of this Thursday. Assuming there are no major headaches or problems. Now back to work... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airborne Trooper[501st] Posted September 14, 2015 Report Share Posted September 14, 2015 Awesome sauce! Are you emulating a particular trooper? Since you're on a tight deadline, you should just focus on getting your basic clearing and can always adjust your weathering later on. Looking good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted September 14, 2015 Report Share Posted September 14, 2015 Your dirty trooper is looking nice Kirk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoveMonkey[501st] Posted September 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2015 Well, like in a game of poker, you have to know when to fold. I think it is time to fold in reaching my goal of being approved this week for Comic Con, which is next week. There is just too much to do and I don’t have the time to do it in. I also had quite a few setbacks since my last time working on Saturday. After some discussion with my GML, I need to lighten and reduce my weathering. I’m not sure if I can use what I have or if I should just remove all the paint and start over. When I get a chance to go back to Michael’s and get some more paint colors I’ll be able to try and see if I can use what I have so far. So there’s a good couple of hours that I spent on weathering that I need to redo. Then, today, I had a garrison member come and try and help me finish the strapping system. We found out that the snaps I ordered online are not right. What I mean is that the post is too long and when you try and flatten it, it is too big and overlaps at the wrong point, not allowing the snap to fully close between the male and female parts. You can see in the picture below in the webbing where the post is right up against the lip of the snap after being bent using snap pliers, and does not allow it to close properly. You can also see the comparison of the black snap I bought and the extra Dritz snap that he had available and the difference in the post size. Be careful ordering from stecksstore, not because they are bad quality, but they may not be the right snap for the nylon webbing material I am using but might be a better fit for a thick piece of leather. I had to remove all the snap plates that I had already installed, thus setting me back a few more hours and I now need to go buy a completely new set of snaps and new webbing as I used all of it to make the snap plates. Due to some issues at home, I was not able to make it to the store in time tonight to buy replacement supplies. I had taken the night off from work to get more work done and now I can’t do anything to make progress tonight. Needless to say I’m quite discouraged tonight. Maybe tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted September 15, 2015 Report Share Posted September 15, 2015 (edited) Don't fret, if you have a Dremel or grinder just cut the posts down prior to installing. I had the same problem. Edited September 15, 2015 by ukswrath Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airborne Trooper[501st] Posted September 15, 2015 Report Share Posted September 15, 2015 Trim those suckers down with a dremel! You're so close! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted September 15, 2015 Report Share Posted September 15, 2015 Use a pair of needle nose vise grips Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoveMonkey[501st] Posted September 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2015 I don't have a grinder or a Dremel. I think the easiest way to do this will to be buy new Dritz snaps and just make new plates. Heading to the store soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airborne Trooper[501st] Posted September 15, 2015 Report Share Posted September 15, 2015 Man, that sucks. Don't give up though and I think you'll make it. You should be able to rub off some of the weathering with a damp cloth like Pandatrooper did in his video. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted September 15, 2015 Report Share Posted September 15, 2015 Man, that sucks. Don't give up though and I think you'll make it. You should be able to rub off some of the weathering with a damp cloth like Pandatrooper did in his video. I used scotch brite pads, scratched up the armor but I didn't care were sandies in a desert where we're being sand blasted right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airborne Trooper[501st] Posted September 15, 2015 Report Share Posted September 15, 2015 That's my way of thinking too. I have a bunch of scuffs here in there in my build and no reason to polish it out just to get dirty again. I'm going for screen accurate with real world accuracy at the same time. I spent 24 months out in Iraq. I know what sand does to equipment and clothing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted September 15, 2015 Report Share Posted September 15, 2015 That's my way of thinking too. I have a bunch of scuffs here in there in my build and no reason to polish it out just to get dirty again. I'm going for screen accurate with real world accuracy at the same time. I spent 24 months out in Iraq. I know what sand does to equipment and clothing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoveMonkey[501st] Posted September 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 Quick question - I got the mineral spirits to clean up the Testors paint on the faceplate. I attempted the traps myself but they turned out horribly. The mineral spirits isn't doing anything to take off the paint. Do I need something special for Testors paint? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kredal[TK] Posted September 16, 2015 Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 Testors makes a paint thinner that works well. But I've not had problems with mineral spirits on the Testors paint... maybe just need more elbow grease? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoveMonkey[501st] Posted September 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 Testors makes a paint thinner that works well. But I've not had problems with mineral spirits on the Testors paint... maybe just need more elbow grease? Should I let the area soak for a few minutes first to soften the paint or just go for it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kredal[TK] Posted September 16, 2015 Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 Sure, let it soak. It won't hurt the plastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artshot Posted September 16, 2015 Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 I tried some "Revell Painta Clean Brush Cleaner" on some humbrol paint on abs as a test, came off no problem, but it had only been on for 24 hours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoveMonkey[501st] Posted September 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 I need some serious help. I tried putting the bucket together and I'm struggling to get the left ear screw holes to line up. I've been pushing and squeezing really hard and the E6000 is starting to wear out on that side above the ear, with no luck. I think it is a problem from the manufacturer. Any solutions to this problem would be much appreciated. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kredal[TK] Posted September 17, 2015 Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 (edited) The ear holes probably aren't going to line up with the divots on the back plate. Better that you don't try. (: Get the ear up against the black molding, with the notch at the top of the ear laying over the seam between the front and back plates. (Basically up 1/4 inch, and to the left until it snaps into place. Then just worry about the drape of the bottom part of the ear, making sure the seam is all good and covered. You may (read: will) have to sand down the ear some to get it to lay more flat... but a little gap is ok. (: Edited to add: Clean up the paint around the rank bars on the ear before you attach it... You've got a good puddle of gray paint going on the top left corner, and you still need to paint the pinstripe around it, it looks like. Edited September 17, 2015 by Kredal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoveMonkey[501st] Posted September 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 The ear holes probably aren't going to line up with the divots on the back plate. Better that you don't try. (: Get the ear up against the black molding, with the notch at the top of the ear laying over the seam between the front and back plates. (Basically up 1/4 inch, and to the left until it snaps into place. Then just worry about the drape of the bottom part of the ear, making sure the seam is all good and covered. You may (read: will) have to sand down the ear some to get it to lay more flat... but a little gap is ok. (: Edited to add: Clean up the paint around the rank bars on the ear before you attach it... You've got a good puddle of gray paint going on the top left corner, and you still need to paint the pinstripe around it, it looks like. How do you recommend I secure it if I'm not using the pre-designated holes? And I know I've got to fix some paint, just want to get it secure so if I chip it in the process I won't have to do it twice. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kredal[TK] Posted September 17, 2015 Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 Drill your own holes where you need to, once you have the ears positioned correctly, then use washers and locknuts to keep the screws in place. Hmm, I don't have any good pictures of the inside showing where the screws are... but I assure you, they're not where the AM kit says they should be. (: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted September 17, 2015 Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 Kirk give us some inside pics. Are you afraid the bolts won't go through the inner section as well? Just curious. As Josh said just line up the ears where you want. Drill the holes into the helmet despite the location of the factory divots, those are just a guideline anyways. Fashion washers and nuts and you should be good to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoveMonkey[501st] Posted September 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 Kirk give us some inside pics. Are you afraid the bolts won't go through the inner section as well? Just curious. As Josh said just line up the ears where you want. Drill the holes into the helmet despite the location of the factory divots, those are just a guideline anyways. Fashion washers and nuts and you should be good to go. It's not that. After putting in the screw at the base, I went to put in the screws on the ears. The factory divets don't line up and the screws go in at a bad angle. It's as if the left ear needs to be taller, because after the base screw is in, the ear isn't tall enough to reach the brow trim. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted September 18, 2015 Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 What if you start with the upper bolts first, then wrap the lower section around the helmet and then install the lower bolt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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