Jump to content
Khazid

Phoenix Props ANH E-11 Pipe Build

Recommended Posts

No problem,

 

Hope you can get it fixed without too much trouble,  but then again, someone wouldn't notice it quick the way it sit's now..

 

I thought i should post about it, before people would take your picture's as a reference.....

 

I already fixed it once...of course I fixed it the wrong way LOL. It won't be a big problem, just a pair of vice grips, a cloth to protect the paint and a nice heavy twist. That will break the glue seal and then I can spin it 180 degrees and reset it. Repair the paint once the glue is dried and then the part will be placed. Thankfully, this is a little part, so the repair should be simple. Though it may be a while until I get it done, my focus right now is on my armor.

 

Once the repair is finished a revised picture will go up. You're right about the reference part, I don't want to mislead anyone.

 

Again, thank you for catching that error and posting the reference photo of the real lug. :th_AnimatedBravoSmiley:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I already fixed it once...of course I fixed it the wrong way LOL. It won't be a big problem, just a pair of vice grips, a cloth to protect the paint and a nice heavy twist. That will break the glue seal and then I can spin it 180 degrees and reset it. Repair the paint once the glue is dried and then the part will be placed. Thankfully, this is a little part, so the repair should be simple. Though it may be a while until I get it done, my focus right now is on my armor.

 

Once the repair is finished a revised picture will go up. You're right about the reference part, I don't want to mislead anyone.

 

Again, thank you for catching that error and posting the reference photo of the real lug. :th_AnimatedBravoSmiley:

 

I'm busted!

 

Another reason why copying someone elses work can lead down the wrong road, real references are the only way to go :D

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Brandon

 

Any chance you could supply the link for the batteries you got from ebay.

have found the EN-EL11 as stated in the beginning pages of your thread, but they seem to be only 3.7 volt and 600mHa.

 

Cheers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Brandon

 

Any chance you could supply the link for the batteries you got from ebay.

have found the EN-EL11 as stated in the beginning pages of your thread, but they seem to be only 3.7 volt and 600mHa.

 

Cheers

I got my batteries from Amazon. If I can find a link for the item number I will post it for you tonight.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Brandon

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Andrew, here are the links that I used for my power sources:

 

Battery Plates (for the magazine receiver) from E-Bay -- Should this sale expire, just do a search for a similar item and you will find it. This seller is constantly rotating through charging plates for various camera batteries.

 

Batteries + wall/car charger from Amazon

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Parts List

 

I would suggest purchasing a couple pieces of each item, as your project could experience delays if you get a bad part, or like me, accidentally punch down a connection to the positive of the battery, when you meant to punch it down to the ground. Yes, even 7.4 volts will burn up your MP3 chip. I have the burned out part to prove it, LOL!

 

Arduino Nano v.1.3 – I sourced these from E-bay and got a good price on them. I purchased two, and was glad I did when I somehow killed the first one. It may have been static discharge when I was plugging it into my PC to load some code updates, but I’ll never be sure. It just suddenly started going bonkers and then died. Oh well, I had a spare and that one is now ready to go.

 

Kingbright LED Bar Graph – I sourced these from Digi-key.

 

WT5001M02-28P – I had a heck of a time getting these to work for me. Turns out my first source, from E-Bay, was sending me bad chips. So, for my second round of purchases I went through Ali-Express and had much more luck. Very first chip from the new supplier is working just fine.

 

Sandisk 1gb Micro SD card – The MP3 chip can handle up to 2gb, but since Skyone got his to work with the 1gb I went that route. These are hard to source, but I did find the one on Amazon.

 

3W+3W Mini Amplifier Chip– This little chip is amazing, I just didn’t believe the sound volume that would be possible to get out of it and I was wrong. I sourced mine from E-bay and purchased two of them to be safe. Still have the spare in case of any incidents.

 

Speakers – I got the same ones that Skyone has. They should easily fit in the aluminum pipe that Derrek is using, at least I hope so. If not, I’ll figure it out. They work great, and the sound quality considering the setup was shockingly good. [Editor's Note: 6/9/15 - Due to space constraints, I had to eliminate one of the speakers in the final build. I now only have one, but I did not notice any major loss in sound volume.]

 

M16 1W LED Drivers – The first LED drivers I bought for the project didn’t work, as they didn’t have the same dim pin that Skyone found on his. I ultimately used the exact same source that he has linked on his thread. Once those parts came in, they worked flawlessly. I ordered 6 to be safe as I am not the best when it comes to using a soldering iron.

 

3W RGB LED’s – I got mine off of E-Bay and am using two of these for my build. One will be put into the nozzle and the other will be hidden in the barrel to light up the interior for each trigger pull. It is important that the style of LED you get has a pin for each primary color (Red, Blue, Green).

 

6mm SuperBrite LED (Blue) – Sourced at a local electronics store, this will be used as my “Selected Weapon†indicator.

 

3mm SuperBrite LED (Green) – During the troubleshooting of the components, I used this LED as my “status†light for the MP3 chip. Once I got all the code working, that LED has been relocated into the Scope to light up my targeting reticle. It is not connected to the Arduino; it is just constantly on, pulling directly from the battery.

 

Momentary Pushbutton Switch, normally open 1.5A – I got a pack of 4 of these at a local Radio Shack that was going out of business. There are two of them in my build. One is for the “Reloadâ€; the other is used to toggle through the three weapon selections.

 

Microswitch, wired as normally open 3A – This will be on the trigger, sourced at a local electronics store.

 

Reed Switch, 20AT 1.5A max 10OHM resistance â€“ This will be my “on/off†switch. I sourced these on Amazon as the initial reed switches I got from DigiKey didn’t handle enough current and I flash welded three of them before I figured out what was going on. [Editor's Note: 6/9/15 - This reed switch failed, so I had to switch it out with a standard slide switch to ensure stability in the final build.]

 

EN EL-11 Camera Battery – This is the power that runs the whole project. I sourced these off of E-Bay and was able to purchase two in the same transaction. They are rated at 7.4V 1300mAh. Enough power to run the weapon for hopefully 5-6 hours on a full charge, with light to moderate use. If not, the spare should be able to be tucked away on a pouch somewhere on my person while trooping.

 

1W 300OHM 5% Resistor – Six of these are used in the build, one for the Selected Weapon LED and the remaining are on the LED Bar Graph.

 

1/4W 300OHM 5% Resistor– Three of these are used in the build, all for the coded switches (Trigger, Reload, Weapon Select).

 

1/8W 1kOHM 2% Resistor – Four of these are used in the build, one for the green LED for the scope and the remaining are used on the dim pin wires going to the LED Driver’s.

 

Wiring – I used 22 gauge wires in various colors to do all the wiring of the components with the exception of the speakers. For the speakers I used 16 gauge speaker wires that have heavier shielding. This was done to try and keep signal bleed from going into the speakers and causing a background hiss. I am not sure if running at 7.4v will cause background noise, but I just did it anyway.

 

Misc. Parts – 1mm and 2mm styrene for enclosures, EN-EL1 switch plate for the battery connection, blank circuitry boards (no copper connections) for final assembly, quick connect wiring harnesses to allow for easy assembly and tear down of the weapon for servicing, soldering iron, lead free solder wire, soldering flux, heat shrink tubing and a host of tools used for wiring projects.

 

 

Hi Brandon love your build so much I am know working on one for myself, so I have a couple of questions.

 

Is there a reason why you used 1/4W  and 1/8w resistors on the switches and LED Dims?, these are virtually impossible for me to find locally, and was thinking 1/2w should work the same as long as the impedance is correct. (OHM, KOHM) and 1/2w are easy for me to find.

 

Thank you for your help.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Hi Brandon love your build so much I am know working on one for myself, so I have a couple of questions.

 

Is there a reason why you used 1/4W  and 1/8w resistors on the switches and LED Dims?, these are virtually impossible for me to find locally, and was thinking 1/2w should work the same as long as the impedance is correct. (OHM, KOHM) and 1/2w are easy for me to find.

 

Thank you for your help.

 

 

 

Sly, you are right about your resistors. You can have a higher wattage as long as the OHM's are right. They just cost a little more usually to buy the higher wattage ones.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sly, you are right about your resistors. You can have a higher wattage as long as the OHM's are right. They just cost a little more usually to buy the higher wattage ones.

Thanks Derrek, I will be in contact with you soon for a couple of blaster kits, resin parts only as will use PVC pipe and make my own scope brackets.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Derrek, I will be in contact with you soon for a couple of blaster kits, resin parts only as will use PVC pipe and make my own scope brackets.

 

Hi Andrew,

 

I can do this! If the kits aren't including the machined tube I can still sell these even when my alu tubes are all sold so you don't have to wait.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Awesome, there are a few of us here at the Redbacks that are very interested in your beautiful workmanship, and we're thinking we might be able to save or share freight costs if we ordered these in one hit. Will Let you know how many in the next week or so so you can give me a freight quote.

Thanks again.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Andrew, Derreck is right. The omhs are the important part. I used lower wattage as the the parts are just smaller and makes it easier to do the final installation. If you go with higher wattage the resister may have a hard time fitting into a small space on your circuit board.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got it, excellent, thanks for your help.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Another question for you please.

In your schematic diagram, you are showing 1/4 W 10Kohm resistors on the switches, but I couldn't see them in your parts listing.

Did you use them in the end or use the 300OHM in the list.

 

Cheers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Another question for you please.

In your schematic diagram, you are showing 1/4 W 10Kohm resistors on the switches, but I couldn't see them in your parts listing.

Did you use them in the end or use the 300OHM in the list.

 

Cheers

I used the 1/4watt 10kohm as listed in the diagram. I omitted them in error from my shopping list. Those resistors I sourxes from Fry's.

Sorry for the omission

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Brandon, have started getting components together for this build, and you have made it very straight forward for those who follow in your footsteps.

I only hope mine turns out half as good as yours has. :duim:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Epilogue

I learned a lot through this build. After nearly 200 pictures have been posted, several circuit boards and LED’s were fried, and one quick video was produced I believe the goal I set for myself has been hit.

 

I wanted to have an E-11 (ANH style) that would on a scale of 1-10, be a 7 in accuracy. I think I got there, what do you think?

 

Comments and feedback are welcomed, I need to go get organized for my ANH Stunt build.... ;)

 

very well done! happy to see that another arduino blaster was born :)

 

and i should paint mine again following your tips, really like the finish look

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Brandon, have started getting components together for this build, and you have made it very straight forward for those who follow in your footsteps.

I only hope mine turns out half as good as yours has. :duim:

 

Thank you Andrew, I am sure if you take your time and don't stumble in the areas that I did you will be fine. The hardest part of the build for me was getting all the electronics in the custom made counter. If you run across any trouble, feel free to PM me. 

 

very well done! happy to see that another arduino blaster was born :)

 

and i should paint mine again following your tips, really like the finish look

 

Manuel, these are big compliments, and I thank you sir. Yes, I really like how the finish turned out I have already had some comments from friends that it looks like a real weapon. One of those being a US Federal Air Marshal, LOL. Your build was a huge inspiration and if you missed it throughout the thread, I give you all the props for my Phoenix Prop (chuckle).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi again Brandon.

Have tried tirelessly to find matrix prototyping boards that do not have copper in them, all seem to be the same type material.

May I ask where you got yours from please?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi again Brandon.

Have tried tirelessly to find matrix prototyping boards that do not have copper in them, all seem to be the same type material.

May I ask where you got yours from please?

I got my breadboards at Radio Shack. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cancel that, i just worked out what i was doing wrong.... Yippy

 

 

Hi Brandon

 

Did you ever get messages like this when trying to upload the program into the nano board?

 

Arduino: 1.6.5 (Windows 8.1), Board: "Arduino Nano, ATmega328"

Sketch uses 7,332 bytes (23%) of program storage space. Maximum is 30,720 bytes.

Global variables use 237 bytes (11%) of dynamic memory, leaving 1,811 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 2,048 bytes.

avrdude: ser_open(): can't open device "\\.\COM1": The system cannot find the file specified.




Problem uploading to board.  See http://www.arduino.cc/en/Guide/Troubleshooting#uploadfor suggestions.

  This report would have more information with
  "Show verbose output during compilation"
  enabled in File > Preferences.

 

So basically, as an experiment, I took your files as per the link, opened up the Arduino software put them in, plugged in the Arduino and hit the upload. It starts to run through the process, then gives me the above message Problem uploading to board. Only just started to play around with the software but thought it might be a simple thing, I am doing wrong.
 

Edited by Sly11

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

avrdude: ser_open(): can't open device "\\.\COM1": The system cannot find the file specified.

That's suggesting you've not picked the right COM port for the arduino. I forget the exact menu as I'm at work so cannot look it up but in the middle of the menus you'll need to pick 2 options: 1: the COM port that the arduino is attached to (unlikely to be 1, but there will be a list) 2: the type of arduino you're using.

 

Check those are correct, if they aren't it's not going to work.

 

Edit: http://www.arduino.cc/en/Guide/Windowshave a look at step 7.

Edited by themaninthesuitcase
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Andrew, those messages come up when the Arduino software has not yet found your board. I had to switch around the lorts a little to finally find it. I think if you launch the software first, then plug in the chip to the PC it is easier to get a good connection.<br>

Sorry for the delayed response, life has taken over the last 8 weeks.

Edited by Khazid

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...