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TK-6276 Requesting ANH Stunt Centurion Status[ATA][123]


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Hello all my fellow TK's! Without further delay here is my Centurion application. This was a labor of love and I thoroughly enjoyed turning my original build into a Centurion worthy armor. I hope you enjoy looking it over as much as I enjoyed building it. I look forward to joining the ranks of Centurion with my fellow brothers and sisters.

 

EIB application:http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26741-tk-6276-requesting-anh-stunt-eib-status-ata-368/

 

Armor:ATA

Helmet:ATA

Blaster:Doopy Doos resin/polyurethane cast Sterling (assembled and painted by me)

 

Height:5'7"

Weight:180

Boots:TKboots

Belt:Trooperbay

Hand Plates:Rubber (Trooperbay)

Electronics:Aker

Neck Seal:Trooperbay

Holster:Darman

 

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

FRONT,ARMS AT SIDE

23548C32-733A-458F-B132-6CDCEF1F750C_zps

BACK,ARMS AT SIDE

BAB13F3E-EFA7-4235-98C3-05276035AF1D_zps

RIGHT SIDE, ARM RAISED

B2F5C24E-DAA0-453C-B54B-4F0916FFD40B_zps

LEFT SIDE, ARM RAISED

DC3994DA-DA13-4B88-AF26-AB081151C5A8_zps

RIGHT SIDE DETAIL (ADDED "HAN SNAP")

DAF3C708-08AE-469E-A25B-63C11FFFDD7D_zps

LEFT SIDE DETAIL (REPLACED ORIGINAL POP RIVETS WITH CORRECT SPLIT RIVETS)

5803B1BC-4FDB-40CC-B677-3EA76ED73656_zps

AB BUTTON ORIENTATION

DE202F34-8FF1-4B11-891D-8404B2886F43_zps

HAND PLATES AND GLOVES

65B1B555-90EA-49FB-9CB2-A6410D8BD946_zps

HAND PLATES SHOWING FLEXIBILITY (RUBBER)

017E6FDB-A85A-40A7-A13F-F54B236ED5FC_zps

SHOULDER BRIDGE FRONT(FIXED)

0A9592FC-EDE9-41CA-9CC1-512CFDCC4399_zps

SHOULDER BRIDGE BACK(FREE FLOATING) WITH ELASTIC BANDS IN PLACE

CC9A8A87-1793-4305-AA80-714F0D300FA4_zps

THIGH PACK ATTATCHMENT, RIGHT AND LEFT RESPECTIVELY(FIXED PER EIB APP)

F857F559-3292-49A0-90BC-BD24958652A1_zps

9A0A2932-7229-43FA-911E-5CF69E214AE7_zps

SNIPER KNEE PLATE, RIGHT AND LEFT RESPECTIVELY

9463A8C5-03C0-4A65-BDAC-41C624FD1589_zps

9D3FEAA9-EE84-4114-AC3C-847143F72531_zps

DROP BOX ORIENTATION (EVEN WITH BELT EDGE) LEFT AND RIGHT RESPECTIVELY(FIXED PER EIB APP.)

7E0FDCDD-7C71-48B1-8778-861FFFCBD247_zps

575C77E9-DB34-4842-AA9A-5A9991D655A0_zps

DROP BOX BACK SIDE, SHOWING INNER BOX AND ATTATCHMENT WITH RIVET AND WHITE ELASTIC

B09A5ED7-ADC3-4B52-8B63-A4C1BAC0463F_zps

HELMET FRONT (FIXED TUBE STRIPES PER EIB APPLICATION)

62F776C5-E261-446F-829B-64F7BD3135B4_zps

HELMET BACK

1EFDA2A3-A17D-4F5D-AA58-454D172F462C_zps

HELMET RIGHT

F44F11CB-3AAF-4B71-B919-18FAE602DE9A_zps

HELMET LEFT

75577E0A-80C6-4C6A-BA58-3DC49F74A9C6_zps

HOVI MIX TIPS DETAIL

AC36DA92-FA75-48D3-9F76-A0E852F17D89_zps

BACKLIT LENS COLOR

D1FD8E47-9CEB-46D8-A936-FD99DAAA36F9_zps

HELMET S-TRIM

8E3295AB-DD07-473E-B99D-EAE143B486F0_zps

BLASTER LEFT SIDE

9875F453-287B-4BD0-BCF6-DB725A3334F1_zps

BLASTER RIGHT SIDE

19A3BA9A-F677-4B14-9425-706A2D53A118_zpsBLASTER D-RING

DD768B1B-E494-4537-B773-8D921ADF625B_zps

NECK SEALimage_zps594d13dd.jpg

THERMAL DETONATOR FRONT

C9525D24-6D27-41FB-A3F4-3865F0FCB04E_zps

 

ANOTHER ANGLE........(NEW BRACKETS AND SCREWS FIXED PER EIB APP)FB5C1E50-AB6F-42F3-8D7F-45A5BFE147AF_zps

THERMAL DETONATOR BACK

E0F2F0AA-42C4-421B-BF71-1D4A8738D571_zps

HOLSTER ATTATCHMENT

353799BE-D6B9-4B9C-BB6C-105F62AE6010_zps

HOLSTER STRAPS 16MM

F71BFA41-9B03-4C49-9973-751378E5ACCC_zps

AB/KIDNEY SPLIT RIVETS 10 MM

E28006C8-F4CB-4A44-8650-104502451549_zps

SHINS CLOSE OVER TO THE INSIDE, RIGHT AND LEFT RESPECTIVELY33359AFD-1CBA-4F58-8402-67D8D5F3CC7C_zps2E92C003-574D-4398-8E72-CF7A38AA40D0_zps

FOREARMS, NO RETURN EDGE, RIGHT AND LEFT RESPECTIVELY

F3D70B83-264F-49D8-84D2-2696A3100312_zps

 

E5CFEE1B-0F23-4AE8-A567-8E553CE6ECA6_zps

BOOTS, LIGHTLY SCUFFED

FBA33CBD-B853-487F-86EB-2ACA935BA909_zps

ACTION SHOTS

17D1C56D-156F-4460-B49E-32E4B0795363_zps

F3531347-EFD5-4A13-89C4-0CD425379A7D_zps

99C774F9-BD05-4EE4-BECC-D7190E931308_zps

DETAILS.................

2 SNAPS ON BUTT PLATE

58C4652B-3077-4FB8-B20E-F4757F61FB0D_zps

SPLIT RIVET ON CROTCH TAB

9D087A42-FF74-4C90-902B-870F33148372_zps

CROTCH/BUTT ATTATCHMENT

83748D5C-2F57-4F9F-90D8-4A5D0C169069_zps

5B61B0B8-DDAA-4889-B47C-963F46CD049A_zps

WHITE SHOULDER STRAPS

8262A12B-A400-49B9-9E48-0AF920AB7A84_zps

CLAMSHELL (5 PICS)

551ED3B8-B8AD-44E1-BF44-99763504CADF_zps

01605A59-9455-4E92-AAC4-29BACC8CC5D1_zps

4C8AB44B-68F8-41AE-8F1B-A978A368A602_zps

F35C786E-A9D6-4281-9E37-44B38C4D6640_zps

AE7B696D-5658-42A0-92D8-04ADCE57DD22_zps

FULL FRONT,BACK AND SIDES, BUCKET ON (4 PICS)

C090B210-91B8-46FD-991B-92C6830E6857_zps

3917851B-93C5-4DF4-9D1A-2532C861D193_zpsF5537C8C-7FB9-445A-9C13-76D18F355D0B_zps1A62DDD2-CB73-44B9-ABB1-A4AC0FC0C0A2_zps

AB/BELT DETAIL (MY BELT IS PART OF MY CLAMSHELL AND IS NOT REMOVABLE)

BAFC705B-F966-4EB6-914A-700E686C47DD_zps

3E0CE17F-B7CC-4836-B087-5585EE8CA702_zpsE9AA13EC-01A3-4ECA-A6B2-7D82B5362FA6_zps

6B54E284-54D5-49E4-A201-F4A4477E802D_zps

MISCELLANEOUS BLASTER.............

31CA6A1D-3D4F-40B3-A7AE-247BF19CA838_zps

 

1B56F91B-1699-4EBC-837A-847C229E7D3F_zps

 

02D9B81E-0743-4172-92C9-491AD4310700_zps

Edited by Zixx
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I think maybe you viewed it while I was still working on it. I was having problems with my computer freezing so I did 5 pics, posted, did 5 more, posted etc, that way I didn't lose any work. :D

Edited by Zixx
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Yup you are right, and with that......awesome build! Very detailed application with lots of photos to look at. Also, good job on all the mods you made since your EIB application :)

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Great improvements! And great build too :) Some ABS paste solves a lot of problems :duim: . I had to reposition my side rivets too and filled the holes with ABS paste.

 

They might call you out on the cover strips on the back of your shins as the cover strips overlap the ridges:

2E92C003-574D-4398-8E72-CF7A38AA40D0_zps

 

Hopefully it's not an issue but even if it is, it's a simple mod :)

 

But these are just suggestions and the DL has the final say. So don't make any final changes until the DL says so! :D

 

All the best with your application!

Edited by evan_loh
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Hey Jason! Thank you for your application for Centurion. As previously stated, you gave us a lot to look at here. Sometimes in the quest to get you approved for EIB, things are missed to prepare you for Centurion. Regardless of when certain things were picked up, some changes will still need to be done.  Remember, Centurion is about the details. Let's look at your armor!

 

CRL Requirements:

All submission pictures have been posted (and then some ;)  ) You have done well paying attention to the upgrades that you did. I like that you changed out your side pop rivets to the proper domed head rivets and spaced them out properly,  you changed out the pop rivets on your thermal detonator to black screws, you shortened up the straps that the drop boxes hang from. Nice work! We do need to look at some further changes that will need to be done prior to receiving Centurion. These things may not appear in the CRL, but they are still necessary for Centurion level armor.

 

Other-Armor Fit/Assembly:

This point is not as critical to affect your application as it is for an overall better look but however you have your bicep straps attached to your biceps, it is causing your shoulder bells to be pulled down excessively. The top of your shoulders should be close to touching the ribbed shoulder bridges. Remember, as long as you have the bicep straps, it really is not critical that they are around the biceps.

 

Now to the more important points: First off are your drop boxes. They are really thick. Drop boxes should be around the 1/2 inch thick. Many are even thinner as in this pic:gallery_12157_15_25917.jpg

Next are the button plates on your ab. The button plates should be trimmed to be slightly smaller than the stage they are attached to as in this pic:gallery_12157_16_2210.jpgYour center button plate extends over the edges and your 4 button plate covers the stage completely. I didn't think ATA's button plates came like that. Both will need to be trimmed down.

Next are the cover strips on the back of your calves. These should not extend past the ridge at the top. They should stop before the ridge. 

I wanted to discuss your chest plate a bit. You have a MAD amount of return edge on the sides and the bottom that should be trimmed off to get the proper look of your chest. Most return edges hover around 3/8 of an inch (10MM) for the larger parts. I have marked in red what can come off but I hope you do a little measuring as I used "paint" to draw the lines.BAFC705B-F966-4EB6-914A-700E686C47DD_zps5803B1BC-4FDB-40CC-B677-3EA76ED73656_zpsDAF3C708-08AE-469E-A25B-63C11FFFDD7D_zps

Next is the power pack or thigh pack on your lower, right thigh. You did move the rivet location to the upper corner but I noticed that the length of the pack itself is too long. Everyone's thighs are different in diameter. Though however the thigh is constructed, the thigh pack should end at the rear most corner of the lower ridge and not extend beyond it. 31y5.jpg

Next is your blaster. It's great to see that you upgraded from your Hasbro to a Doopy kit. However, it is required that your blaster be assembled correctly and with all parts present. Your photos of your blaster are very hard to see. They should be shot in good, direct light from the sides except for the "D" ring shot. This makes all details clear. Because of the sunlight from the side, the gloss of your paint and the angle you held the blaster at, the details are very difficult to see. however a couple things stand out to me that need correction. First is your scope rail. On a doopy or pipe build kit, the front bend of your scope rail should be inserted into the top vent hole that is behind the top t-track. Here is an example:E-11_4_zps8ede2700.jpgThe rear is either attached between the uprights of the rear sightE-11_1_zps7cdbac5f.jpgOr bent to mount directly to the receiver body like on this screen used, non-firing blaster prop:star-wars-a-new-hope-imperial-stormtroop

A part that I did notice was missing is the bayonet lug that should be located in the spot between vent holes on the lower magazine housing side of the blaster marked here with a red arrow:DD768B1B-E494-4537-B773-8D921ADF625B_zpsI have a question regarding your front sight. I have yet to see a Doopy kit where the front sight didn't fit close to exact to the receiver front like thisDSCN1351_zps3e70041e.jpgYours seems to be trimmed a little off sorry to say.02D9B81E-0743-4172-92C9-491AD4310700_zps I would like to see some clearer pics of your blaster, though. 

 

I know this seems a little overwhelming. Please do not hesitate to contact me if you need to go over some things in more detail or I did not explain them well enough. We are here to help you That is what we are all about. 

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Thanks for the input Steve. All the trim work on the chest, thigh pack, ab plates and shin strips will be easy enough. The drop boxes I just made the other day and are pretty well zapped together so I will have to make another set to proper thickness. Everything with the blaster came trimmed and I just assembled. That's how the front sight fit out of the box.I will have to try and fill the gaps with bondo. The sight rail I had to make and did the best I could with 1/8 thick aluminum. I'll have to try and find something thinner to get the bends properly. The bayonet lug..........I don't know what happened to it. It was there..... :( I'll get to work on everything right away!

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Pic stolen from usaeatt2's build thread http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26960-e-11-steel-pipe-build/page-5?. The 1/16 will be a LOT easier to bend and probably more screen accurate too.

 

RailComparison_zpsac56c75a.jpg

 

Good luck Jason. Most of that shouldn't be too troublsome for you.

Edited by Sith Lord
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Update. 4 more days left of vacation so I plan on working to get this done before I go back to work. I miraculously found the missing bayonet lug under my couch. I'm heading to the Depot now to try and find some 1/16th aluminum.......stay tuned.

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If you are going to go with the 1/16th rail like in the top pic, he used steel rather than aluminum. An aluminum one will most likely bow and look goofy.

I'd try to cut down your drop boxes before getting new ones. You might be able to make it work.

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If you are going to go with the 1/16th rail like in the top pic, he used steel rather than aluminum. An aluminum one will most likely bow and look goofy.

Sorry Steve, if you check his thread pretty sure he used aluminum.

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