theisaac Posted March 11, 2013 Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 is it the angle of the picture or are the forearms square? In the pic with the left and right ones, the left looks square. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FunkyTrigger[TK] Posted March 11, 2013 Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 I would not cut them to that red line! Whilst they are taped up. Can you show a pic of them on your Arm? The flat bits look too wide at present. Are you form fitting the armour parts to fit your body shape? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeyItsAdam[TK] Posted March 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 I would not cut them to that red line! Whilst they are taped up. Can you show a pic of them on your Arm? The flat bits look too wide at present. Are you form fitting the armour parts to fit your body shape? I'm a big guy and while they are taped I can just get my hand in the forearm without separating them. They look wide because they are wide... and I'm wide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theisaac Posted March 12, 2013 Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 You can always look at the top of the FISD and look at reference pics. The forearms are straight around the wrist. Now where that lies on your wrist depends on the length of your forearm. Thats why we are asking for pics. I have popeye forearms too so I know what you are going through We need to help you size the length and the width. Take a look at this photo for an idea of what I am talking about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theisaac Posted March 12, 2013 Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 Here is another pic to help you on your build for the forearms. Look at the row across the top. They are all straight at the wrist and taper back to fit the forearm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evilboy[501st] Posted March 12, 2013 Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 I think he meant 235 Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2 Yes, 235. Typo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeyItsAdam[TK] Posted March 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2013 (edited) This armor is VERY thick and VERY tough. It takes some serious elbow grease to do a score & snap (or maybe it's just me because I'm reticent about scratches and miscuts). I used the Dremel cutting wheel to saw off the extra chunk of white. I came about a centimeter from the pencil line I drew to even it out. Then I used masking tape to make a straight line and the Dremel sanding tool to whittle away the rest. I'm thinking if the aim is to get a good taper, I'll velcro/overlap the other side. Edited March 13, 2013 by TampaBayTK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theisaac Posted March 13, 2013 Report Share Posted March 13, 2013 You can trim the wrist down and taper as you go back to the elbow. I have made exaggerated lines to show you the taper but just taper to fit your wrist. Make it as small as you can and still get your hand through when you tuck your thumb and pinky into your hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeyItsAdam[TK] Posted March 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2013 (edited) You can trim the wrist down and taper as you go back to the elbow. I have made exaggerated lines to show you the taper but just taper to fit your wrist. Make it as small as you can and still get your hand through when you tuck your thumb and pinky into your hand. To make the taper at the wrist, what I did was I cut a "pie" shaped piece of velcro that went down by the wrist so it overlaps a little more a the bottom than the top. I have to take a picture of it and post it. I've had to stop for a few days after making good progress because my freakin' Dremel locked up on me! The "lock" used to hold the bit in place so you can replace the heads wasn't holding the bit in place and I couldn't change from the sander to the cutting wheel. So... off to Home Depot. Edited March 16, 2013 by TampaBayTK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locitus[Admin] Posted March 17, 2013 Report Share Posted March 17, 2013 I'm thinking if the aim is to get a good taper, I'll velcro/overlap the other side. Don't overlap. NE isn't designed to be overlaped. Cover strips only. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deckard[TK] Posted March 17, 2013 Report Share Posted March 17, 2013 Contact info is: tupperwaretk@yahoo.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeyItsAdam[TK] Posted March 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2013 Don't overlap. NE isn't designed to be overlaped. Cover strips only. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2 Why not? I can't use a velcro strip on one side? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walt[501st] Posted March 21, 2013 Report Share Posted March 21, 2013 pics of the helmit done plz......want to see the brow trim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locitus[Admin] Posted March 21, 2013 Report Share Posted March 21, 2013 Why not? I can't use a velcro strip on one side? Not really. It's just not made to be assembled that way. And if you still do that, it might not turn out very good. Why would you want to use velcro anyway? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeyItsAdam[TK] Posted March 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2013 Not really. It's just not made to be assembled that way. And if you still do that, it might not turn out very good. Why would you want to use velcro anyway? ; Couple of reasons. My weight fluctuates a lot. In the past year, I have been as much as 268 and as low as 220. Secondly, my thinking was with velcro on one side, I can tighten the pieces around my arm instead of keeping it one size and having to measure and cut to a level where I can JUST squeeze into it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locitus[Admin] Posted March 21, 2013 Report Share Posted March 21, 2013 You do as you wish, but I'm pretty sure it's not going to look very good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HockeyTrooper[TK] Posted March 21, 2013 Report Share Posted March 21, 2013 I would recommend staying away from velcro when possible as well. There are a couple of other options that would allow for some flexibility in the size if you would rather not glue them. One of these methods would be use of elastic strapping to attach the 2 halves of the forearms. It is a method I'm experimenting with on my 3PO build, so I don't know that it has ever been utilized for a TK or would work. On one half of the arm piece you would want both an inner and out cover strip glued and then elastic strapping that would be tight enough to hold the 2 pieces together but still allow for some flex. It might also be possible to completely glue the strips down to both pieces on one side of the arm (the more visible side) and then try the elastic on the other side. Just an option. Like I said, I haven't seen that done on a TK before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pencap510 Posted May 13, 2013 Report Share Posted May 13, 2013 Any progress made on the build? I am considering purchasing the NE kit and was wondering how you are progressing. .. side-note... I am in Tampa Bay area too, and noticed your pug in the pic... got one of my own... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.