Deckard

Hello everyone, the blog grabs that were introduced early on were mine, based on conversations with Paul Harrison at Elstree. He worked on the Landspeeder, the Mouse Droid, Treadwell and the Stick Droid (Jawa sale). http://sterlingblasterconversion.blogspot.com/ Chris Trevas (LonePigeon) and I had conversed a bit about this, and felt we were headed in the right direction with the bank of capacitors and vacuum tubes found in vintage amplifiers that were abundant in 1976 England. I'm curious, what is the final result of what you have unearthed on this topic? Can someone give an accounting of what has been found and where the search stands? Thanks!

Contact info is: tupperwaretk@yahoo.com

One note: The raised ridge in the ABS across the brow of the faceplate is a "Cementing Ridge" to glue the front of the dome to. This leaves a gap that will allow the builder to add the accurate brow trim (included) after careful cementing, and will also allow them to change it out and replace it if necessary at a later date. Measure a lot and cut in very small increments. You can always take more off or sand a little - you can't put it back on! The helmet is designed to require trimming along the front/back join seam and the comm covers to get a custom fit and look - based on the look the builder wants. Some like gaps, some like it nice and neatly joined. For the forearms, generally people "test fit" with masking tape, aligning the elbow end, and trimming at the wrist end (making sure to retain the waffled detail along the arm's edge, but this group won't steer you wrong - they are a GREAT resource.

One note: If you bought a FULL kit with helmet, the raised ridge in the ABS across the brow of the faceplate is a "Cementing Ridge" to glue the front of the dome to. This leaves a gap that will allow the builder to add the accurate brow trim (included) - by pushing it up and on after careful cementing, and will also allow them to change it out and replace it if necessary at a later date. Measure accordingly when figuring where the dome should be glued. Measure a lot and cut in very small increments. You can always take more off or sand a little - you can't put it back on! The helmet is designed to require trimming along the front/back join seam and the comm covers to get a custom fit and look - based on the look the builder wants. Some like gaps, some like it nice and neatly joined.

One note: The raised ridge in the ABS across the brow of the faceplate is a "Cementing Ridge" to glue the front of the dome to. This leaves a gap that will allow the builder to add the accurate brow trim (included) after careful cementing, and will also allow them to change it out and replace it if necessary at a later date. Measure a lot and cut in very small increments. You can always take more off or sand a little - you can't put it back on! The helmet is designed to require trimming along the front/back join seam and the comm covers to get a custom fit and look - based on the look the builder wants. Some like gaps, some like it nice and neatly joined.

Thanks guys!

What blue is considered canon for tube stripes?

Thanks Andy! I just added in the power cylinders and wires section this morning. Check it out!

There was a request to have my Sterling to E-11 build-up thread posted here. Rather than go through all the copying and pasting, you can find it in its entirety here: http://sterlingblasterconversion.blogspot.com/ ENJOY!!

Thread is now here: http://whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?show...mp;#entry104040

The AM is not a time or even a portion of the day. The answer lies in the AM. More will come . . . soon.

"That armor was our last hope." "No. There is another." The answer will come in the AM. More soon . . . . .

Thanks!