Ducati Posted August 27, 2012 Report Share Posted August 27, 2012 My blaster is primed and ready for painting. Before I start to spray things I want to ensure that I've got things right. Below is a list of areas and how I plan on painting it. Could someone please post if I have things correct? (and if I don't set me on the right path). Textured/hammer finish black - Barrel, sight guards, bayonet stud, ejector port/blow back guards, handle (the part the grip slides onto), butt cap, lock for the butt cap/rear stock, folding stock, and the scope body. Non textured black (somewhere between mat and semi gloss) - clip, mag well, counter, muzzle, muzzle bolts, scope rail, T-tracks, trigger, trigger guard, scope "ends", Ejector screw parts, bolt lever, Selector switch, various fasteners for the grip Gloss black - Grip Unpainted steel - bolt spring, trigger mechanism stuff, spiral details on bolt Gun metal gray - remainder of bolt. Everything will have a steel or brass base layer which will be visible via weathering as appropriate. Thanks for your help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sonnenschein Posted August 27, 2012 Report Share Posted August 27, 2012 Sounds about right. Some might say the textuted paint is not accurate; but I like it, cause it makes every more "realistic". But that's just me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted August 28, 2012 Report Share Posted August 28, 2012 Painted my hasbro primer, silver base, satin black, weathered then satin clear. Debated on the textured finish but after much discusion decided not too. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth Hilarious Posted August 28, 2012 Report Share Posted August 28, 2012 Depending if you want to go for an ex-military or commercial looking Sterling- many commercial MkIV's had crinkle finishes on the endcaps and various other parts. It's a very cool look. I would very much lean towards satin over matte- matte finishes tend to have a 'ruber prop' look about them. The grip should always be gloss, the real ones are plastic. For the scope, bronze may be a better undercoat colour than brass for your weathering effects... Also, if you look carefully at some pics of Sterlings, there is always some plain metal showing around the trigger group. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RATBASTIRD Posted August 28, 2012 Report Share Posted August 28, 2012 Painted my hasbro primer, silver base, satin black, weathered then satin clear. Debated on the textured finish but after much discusion decided not too. Good luck Thank you Ducati for starting this post. I'm waiting for my Doopy kit to arrive and then will start my build. Painted my hasbro primer, silver base, satin black, weathered then satin clear. Debated on the textured finish but after much discusion decided not too. Good luck Can you post a few of the finished product? A lot of the photo links are old in these posts so nothing shows up. I never get tired of seeing different styles of gun builds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vader74 Posted September 2, 2012 Report Share Posted September 2, 2012 are real sterlings that beat up looking dont solider oil clean and maintain there weapons on a regular basis ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth Hilarious Posted September 2, 2012 Report Share Posted September 2, 2012 Soldiers do, but most Sterlings aren't fresh out of military service. The scopes in particular tend to be pretty old-looking, because they date all the way back to WW2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted November 23, 2012 Report Share Posted November 23, 2012 (edited) I would have say that the list you have is correct enough. the hammered black is a nice effect if done correctly. if you had an original sterling in the MK 4 british manufacture there has been some discussion that the paint was phosphorus based, and when you look at the finish on a british sterling they only used crinkle paint in the late 70's long after the firing versions bapty used in the star wars films. in fact crinkle painted folding stocks and end caps were rejected by british standards, and had to be sent to the KR series of guns made in other countries. we have to keep in mind that the paint in the star wars sterlings varied from non gun's to blank firing, and then some versions used in promotional photos were done in the usa. only guns imported before a certain date were used in photos in the usa, which is why we have crinkle painted versions in the promo photos with luke, leia and solo. but in the film the bapty company took phosphorus paintjob sterlings and simply painted them with standard flat black paint. so it's not really accurate to paint an 'on screen' sterling with crinkle finish! but if you're doing let's say a luke costume with a sandtrooper TK belt, then I'd use crinkle paint! the magazine is blued steel, and the scope is sand cast brass. Edited March 21, 2013 by TK Bondservnt 2392 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flerndip Posted March 21, 2013 Report Share Posted March 21, 2013 I wonder if the "hammered" textured paint would be sufficient to hide the grain on a well-sanded wooden blaster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted March 21, 2013 Report Share Posted March 21, 2013 using the hammered for the base texture is fine, but you then have to knock it down with a regular matte clear coat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locitus[Admin] Posted June 17, 2013 Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 We have some pretty decent images in our gallery of the sterling and what is painted how: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/album/40-sterling-l2a3-mk-4/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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