Ducati

Most of the parts on the sterling were stamped and formed out of sheet metal. As sheet metal varies depending on the batch from the mill, the thickness of the parts can vary as well. It would have been made of 16 gauge material (prior to 1965 the UK used the imperial system not metric). 16 gauge material varies from 0.0648" (1.65mm) to 0.0548" (1.39mm). I would suspect that they control the inner dimensions on the mag well (so any mag would fit in) and the outer dimensions were dependent on the material thickness..

I need to check on the weight and how it the selector switch was wired. I'll get back to you shortly.

Very clean build. The paint is great. I like it.

Springs - Compression Reid supply Buy the 10" length, outside diamter to match in ID of your barrel. http://www.reidsuppl...ngs-individual/

You didn't miss anything. I can't see it there either. I will see about getting it uploaded. If you want it ASAP then PM me your email address and I will send it directly to you.

Here is a list of most of the purchased parts detailing where you can find them. Item Vendor Comments Part number Website Approximate cost Grip Numrich gun parts Limited shipping options if you live outside of the US http://www.gunpartscorp.com/ Laser pointers 2in1 Super Red laser Pointer W LED Lamp Keyring Ebay Used for "sights" inside power cells. Purchased from user "Itechcool" <$1 LED bar graph, 10 segment LED bargraph Array fixed Tri-Color New King Bright You can find this on Ebay as well. Purchased from Ebay user "teketron357" DC3G4Y3EWA http://www.kingbrightusa.com/product.asp?catalog_name=LED&product_id=DC3G4Y3EWA $5 Muzzle LED, 3W RGB High power LED star 2 watt lamp light Ebay 3 colour high intensity LED (I only use red/blue). If your using a blaster core board, This needs to be have a common Anode. <$6 Rare earth magnet Lee Valley hardware Used to latch the clip to the barrel 99K32.03 http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32065&cat=1,42363,42348 <$1 20 pcs SMD SMT 1210 3528 PLCC-2 Super bright red LED lamp light RoHS Ebay Used for barrel propagation effect. Brand Everlight, color Red, Forward voltage 1.9-2v, forward current 20 mA. Purchased from user "grand_sky" <$3 for 20 4p, Two 2 Gang Off on Panel Mount MINI Slide Switch, K5 Ebay Used to turn the blaster on/off. Purchased from user "goodbuy7888" <$2 Filler/2 part epoxy putty Local hobby store Used to fill gaps/sculp details that are too difficult to machine http://www.milliput.com/ $10 Glue Home Depot For joining non structural Aluminum parts together. Gorilla glue $5 Raw aluminum material Metal supermarkets Everything from sheet metal to tube for barrels in all kinds of sizes. They ship and you can buy small quantities. http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/ Varies Resistors - muzzle LED Ebay 3W 18ohm 18R Metal Oxide Film Resistor R 3W. Purchased from Ebay User "abillionstore" $1 Resistors- everything but the muzzle LED Ebay 100 SMD Chip Surface mount 0603 Reistor 68 ohm. Purchased from user "grand_sky" $2 Rotary switch, Otax KDR102 PCB Mount Rotary Switch 0to9 Slotted 5pcs Ebay Mode selection switch. Purchased from user "breconjess" <$6 Sheet metal KSM Laser Talk to Lisa; she will hook you up. 1/16th & some 1/4 aluminum http://www.ksmlaser.com/ >$300 Sound board Plecter labs This can be a long wait for these as he produces them infrequently http://www.plecterlabs.com/ $150 Spreaker Plecter labs Typically in stock http://www.plecterlabs.com/ $8 Springs - Compression Reid supply Buy the 10" length, outside diamter to match in ID of your barrel. http://www.reidsupply.com/products/tooling-components/springs/compression-spring-music-wire/compression-springs-individual/ <$2 Springs for trigger Ball point pen Trigger switch I pulled this out of a junk draw. The best I can offer is to look for a "micro contact limit switch". You will need to match the mounting hole pattern as what is the DXF package (First post in this thread). Alternatively you can modify the side plates to match any switch Edit - I see the formatting on my chart has gone to the dogs. I will try and clean it up shortly

I'm happy to share it. Some points of clarification: The zip is a series of PDF's that detail 98% of the parts that I made. Note many drawings have multiple pages. While my parts are very close in shape and size of sterling parts, I doubt that anything would be interchangeable. For example; a sterling clip would not likely fit in the mag well detailed in my package. (although I don't think it would require much work to make it fit.) There are some variations from the genuine parts. There is a dxf for laser cutting/layout of the sheet metal. Everything in the layout is 1:1 At some point in the future I will post a list of things I would do differently if I could travel back in time. I've also included an edrawing of the whole assembly. You should be able to pull any measurements that I missed in the drawings. You'll also be able to see how stuff goes together if its unclear. You'll need to download a viewer from Solidworks to view the edrawing. Here is a link for the viewer: http://www.solidwork...wnloadcheck.htm If anyone wants the actual solidworks stuff, PM me. If you run into something that you can't figure out just ask and I'll try and clear it up for you.

Parts that don't have much stress put on them I used some form of glue. The grip and the folding stock mount were welded. I chose to go this route as I had nightmares of the blaster tumbling out of my hand and hitting the ground while I still had the grip in my hand and the stock in my shoulder, I glued the low stress parts as it was the easiest method of construction and it didn't add any heat or distortion to any of the detail parts. If I were in your shoes I would try removing the galvanization from the barrel & the paint from the part you are trying to glue (just in the areas where you are making the joint). I would also try gorilla glue/epoxy. Either the paint or the zink oxide might be preventing a good bond. In some parts like the handle you may not have sufficient surface area for the glue to make a strong enough bond. I would try and find an experienced welder to do the brazing as Vern suggested. Before you hand everything over to your welder I would try and get them a sample to test everything first. You're joining 2 different types of steel of unknown origin. They may have different melting points and a proper weld may not be possible. Better to have the welder screw up some scrap and not your good parts. Good luck

Final pics and some videos Truth be know I still have a few things that need to get painted; The latch for the folding stock, the grip fastner & the bolt cocking handle. I ran out of time at the end of the project to paint them properly. I'll get to it eventually... Note how the folding stock butt blends into the stock body. Here you can see the spring plate that locks the folding stock in the open position VIDEO DETAILING HOW THE FOLDING STOCK WORKS http://s1324.beta.photobucket.com/user/DarthYoga/media/Final%20pics/BlasterBuild11-23-12000.mp4.html VIDEO DETAILING THE ELECTRONICS http://s1324.beta.photobucket.com/user/DarthYoga/media/Final%20pics/BlasterBuild11-23-12002.mp4.html I guess that does it for show and tell. Next up will be some info on where you can buy the stuff I used (like switches, springs, paints, LEDs). After that will be a drawing package and Solidworks model release. Finally if a mod knows how to imbed the videos above I would sure appreciate it if you could do that for me. I can't figure it out.

Some odds and ends that don't fit anywhere else. A bit of background that will make sense in a second - My wife and I had our first date on Halloween, as a result Halloween is a big deal to us. Ya'll get one guess as to what this years costume was. The bolt. This is another part that I had CnC'd. There are some helical shapes on the outside of the barrel that would have been very difficult with the equipment that I have here. I actually sent this drawing off shore to one of my works suppliers. This part came in at the very last minute, Oct 28th. As a result I didn't get to put the paint finish on it that matches the screen version. You'll notice the bolt looks normal when it's inserted into the barrel, but when its out it has all kinds of funny relief cuts in the back side. These cuts were to allow room for the wiring that needs to pass through that section of the barrel. The spring was purchased from an online catalog. Springs are cheap and come in a huge variety of sizes and shapes. If I remember correctly my spring was less than $2. In a later post I will detail out where I purchased all the stuff I got. Stuff that doesn't fit anywhere else. I had intended to do a series of pictures at regular intervals of how things where coming alone. I had hoped to create a "time laps" of the build from start to finish. As it turned out I did well at the start but as crunch time came around I just had to keep my head down and work towards my deadline. Here are the pictures I did take. One month later One month later One month later 2 months later

Vern - I can put you in contact with someone for laser cutting, although I think I maybe easier if you find someone local as my guys aren't cheap. When you factor in freight and duty I think it maybe cost prohibative. I will PM you with in the week. Everyone - Thanks for the compliments I'll try another post up today.

Hi Vern, I understand and appreciate your opinion. You certainly are the E-11 accuracy expert. Using real parts is an impossibility where I am due to the fire arms regulations. It just wasn't an option. You may be thinking "you have the grip..." . That story is interesting but not one I'm willing to share. I will say that it involved some very understanding people, a lot of bureaucratic hoops and a lot of luck. In hindsight, there are a few things I would change if I could go back in time knowing what I know now. But it's all small stuff that only an expert such as yourself could pick out. At the end of the day the only one that needs to be happy with this build is me and I'm thrilled with it.

Eventually - all the files currently have a bunch of personal info that I don't want to share. Once I remove all of that stuff then I would be happy to upload the whole poop-a-roo. Models + drawings = about 160mb. I would also like to add a set of PDF's for people that don't have solidworks. Timeline wise I would guess sometime before the end of the year. Could you PM me about how to get stuff up on the site?

An update for today is going to be tough but I'll see what I can do. IT has replaced my computer and didn't transfer over all the pictures from my old one. Evilboy - sent you an email with the file you asked for.

Beautiful work.

Electrical work I have a co-worker that I recruited into doing the electrical work on the blaster. I was very happy to have him along for the project as this is his area of expertise and I was overwhelmed with mechanical side of things as it was. He found these tiny LEDs that you'll see all over the blaster. I couldn't believe how small they are. I actually had trouble getting the camera to focus on them The first one glued in place in the scope. FYI we used hot glue for these. A bunch more soldered together for the internal barrel The above LEDs glued in place The front of the internal barrel; detailing the "muzzle" LED After the first day of soldering. Look at the size of the capacitors. The circuit board is a blaster core 4.0. The finished internal barrel A test fit of the internal barrel Starting on the 10 bar LED for the counter Speaker is all wired up and everything is ready to be heat shrunk together. Note the switch in the bottom right. It's to turn the scope light/laser pointers in the power cells on. The power cells all wired up. We did end up reducing the number of coils by 3 or 4. And the scope/counter mounted to the barrel. The wire bundle pulled into the barrel. The power cells aren't glued into place yet. I wanted to make sure everything was wired correctly before permanently fixing stuff into place. The mode selection switch

Painting I hit the barrel with a metallic paint. Once the metallic had cured I applied a liquid latex mask where I wanted a chipping effect Next was to hit it with a full coat of flat black I then masked off the magazine and hit everything else with the hammered black All dry Chipping the liquid latex off A jig and the cool paint effect that was left on it

Priming Everything that is aluminum required a aluminum specific primer. The machined aluminum is too smooth (on a microscopic level) for a regular primer to bond to. So I needed to use a primer that would etch the surface. I masked off the inside of the barrel as it's mostly covered and hardly seen. Everything that was plastic I painted with a plastic specific primer; you'll notice its a darker grey. Other bits being primed. I won't post pictures of it all but here are some of the more iconic ones.

Scope rail and some test fitting The scope rail After welding before sanding And on the blaster Test fit with the scope and counter Some other test fits

Tabs for the butt cap In the very first post I skipped over the tabs on the butt cap. They were laser cut then bend. I fit them to the butt cap using the folding stock body as a jig. I temporary glued them into place and then had them welded after.

Assembly - part 1 The first major assembly set was to have the handles for the grip welded into place. Sorry no pictures of the welding process but here's part way through. Another stitch was placed along the seam where the barrel meets the grip after this. The other side I ended up doing a bunch of filing and filling to make the weld look a little closer to the actual prop. You can see that in some of the pictures later on. Next was the mag well and rear stock lock. I used gorilla glue to attach both parts then a 2 part sculpting epoxy to form the blend between the barrel and the individual parts. This is how I filled the chipping that happened during the machining process on the mag well. After the above picture I did additional sanding and filling with a Tamiya filler. Next I started to glue/weld some of the smaller details into place

Folding stock - Part 4 - The plunger, Folding stock butt, and a few random bits The plunger A spring ANOTHER VIDEO - THE PARTS PICTURED ABOVE WORKING TOGETHER http://s1324.beta.ph...-12048.mp4.html The folding stock butt. I ended up getting this CNC'd It was too complicated & required too much precision to try and fabricate. Here it is after I added some dimples in the sides. The sides let the butt lock into place when the stock is folded. Below is the corresponding grooves that are required to let the folding stock lock into the unfolded position Another laser cut detail glued into place The finished stock body

The folding stock - part 3 - The gusset, stock butt spring, pivot pin, and a stopper. The gusset The pin The stopper The spring - this part gets welded together with the last post. They are positioned together how I'm holding it in the 3rd pic down. How all this stuff goes together

The folding stock - part 3 Another part you won't recognize. Its a plate that keeps the folding stock butt from collapsing

The folding stock - part 2 A part you won't recognize or would have probably noticed and it was an effort to make