gjw

http://i405.photobucket.com/albums/pp139/Billhag/Myscoperail2.jpg I used Billhag's template for my resin Hengstler but I just couldn't see drilling into a genuine one. I've got a Hengstler timer (looks pretty much just like a counter) but again, I really wasn't sure if I wanted to drill into it or not.

So those of you fortunate enough to have genuine Hengstlers... how do you mount them? Are they glued or do you screw right into them or what? Can you screw into them and still have them functional?

Great shot of #8's blaster? Is that a folding stock on top of the barrel?

If you're going for ANH, the kit you pictured doesn't include the Hengstler nor the Power Cylinders. http://www.houseshadowwolf.com/ sells a resin E-11 that looks decent enough to me. They'll make any version you like and also sell on eBay. Like the others, the weak point is the scope rail but other than that it's very solid.

I'll be there! My son dances to the music as it is so this should blow his mind!

I think you missed the sale deadline but try sending a PM. ---------- Maybe they've still got a few.

Well a recoat of satin black made a big difference. Only things left are the t-track and the power cyllinders.

I heard the same was true of the Sterling and that both should be held by the barrel shrowd. And my 4-year-old who LOVES everything Star Wars couldn't even sit through the Holiday Special. My wife and I were very thankful for that.

Not enough juice, I suspect. The A23 is rated at 55mAH to 50% so after supplying 55mA for 1 hour, the battery will be putting out only 6 volts. Not sure if you can find a 55mA 12v fan that will continue to work with only 6v but even if you did, it would only run for 1 hour.

Looks good. I don't know how you all remove the t-tracks so cleanly. On mine the vertical section of the t-track was easy enough to remove but when removing the flat horizontal base of the t-track I sanded right through the barrel. Bondo fixed it up but it was never round again. Which paint did you use?

I thought they were acceptable out of the box and the modifications were only required for Elite status. To the original poster: The face of the MR has a two part construction and one of the mods is to fill in the seam or crack that runs right below the frown. An other typical mod is the remove the earpieces, which extend too far off of the sides of the helmet, and either thin or replace them. The inaccurate (undersized) stickers can also be replaced or else hand-paint the details. Unfortunately, officially licensed doesn't always mean accurate.

Thanks a lot! I work on it at work and my coworker, who's not a big Star Wars fan, kept telling me how cool it would be if I left the steel inner barrel unpainted. He was very distressed today when I showed him how the T-track will cover most of the holes. "You can't put those on there! Yours will just have to be different!" Of course he was also distressed one morning to find his desk completely covered in Bondo dust after I'd "worked" late the night before.

Think I'm gonna have to repaint cuz it's way too glossy but I'm a little closer to done. I took a page out of SRProps book and made the magazine detachable via magnets. Here's a comparison to a Hasbro conversion I was doing concurrently. Scope rail and scope are getting their paint but they should be dry tomorrow. Then a little more putty on the Hengstler and it'll be ready for painting. Home stretch in sight.....

I haven't used the stuff for plastic but I think I've seen a few horror stories on here about it. For armor or blaster or what? I just used this on two of my blasters and I was very happy. --------- I used two coats of that primer and then a layer of that same brand in Aluminum Metal. It looked fantastic but then I used the black gloss enamel as the final coat and didn't like it at all. Way too drippy and runny. My fingers were perfectly clean until I picked up that can of gloss enamel.

Four DL123 batteries would take up less room than 8 AAs and would still be 12V. Lighter too. More expensive, of course, but if purchased in bulk they can be had for around $1 each. Four batteries should power both fans (you'll need to change the wiring) for 8 hours but I'm not sure how comfortable I'd be with lithium batteries that close to my head in a confined space.

Have you done any runtime tests? At 90mA I think that battery would be lucky to last half an hour.

Don't think it's that easy since the Hasbro isn't scaled -- it's just different all together. From the rear to the grip, the Hasbro is more or less full-size (with a number of differences in detailing and feature sizes). It's from the grip forward that the length is considerably shortened. I think if you just shorten the overall length of the stock without really scaling the rest you'll be closer to what you're looking for. You might take a look at this thread for some ideas.

No stye on the A.N.H. from Imperial Surplus either.

Taking my son (and wife) to see Elmo Live on Saturday and then Sunday with my Dad.

Thanks all. Got the bottom and the sides glued but the top it gonna be kinda tough since the helmet is already assembled. Doesn't seem to show from the outside though. Maybe it'll just be extra ventilation.

It's time to install the lenses in my FX helmet and I'm not sure how to go about it. The FX has very little "lip" to apply the glue to and I can't see how it's not going to spread out on to the lens and be visible from the outside. I saw the thread where someone made little threaded Fimo spacers to glue into the helmet and I do like that idea but so far I've been unable to shape the spacers and then get them out again for baking without changing the shape. Any tips for the hot-glueing or any other method? I'm using Smitty's flat lenses BTW. Thanks

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The original post showing the parallel wiring should be louder than the series wiring but both will depend upon the amp being used.

Ian McDiarmid played the emperor in 1-3 and 6. He was edited into 5SE but the original used Clive Revill for the voice and had some special effect compositing of a chimpanzee and an old woman for the face.

I asked him about that one and he "believes" it to be a TE.