PGHtrooper21

How I use E6000 is I make sure that I have my "Clamps, Tape, magnets, paper, etc..." all ready, I use a utility knife to lightly score the side that I put the glue on. Let it sit for 5 - ten min. depending on air temp. Put the pieces together. Use the "Clamps, Tape, Magnets,etc..." and let it set. I like to use the glue in the evening. The reason why, so it can sit overnight. By the time I get home frorm work and having dinner, "24 Hours" has passed and then I can remove the "Clamps, Tape Magnets, etc...". Also I like to let the part that I am working on air out fo a few days. A good tip for working with E6000, use it outside and use a resperator an not a dust mask! The Fumes are Tough! Andy

Thanks for Posting this!!!! That Was Funny!!!! Been a Pro Wrestling Fan since the mid 70's! My Soap Opera!!!! Andy

I remember seing the ad for the Helmet back in 77-78. I wanted one soo bad. In the ad "Don Post" used pics from the movies to get people to buy the helmet. Later on they used pics of the 'Don Post" helmet. They were $50.00 U.S. when they were first out on the market. Back then It was neat owing the Darth Vader and Stormtrooper helmet. You did not have the internet with access to info about building props and armor like we do today. Over the years "Don Post" made changes to the Helmet. Andy

In the back at the bottom of your thighs, it looks like they have shap edges where they are rounded. Round them off by sanding. You do not want to cut yourself when walking. looks Great! Like what the others said about adjusting the rivits of the Holster and adding "Elastic" to the Sholder Ribs. Andy

Nice build! You did a Gret Job! Andy

Keen Eye Paul! Good Work! Andy

The "Cocking Handle" is there. The "Ejection Port" and the slot where the "Spring" is is welded shut. Also, the "Barrel" is replaced with a solid bar to pass U.S. BTAF Fire Arms Laws. Andy

I am glad that I got mine! Andy

Can you take and post clearer and close up pictures of the Sterling and the details like Rail , Counter TTrack, etc...? Andy

Sell it! The money you make put it toward a CFO Suit from Mark! You will be saving $$$$$$! If you want to make the Rubies acceptable, buy a CFO from Mark and assemble it from scratch and go for Centurion. After that compare both the Rubies and CFO and after you see the differences ask yourself if you want to mod the Rubies? Andy

I am from Pittsburgh, Pa. 21 is the number of former and favorite Pittsburgh Penguin "Michele Briere. 21 is the number of Pittsburgh Pirate, "Great One" "Roberto Clemente". Also the number is in memory of my Grandfather. 21 was the number that I use when I played "Ice Hockey" in High School. Andy

That looks AWESOME! I was thinking of doing that. I am 5 Foot 3 inches and That might help me in my suit! Andy

I chose not to install the mesh. They did not use them on the set. Andy

I like how the eyes have some excess trim arround the eyes. It looks AWESOME! Andy

Steve, That is a GREAT BUILD. Andy

Do I have the shins right? Andy

Next up is gluing the 'Sniper Plate" and "Cover Strips" on The back of the Shins.

I removed the tape and used my Utility Knife to trim off the excess glue.

Another almost set back on the first shin. When gluing, at first I put the glue on the inside of the shin, instead of the outside of the shin. To prevent this I used 'Blue Painters tape to remind me of to put glue on the outside of the shin. Also, I used "Blue Painters tape over the magnets to help with the hold. As I noticed that the shins spread a bit when I used just magnets and clamps on the first shin. I let the shin sit for three days.

On the second shin, I used the Utility Knife to help spread the shin apart. I repeated the same process as I did on the first shin.

I got out my magnets. When using the magnets, I put Blue Masking arround the magnets to prevent any markings on the shins. I scored the other front side of the shin. Spread on the glue. Let it sit for 5 - 7 minutes and put the other side on using Spring Clamps and Magnets to hold everything in place and let the shin sit for 3 days. I kept Velco on the back to keep the shin aligned and to help with the hold.

I had a setback when using the glue. I had not used the tube of E6000 in a year and the glue turned to gell and had to go out and buy two more tubes. This is a good tip to learn by. After a few days, I went to glue the other half on the first half. I first removed the Spring Clamps and used my Utility Knife to peal off excess glue that worked its way out along the sides.

Next, I begin to glue the "Cover Strip" to the front of the one side of the shin. Normally you glue a strip on the back of the shin then glue the "Cover Strips" on top of the seam. I saw this approach on a few builds and wanted to try this. Also, I was having bad luck with the strip on the back holding on to the front when I did my "Theighs". I bought a "Respirator" to help with the fumes when I am using the E6000. I also used a Craft Stick, a Stop Watch, Spring Clamps, and Newspaper. I opened up and read the instructions for the Respirator and adjusted it on myself, I scored one side of the cover strip and the front of the Shin to help with the hold of the glue. I opened up the E6000 and spread it on the both the Cover Strip and the front of the shin and spread the glue with the craft stick and started the stop watchand let the two pieces sit for 5 to 7 min. After, 7 minutes I placed the Cover Strip on the Shin and used the Spring Clamps to hold the Cover Strip in place. I let the piece sit for a few days to cure.