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PGHtrooper21

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Everything posted by PGHtrooper21

  1. Can you take and post clearer and close up pictures of the Sterling and the details like Rail , Counter TTrack, etc...? Andy
  2. Sell it! The money you make put it toward a CFO Suit from Mark! You will be saving $$$$$$! If you want to make the Rubies acceptable, buy a CFO from Mark and assemble it from scratch and go for Centurion. After that compare both the Rubies and CFO and after you see the differences ask yourself if you want to mod the Rubies? Andy
  3. I am from Pittsburgh, Pa. 21 is the number of former and favorite Pittsburgh Penguin "Michele Briere. 21 is the number of Pittsburgh Pirate, "Great One" "Roberto Clemente". Also the number is in memory of my Grandfather. 21 was the number that I use when I played "Ice Hockey" in High School. Andy
  4. That looks AWESOME! I was thinking of doing that. I am 5 Foot 3 inches and That might help me in my suit! Andy
  5. I chose not to install the mesh. They did not use them on the set. Andy
  6. I like how the eyes have some excess trim arround the eyes. It looks AWESOME! Andy
  7. Steve, That is a GREAT BUILD. Andy
  8. Do I have the shins right? Andy
  9. Next up is gluing the 'Sniper Plate" and "Cover Strips" on The back of the Shins.
  10. I removed the tape and used my Utility Knife to trim off the excess glue.
  11. Another almost set back on the first shin. When gluing, at first I put the glue on the inside of the shin, instead of the outside of the shin. To prevent this I used 'Blue Painters tape to remind me of to put glue on the outside of the shin. Also, I used "Blue Painters tape over the magnets to help with the hold. As I noticed that the shins spread a bit when I used just magnets and clamps on the first shin. I let the shin sit for three days.
  12. On the second shin, I used the Utility Knife to help spread the shin apart. I repeated the same process as I did on the first shin.
  13. I got out my magnets. When using the magnets, I put Blue Masking arround the magnets to prevent any markings on the shins. I scored the other front side of the shin. Spread on the glue. Let it sit for 5 - 7 minutes and put the other side on using Spring Clamps and Magnets to hold everything in place and let the shin sit for 3 days. I kept Velco on the back to keep the shin aligned and to help with the hold.
  14. I had a setback when using the glue. I had not used the tube of E6000 in a year and the glue turned to gell and had to go out and buy two more tubes. This is a good tip to learn by. After a few days, I went to glue the other half on the first half. I first removed the Spring Clamps and used my Utility Knife to peal off excess glue that worked its way out along the sides.
  15. Next, I begin to glue the "Cover Strip" to the front of the one side of the shin. Normally you glue a strip on the back of the shin then glue the "Cover Strips" on top of the seam. I saw this approach on a few builds and wanted to try this. Also, I was having bad luck with the strip on the back holding on to the front when I did my "Theighs". I bought a "Respirator" to help with the fumes when I am using the E6000. I also used a Craft Stick, a Stop Watch, Spring Clamps, and Newspaper. I opened up and read the instructions for the Respirator and adjusted it on myself, I scored one side of the cover strip and the front of the Shin to help with the hold of the glue. I opened up the E6000 and spread it on the both the Cover Strip and the front of the shin and spread the glue with the craft stick and started the stop watchand let the two pieces sit for 5 to 7 min. After, 7 minutes I placed the Cover Strip on the Shin and used the Spring Clamps to hold the Cover Strip in place. I let the piece sit for a few days to cure.
  16. I got out one of the strips that came with my kit and began to measure, mark off, and cut two "23cm Strips". "23cm Strips" wide and 14 inches long. Before I cut the cover strips, I used a tape measure to measure the length of the shins so I can measure and mark off the length on the cover strips. To help with the cut I used a Metal Ruler to make a line allong the pencil marks and to help during the score and snap. After the strips were cut, I used the sanding sponge to smooth the edges.
  17. I repeated the steps on the other side of the shin.
  18. Next up I began to trim off the front of each side of the shin. I want to use "23cm" "Cover Strips", I will measure off "12.5cm" on both the left and right side of the shin. I used a pencil and made markings on the back of each side of the shin. I used a "Plastic Sign" to make a straight line through the marks. I also used "Blue Painters Tape" allong the line to help when cutting. I got out my Gloves and Utility Blade , and cutting mat and began to score and cut. After the cut, I used a sanding sponge to smooth the ends.
  19. AP Shin Redo. I am in the process of redoing my shins. I din this for two reasons. 1. I overlapped the shins the first time. 2. I used a tape adheasive instead of using E6000. After a while, when I was looking at my shins, I kept wanting to redo them by using glue. Everytime I got the bug in me it was in the Fall and Winter. With the cold and Christmas and everything with that I put it off. Also, I did not want to glue inside with the fumes from E6000. After I took a break with my Dummy Sterling build, I decided that it was late Spring and the weather is right to redo my shins. The first shin opened easy. After the Shin was Split apart, I started to remove the adheasive. I was pleased that the "adheasive" came off without any hassel.
  20. Congrats to the fans of the L.A. Kings on winning the 2012 Stanley Cup! What a Great Run! Andy
  21. Will do prayers sent! Andy
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