troopermaster

Thanks Wait until you see the pieces on an ab plate. I think you will like the new look

Had a go at making one like this recently. Got the butto strip and rivet covers done now too. More pics of parts on armour up soon!

Plastic is Kydex.

I have copied a message from the RPF of the guy who helped make the new Disney suits....

Check out this AP build by Pete (stukatrooper). Pretty much says the same as Rich-------------

Black mesh on the hero helmet at C4.

Congratulations TK4347

Most replica suits are undersized.

It definitely has potential. I just felt it was going to be too much work to cast it and have to extend all the parts then try and shape everything back to how it should be. That's why I didn't buy it when I had the opportunity. Looking at the photos it is a nice suit and I hope it will be of some use to Mark. Do I recall the helmet being made of fibreglass?

Good acting there Steve

Well, I can see you like a challenge and I look forward to seeing what you do with this

Yeah, the bells are not too bad, but still not full size. I think you will find most of the parts are a few inches shorter than what they should be and I would hazzard a guess the guy wearing it in the photos above is around 6' tall. I do have some photos of some of these parts next to my TM parts and they are quite a bit shorter. I think it is a shame they modifed and cut these Disney suits down so much because they would have been a great base for an ROTJ kit.

The is not as much of a bubble as on some of the other lenses out there. I have made lenses that look close to the orignals but vision is terrible, so now I have a slight bubble towards the outsides and try and leave the inner sides flatter for better vision. I think you have to compromise when it comes to bubble lenses.

Looking more closely at this suit I believe it is the one I was going to buy from JS.

Don't get too lazy mate or you'll have to start adding side shims to your armour and I don't see any of those in the photo above

Hi Rob, The gloves look to be bunched up. You can see this in the movie just as Vader enters Tantive IV with these troopers behind him in the opening scenes. Remember these are domestic rubber gloves with latex guards glued on. They had to be put on after the armour was on and tucked inside the wrists, but I guess this trooper got a bit lazy

I would be surprised if you used any of thse parts for casting. All of the parts are seriously chopped down. Only parts I can see of any use are the 02 canister, hand plates and knee plate - everything else is undersized or modified. It's a nice keepsake and I just hope it is worth the price you paid. I almost bought one a few years ago from 'J' but after seeing detailed photos of it I passed on it.

Don't cut the forearm...it's just his glove not tucked in and covering it

Wise words from Rich Although I would recommend heating the ammo strap on the thigh to get the desired curve. I have heard many a report of them snapping under pressure on the acrylic capped suits. No problem with regular ABS though

You can see why they put the ammo strap on the right thigh to hide the bad join. Same thing for the left shin too. The left inner and outer parts differ in size too and the sniper plate conveniently hides that mis-alignment too. The mis-match of parts must have happened during the clean up stage of the plaster moulds before the fibreglass plugs were made back at Elstree. I doubt Brian would have sculpted them that way.

I don't see why anyone would want to use magnets when snaps do a perfectly good job. Personally I wouldn't use anything other than snaps and I didn't spend two years searching for the original Newey snaps to use anything less

This suit is made of 1.5mm regular ABS and yes, it is movie strapping. Thigh straps are 3" wide.

I've been using one of these for years and never had any problems. --------- *edit* I forgot to mention your vario pliers will be no good for the snaps on your ab plate that you connect your belt to. They are only good for snaps close to the edge of your armour or making snap plates.

Yes. Just make sure that you leave at least half the width of your joining strip which is usually between 15mm and 17mm wide. Go wider if you need to. Do the same for the legs but use 20mm to 22mm for a standard build or wider if you need to.