troopermaster

Ey ey! Calm down! Calm down!

He means you have put the cover strip at the back on the wrong side. They should be fixed to the outer half and not the inner like you have done.

For punching holes in the elastic, I just use scissors. If you have a leather punch then that would be better. Just make sure you use the washers behind every rivet. 8 split rivets. 6 for the sides, 1 for the crotch and 1 spare. E6000 is semi permanent adhesive. It will stick to your armour as good as any other adhesive but can also be pulled off with force and leave no traces on the plastic. It's very good stuff!

Thanks Suit #4 is under construction http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=1612&st=80#entry227336

M3.5 brass slotted machine screws are what you are looking for. I have 100's if you can't find any

You only need to leave a larger return edge where the original strapping will fix so you have somewhere to screw the brackets to. Everywhere else can have a minimal return like you have at the top of your back plate. The places where you need a larger return edge are: -Lower back -Upper kidney -Lower kidney -Upper butt -Upper abdomen -Lower chest These are where you strapping brackets will be fixed to. You can make these edges 3/8" or less and the rest of the armour 1/8" or less. PM me when you are ready to attach any of the strapping system so you get it right first time.

Wise words indeed. Ask any questions if you are unsure about anything. You have everything in your kit to build a really nice screen accurate replica and I would hate for you to make any mistakes. Best use Joey's thread for reference as it is the same kit and was built using everything you have with your original strapping. All the bracket placements, straps, rivets are all in their correct places and you won't go wrong using that thread and the LFL archive photos to double check. Good luck with the build and enjoy it

Absolutely! Deact Sterlings would be nice too

Thanks Paul Let's hope more sceen accurate parts become popular. I would love to see at least a full squad of troops all wearing flexible, accurate armour with original strapping, latex hand plates, painted boots, khaki PP helmets painted white.....oh a dream come true

Never considered it Vern and I have no intentions of doing it either. As Martin says, screen accurate all the way

I can't see how this is possible. The thighs are not heavy enough to pull the elastic to make them sag. Elastic pulls the thigh upwards when there is tension on the elastic straps. If you have a leather or web belt holding the elastic straps in place and your elastic straps are short enough so there is tension o them when worn then how can they possibly sag? Webbing does not stretch and your thighs will just be hanging off your straps rather than pulling them up. When you bend over your thighs will sag down where elastic will keep them up. If your belt is sagging down the use some kind of braces or suspenders over your shoulders to prevent them moving.

That's where your problem is. Elastic keeps the thighs pulled up where nylon webbing just keeps them hanging instead of pulling up. Make the elastic slightly shorter than you want so there is always tension on the straps. Your waist belt it fine and should stay put with no problems if secured tight enough.

Thanks for the screen caps Cristian They certainly do look as though the mags are cut down and much shorter than the 10 round mag. Time to get the hacksaw out

I see the welds when I look at the original size photo. Only problem I see is this is not an original ANH blaster and not even sure if it is a screen used ESB blaster. I have seen E-11's on display that have been cobbled together and claim to be original when they are not. My main interest is in ANH so using this as reference is pointless really.

You can get the elastic on ebay. It is 1/4" white elastic and you just tie it around your shoulder straps and back plate to make a loop.

I know how to cut the mags down and make a slight return lip for the cap to fit onto, that is no problem for me to do. But like I said, I was interested in knowing if they used the manufactured 10 round mag originally in ANH. I realise most of the E-11 were knocked up from chopped down Sterlings or resin copies, and some were real blank firing weapons which must have had working magazines if they fired more than one shot. A blank could have in the breech for a single shot though. Basically, I have the opportunity to buy a real 10 round mag but it is like 4 times more than a standard mag which is why I asked the question

That's interesting. The way to tell if mags have been cut down is the grooves in the body will go all the way to the spring retaining plate where original short mags will finish just short of the plate. I was hoping someone might know about the mags or maybe have a good photo of a real ANH blaster to show what they were like. It's no big deal having to cut down the mags but I would rather get an original short mag 'if' that is what was used on screen.

That is what I want to avoid Vern

I could but they are over a two hour drive away from where I live and I could buy another mag for the cost of fuel I would use getting there. I think I will do more research on the lengths of the mags to see which one will be better suited. The blasters are something I have never paid much attention to but now I have all the real parts to build my blaster I want to get the real mag instead of the massive 34 round banana magazine.

Does anyone know if the original mags used on the E-11 are 10 or 15 round capacity? I don't think they were chopped down originally and know that 10 and 15 round mags are available for the Sterling, so I would like to hear from anyone who may have one of these mags to see which one is more suitable for the E-11. I have found a supplier but the mags are expensive, so I would like to get the right one first time

I'll start a for sale thread when I have got made up.

Will do mate when I buy some more latex. Already got the Plasti-dip ready and waiting

PM sent Joey.

No chance at the moment as the moulds are being worked on and not usable. Ask me again in a few weeks

The main areas for the return edges are on the torso. This is where the original strapping fixed to on the movie suits. All other parts like arms and legs had minimal to zero return edges.