troopermaster

If you are going for an ANH/ESB butt joining you want to leave 8-9mm flat edge for half of the joining strip to fix to.

Only on the outside

Not really. Just cut where the joining line is and add your shim. You could rivet the shim in place or glue it, and it will all be behind your ammo belt. That is assuming you want to make the ab plate meet up with your extended kidney plate. Doing one without the other will make the armour off balance in my opinion.

You could add the shim to the lower edge of your kidney and you could also add one the same thickness to the bottom of your abdominal plate if you split it. This would make both pieces longer and the shims would be hidden by your belt.

Those are close, but these are perfect -----------

I love it

Those look fine to me. You may not be aware that the original pieces did not line up perfectly and you just need to trim the tallest part down to match if it bothers you, or you can make your joining strip fit the tallest side and cover the smaller side. See how the tops have been trimmed inside the original thighs.

If anyone needs the correct 68mm grey PVC pipe just send me a PM. This is not the readily available light grey pipe you can get from B&Q, it's dark grey and a perfect match to the screen used original pipes

When you eventually remove the epoxy you really should use E6000. It is soooo much better than any other adhesive and a must for trooper armour!

Yeah, I've done a bit of work on the biceps and a few other parts of the armour recently.

Ignore both these suggestions. You have the biceps set perfectly and EVERYONE else has them too high which is WRONG! I think you have been looking at too many replicas to come up with this conclusion. ONLY use screen caps when building armour, NOT other peoples interpretations of what is seen on screen as 9 times out of 10 they usually get it WRONG A bit of a gap at the sides is fine and I think the 'no gap' rule is a bit stupid seeing how the gaps can be seen in the movies. But, I will agree with DA and say the back plate could be higher to stop the overalp onto your kidney plate. Do this by making the back shoulder tabs closer to the chest shoulder tabs. If they are already touching then you will have to cut the back tabs to allow the back to ride up higher.

Looks awesome!!!

Grey pipe is as accurate as you can get

Must be a trooper from the Deaf Star

Sounds like a challenge I've just finished a new ANH TD canister mould and feel like tackling an ROTJ. I agree with what you say and think I can make a very good replica. These are not hard to make, especially as I have a few of these on their way to me

Yeah, you might be putting too much on. I have never had any problems with Humbrol paints. Best to have two decent brushes - a thin brush and a thick brush. Use the thin one for the border to get a nice neat edge on the outside and use the thick brush to fill it in. Keep your brush strokes in one direction and try and keep an even coat of paint.

What kind of paint are you using?

In that case there is no way to get it wrong If your using velcro to close the back that should help with the misalignment. If not, then you will have to off-set the parts at the front so it lines up at the back, or vice versa. Just remember the joining strip on the back goes on the outer half. Just an FYI, the AP did used to have three seperate parts with only one part doubled up. Looking back it was the inner left that was missing.

Can you take a pic of all the parts and I can tell you which part goes where. I remember now that the AP does not have four seperate parts and some doubled, and I believe it is the inner left part, but better to post a pic to make sure you get them right.

The reason they are not lining up too well is because you are using both the outer halves of the shins instead of using an inner and outer half.

It's a 2mm kit. Take your time with the build and ask any questions if you get stuck with anything. And keep that young Jedi away from your new shiny kit

Happy New Year

Here is the interior shot for you.

I don't think you need to make them bigger. Remember this is a hero helmet and not a stunt. The frown is half the size of a stunt so no need to make the teeth gaps bigger.

I think you are not looking at the holster properly. Take a look at more photos or screen caps and you'll see the holsters are pretty much the same as my design (although the TM blueprints have been updated a while back). If you look at the bottom and see how it seems to taper, this is simply because the bottom is more tubular and flattens out towards the top. Most of the holsters look flat in ANH, but they are designed to be kind of tubular to hold the blaster. I haven't spent too much time looking into the holsters over the past few years so can't really say too much about them, but I am keen to see where you end up with this. Looking at the RS/Simon holster, it is definitely a holster worn by the Death Star Troopers/Guards. Look when Vader and the Guards go into the detention cell to see Leia, the same holsters can be seen clearly on them. ----------