Darth_Nickel

I just used testors black glossy enamel and brushed it in. Gave it a nice shine too:) Had to do a few coats, but I like how it turned out. On my first bucket, I just used black spray paint. That worked too. Just be careful of over spray.

Did you tell him it's not a mask... it's an Empire Armory issued protective helmet??? Duh....mask… come one man…

My personal thought Kevin is that your bucket is perfect. It offers a "different" take being one piece and is amazing. That said... hell yea I would take one of your vac-formed models. I think you hit the nail on the head. My preference would be not to make it bigger or smaller (if anything a tiny tiny tiny little bit larger for the large-noggin guys and people who love to add electronics) Just my 2 cents.

I just thought I would add my 2 cents. I recently picked up a ANHv2. It's a sweet bucket, there is NO DOUBT!!! It's very solid, and so far been pretty easy to work with. I've got a ton of more work to do still, but overall it's turning out VERY well (with little effort). I also have to say... Kevin is a great guy to deal with and if you are looking at the ANHv2 you will not be dissatisfied. Be sure to also check out ALL your options. There are a lot of great buckets out there. Just to list my favorites so far.... TE2 ANHv2 TE TM I'm sure the list will grow… I've honestly never met a TK bucket I didn't like…

I would like to make a suggesting that the forum search flood control be changed to allow searches of less than 4 characters. Here is an example. I was trying to find a thread on the RT-Mod bucket (I knew it was out there, but not where) The user that posted didn't type out RT-MOD, they used RT MOD. The search feature will not allow someone to search on RT or MOD since there is a limit of 4 characters for searching.

I've also heard that some garrisons or groups of people within a garrison will all paint the same (just to be uniform). I can't recall who or where I heard that at the moment. Either way it's not a big deal... I think some people just do it to show that they are "together" the others posted here hit the nail on the head.. there seems to be no rhyme nor reason to the amount of strips. Fan's choice...

It has to be dirty to have something to shine... right???? Now we can start a thread of "How do you SHINE your dirty armor..."

You ARE a master Chazz!!! Don't sell yourself short man. Your work is amazing. I love that it never comes out the same. I think it adds to the weather effect. Thank you very much for sharing with me what you know!!! It's a blast to weather this way (it takes time) but it's a lot of fun in the process. So you like the little twist I added? I also like where the primer is light in areas, it adds another effect similar to the bare ABS look. The way you taught me gives the finished product a nice layered and chipped look to it.

Day late and a dollar short... but here is what I do. I was taught by another master, so I can't take credit for this. I've changed the process a little, to add my own twist, but it's the same idea I prep the area that's going to be weathered with sandable primer. *NOTE It adds an odd effect that I've not found with anything else (This is optional, and not what was taught to me) I use cheap acrylic paints. the cheaper the better... Same types of colors as above. Dark browns, Light browns, grays, tans, etc... mix and match, you can't go wrong. Dab on with a sponge brush Dab off it a paper towel (sound familiar) Here's the twist... if you used the primer and didn't use a glossy coat... IT DOESN'T COME OFF.... crap... Now dab with a wet wash cloth of some sorts Scrub with a wet wash cloth of some sort (just don't scrub too hard and don't "wipe" you don't want to have a weathering pattern that looks like it was wiped down (unless that's what you are going for.. )) If you find an area you don't like, has sanding marks, mood hits you right, whatever... re prime, lightly or dark, and do it again.. Go dark to light, light to dark... it doesn't matter. I always finish with a light tan and a wash of gray.. Here's what I ended up with... as an example... Ab in progess...

Just my 2 cents Matt. I really hope you do this!!! I'm really looking forward to getting some good trim (funny on 2 levels...). Fingers crossed!!!

I added a smal piece of velcro on the bottom of my ab and a small piece of velcro to the inside of the belt. Just to make sure it stays in place. Now on my belt thats on the way... there is velcro lined all around...

I assume you are talking about the Kidney and Ab sections. If you are closing the gap, I think most people match what they are doing on both sides. Either use ABS or use Elastic, but not both on different sides. I prefer the ABS option.... damn little Ewoks.... those sticks are sharp.

I'm in!!! Even at 2.00 a foot. I think you are right Paul. 2-2.5 seems right per bucket. Hell, if that’s the case I'll buy enough for 5-7 buckets just to have some extra for future projects.

I put the belt on, then held and marked where I wanted the plate (it ended up almost dead center) I used snaps to attach my front plate, and have never had a problem with it popping off (save the first time I wore it and the GLUE not the snap popped. A little glue from our Vader's repair kit and I was all set. ). I would suggest if using snaps that you try to countersink the plastic that you attach the snap to. That way the rear of the button is flatter to the ABS and it's easier to glue. If not, just be sure to use a good amount of glue. I also like the option of being able to remove my front plate if needed. That's just me…

Interested pending price.

No TKs you say..... Check these out...

Matt, PM sent!!! I've been looking for a thin box for my hyperdyne for what seems like FOREVER!!!

Odd thread... I like Salmon, just thought I say...

I too wired my first one wrong (like the first diagram) and had the same problem. Luckily, I never installed them and found the solution before much time passed (no explosion). Another symptom I saw was that the fan was "on" in the switches off position (button raised) and once the button was depressed in the "on" position it turned off. Is that they way yours works? Just rewire to TK 4205's specifications and you will be on easy street again!!!

WOW. Just WOW. It looks amazing Thannk you very much for posting the picture. I don't even know what questions to ask first... ok... I do know. I've never seen nor have I heard that much, so I figure, why not ask... What does the strapping system inside look like?

Jez, I can't say I know much about all this stuff, but I do know this.... Just to set the record straight on TE's ban... they were self induced. At least the RPF ban. Once a person states they want to be banned, it's forever. Check the banned names thread. I find this topic interesting, and I look forward to learning more about the molds.

It's correct. FX goes OVER the dome, not under. It's another fun inaccuracy of the FX bucket.

I have fans in the back vents and wear my headliner close to the front. It works ok, but it's still tight (if I move wrong, I can feel them) I keep my hair pretty short (what's left of it anyway....) but I can still feel it clip every once in a while. I would suggest this mod if you can fit it. The back vents really do help. Since adding fans to the eyes and the back vents I have never had a problem with fog (which was an issue) Sweat.... still an issue...

What are you looking for? David here has some nice dark green ones.

Very interesting. I've never heard of that before. Nice work man. It looks great.