Digz Graavz

From Ukswrath's build thread: "And finally, the screws are to be painted black for L3. Mine are painted using semi gloss" I'm not sure anyone nitpicks to that level though.... Correct me if I am wrong experts!

600-800 grit and keep it wet. Make sure you get wet-sand compatible paper otherwise it will fall apart. Try leaving it in the sun for a while as that can fade it a bit too. There's a good chance your armor has changed over time. Worst case, go to a reliable paint store and take a piece with you. Get them to colour match it. We sell SICO paint where I work and the matches we can do on "whites" are pretty amazing. Only thing is that it would be a latex acrylic, so you'd need to sand and prime the piece first and then wet-sand the crap out of it to get a good shine.

Yeah that's what I have (same split rivets as the ab). The ones in the photos above look oversized.

Rivets on the thigh ammo are acceptable like that? Just asking as I will be submitting soon too. Nice work!

My standard when building this was "If I were 6 years old, and some Stormtrooper handed this to me, would I care about that blob of paint or be too busy freaking out?" My resin one on the other hand.... LOL.

Yes, 2cm = 20mm. As said, no one is going to measure them. You can also go by these almost exact equivalents: 1" = 25mm 3/4" = 18.5mm 5/8" = 15.5mm 1/2" = 12.5mm 3/8" = 9mm 1/4" = 6mm So for your 15mm cover strips, go with 5/8" For your 20mm cover strips, go 2cm if you have that, or just over 3/4" For your 25mm cover strips (backs of shins) go with 1" There are lots of online converters as well, such as: https://www.rapidtables.com/convert/length/mm-to-inch.html

I also just completed an AP ANH stunt so feel free to PM me with any questions or check out my build thread. Have fun!

Chicago rivets/Chicago screws are a 2 part where 1 side looks like a flat headed screw and the other half is a threaded tube with a head. When screwed together they're basically like a rivet. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sex_bolt For the TD you want, if going for Centurion, to have (from UK's build) " They should be pan head and slotted, not "V" shape, Philips. Those shooting for L3 I strongly encourage you to replace them with something similar to canon. I'll be using #6 x 3/8". These are slightly larger then what's seen used on the canon TD but are the correct shape. " You'll need to paint them black. Here's a pic from my build thread:

Still a couple of paint touchups to do, but I have to go to work. Here's what I've got (bottom is my resin E11)

Bolt installed, little knob thingy by the muzzle cooling things installed, lens installed, selector switch installed. It's glued back together and clamped now to dry. I used E6000 instead of CA, so it will take a bit more time. The power cylinders are printing now and are a quick glue on. After that it's fill and paint which won't take a horribly long time. It should be all done tomorrow morning as I am waiting on the E6000 to set up.

More paint drying... still waiting on the 3d print before I can proceed. Here's what I have done to the blaster so far: -Sanded down the T strips to be flat -Cut notches in the end of the folding stock and installed a backer plate -Drilled the holes in the barrel cooler -Drilled holes in the bottom of the folding stock under the barrel and installed a backing plate -Drilled holes in the front sight -Drilled out the lenses in the scope -Cut out the ejector slot -Cut out a bolt slot -Removed guts so that the bolt has a full cylinder, patching with masking tape coated in E6000 (I am calling this Stormtrooper Papier Maché) -Installed a sheet of ABS to make a bolt -Carved grooves in the magazine -Sanded off the "Rubies TM" lettering -Cut to shape and glued in a plate to make the area around the selector switch look accurate -Base coat of flat black anywhere that ends up being flat black (basically all but the handle) including any visible interior areas -Base coat of brass on the scope - - - - - - Still to do: -Install the bolt lever thingy -Install the selector switch -Install the lenses in the scope -Glue it back together -Attach the stock retaining clip -Print and install the power cylinders -Fill all holes/seams -Sand -Final paint/weathering -Glue lens on the counter

Trying a 1 day build on a Rubies. It's not going to be super detailed but I've made some mods. Here's my thread:

Black base coat on while the greeblies print. If I had done them ahead of time I'd tear through this.

Roughly 2-2 1/2 hours and I'm pretty much ready to glue it back together. At some point I'll probably make a new trigger guard but I don't have the materials at hand for that. I still need to attach the front screws on the barrel, put the lenses in the scope and on the counter, 3d print and attach the bolt puller thingy and the selector switch then fill/sand and paint. This is definitely doable in 1 day.

So I picked up a couple of Rubies E11s on the advice of a few members so that the younglings can have something to handle other than my good showpiece. I've seen some great mods and I don't think I'm up to one one a super scale yet, but I think I can do a passable upgrade and a vast improvement to the Etsy slap-dash jobs. Here's my quick list: Sand down the T Tracks Drill out the barrel cooling holes Drill out the matching holes in the folding stock Drill out the front sight Drill out the scope and add lenses Add power cylinders Add selector switch Add stock retainer clip Add set screws to barrel Add sliding bolt Add lens to counter Assorted minor fills for screws etc. I'm sure I'll add more, but that's where I am starting. Many photos to follow.

I found some on Etsy with the worst paint jobs ever and selling for stupid money. I'll see how mine go and maybe start a side business...

As per advice, I trimmed the back cover strips on my shins so that they end before the mouldings: I've also ordered a couple of Rubies blasters that I will mod and paint up to have as kid-resistant props. My good blaster is too nice to hand out.

Great job!

Done Bit of reglue and ABS paste.

Ah OK. 2 minute fix Thanks for catching it and the clarification.

Cover strips were a bit strange for me, as some references have them covering and I like that look so that there's not a visible seam::

Her response: I'm so happy that got shared so that they know how they helped me out. Thank you. I never felt I got a chance to thank them enough and now, maybe they will know how much I appreciated them.

Belt shortened:

Yeah I used the Lepage 2 part (boughtat RONA as I work there. Rob's a CT guy) Gloves were from Mark at AP. It's totally my fault the mess up on them. They're passable for now but I want perfection I will play with scraps and see what I can get to work. If E6000 will then I want to go that route.

It's not his fault. The reactor leak made the floor slippery.