FN1313

Good work! I’m sure beyond looking good you feel even better! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I’d recommend a Dremel with the metal cutting disk and guard (preventing hot metal flakes from hitting you). Also a sanding bit to smooth the cut corners when done. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Looking good. Agree on the elastic, but hey, that’s not a hard fix if you ever choose to do it. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

And now we know why Anakin never built his own full armor and had it bought, commissioned and custom fitted by Palpatine. He hate’s sand(ing) Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Definitely this is an extremely valuable thread. I’ve seen some detachments that don’t have this kind of extensive information and so you are definitely more at your own risk. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hello there! Welcome back to the FISD. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I had a Rubies armor for 3 or 4 years before I became an approved stormtrooper in 501st. If the mods you need to make seem way too much work, then that’s understandable. Something you can absolutely enjoy wearing and having fun with and then start saving up and planning ahead to get a kit that is more accurate to build from the start. Some members also when they realize their stormtrooper costumes or such need such extensive mods will usually start by getting a more simple costume for 501st approval and then over time build an accurate stormtrooper for their dream costume. This allows them the ability to be in the 501st while they are working up their major armor. Lots of options, but from my experience, I’d recommend enjoying your costume as you can and then when you upgrade it can become a great prop, or resell to someone who just wants a costume. Lots of options. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Paint of this caliber and process is a lot of fine details to be aware of. Honestly I can’t guarantee that there’s anything that will get things painted and ready before a con tomorrow. Most high end paints and clear coats require days of curing properly between steps so the chemicals don’t react negatively. First as gmrhodes13 indicated, pictures of what you are dealing with will help. Second, most of the time your color coat needs to have upwards of 72 hours to cure properly. In my experience, that’s generous, some rattle can color coats require a week so to be sure all the chemicals that are mixed in so they can work in a rattle can format before those chemicals have completely cured out. Then you can start working with clear coats. It also depends on the type of base coat vs. clear coat you are using. Many can be very reactive to one another, or in some cases clear coats as they cure actually contract the molecules together and can pull the color coat away from the base object depending on the adherence properties. So knowing what paints you are using and your process is valuable too. Finally, external factors. Humidity, temperature, wind, etc all have an impact on paint too. You definitely want to be aware of the manufacturers recommendations when using paints as well. For a perfect automotive style finish like most troopers want it’s almost an art to learn and get right. That being said it’s not too hard to do, just takes some proper planning and step by step procedures to get there. If you are looking for a quick win, then just a color coat layer will give you the paint you want before your con tomorrow, but don’t be surprised if it wears away during your trooping and you then have to go back and rework the paint. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Really enjoying the build here! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Looking good. Yeah I’d recommend the foam behind the knee as well. I just got some in for the fact that it should push it forward but also make it more comfortable to wear too. Getting closer! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

That 2K spraymax is fantastic stuff, just follow the instructions to the T and as mentioned, clean areas and masks absolutely. You’ll be amazed at how many particles will stick to it while it cures otherwise. Even more so how much the toxic fumes will absolutely fill out a space even one that is open to clear air. I did in my driveway and it was intoxicating even with my mask on. Further emphasis on the mask, make sure it’s a solid mask system with filters, not just a KN-95 or whatever those basic cover your cough style masks are. If you are working with just filling seams and then using abs paste, you likely won’t need this. I just filled seams and then used Novus 1-2-3 to polish with great effect. Anything outside that though, yes I recommend 2K, having had a Jim’s kit without knowing about this method of clear coat I only used a rustoleum clear coat on top and that thing wore out so fast just from the armor rubbing together that I was regularly fixing my biceps and thighs and repainting because the clear coat was not strong enough. You’ll want a urethane 2k clear coat. As mentioned the 2K spraymax glamour gloss is great. If you have an hvlp sprayer setup though that’s even better, just requires more skill and knowledge, but it’s less prone to the higher amount of orange peel that comes from rattle cans. Also be sure to give at least 72 hours between color coat and clear coat (I’d even venture to say a week just to be sure) as any curing of the chemicals of the color coat underneath that is happening while the clear coat is placed on top and curing will cause the clear coat to have worse orange peel and appearance. Fully cure color coat, then do the clear coat. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Figured I’d share a post from gmrhodes13 in another section about similar questions as he had a lot of valuable links. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19329-where-what-and-whom-to-avoid-when-buying/?do=findComment&comment=766468 My personal recommendation as it’s quite unlikely you’ll be able to get refunds (even people who have bought directly from Jedi Robe find that they won’t get a return) is to try seeing about selling on eBay and then purchasing from a vetted armor vendor. Here’s a topic that covers that https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/

It’s definitely Jedi Robe or Stormtrooper-costumes.com in terms of the molds. Likely could be an older model that didn’t have everything attached beforehand. Either way from what I’m aware there’s a lot of work that would need to be done to make it approvable. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

What’s worse is there’s a bunch of Social Media influencers who are going and buying stormtrooper costumes from places like Jedi robe and then posting all their videos with 501st hashtags etc. This is then leading astray people to buy these costumes thinking that the posters are 501st members and that their costume is going to be approved too. I actually commented on one the other day to just indicate whoever was interested “buyer beware” and “research before you buy” only to have everyone and their dog on the internet go on straight hate mail and crap for me to the point I just deleted my comments and had to say “Oh well, guess everyone can just learn the hard way.” Social media influencers doing what they do best… DDD armor is fantastic, that’s what mine is. He may have some slow times, but the wait will definitely turn up a fantastic kit!

Since when has DN/Anovos actually ever cared about the product vs. the $$$? Lol. (At least they have product now, so that’s a step in the right direction) I also can’t get past the ninja turtle looking feet with the armor.

To add to what gmrhodes13 has shared. I’ve seen a few DN kits coming through as submissions in my garrison. Out of the box they look great to the naked eye, but when comparing to screen references and CRLs there are some things that need to be fixed. Shoulder yoke seams, side seams, and the shin box seams all need to be filled/smoothed to be seamless. TD seems to be a TFA TD and not TLJ so that needs to be modified to match TLJ The gaskets sent by DN are stitched with the shiny side inside and not outside which makes the gaskets not approvable without altering or buying from a different vendor. Those are a few things I’ve noticed. What’s more to answer your question on the pre-assembled option, they are charging a pretty penny for assembly as gmrhodes13 said to get more for a quick kick out the door option. The problem I’ve seen here is members who have bought this method find that the armor doesn’t exactly fit them as it’s designed to fit someone who is super thin and has 0% body fat it feels. Lol. Considering how minimal the effort is to get this armor kit put together for basic approval I always will recommend get a kit instead and work with your garrison and/or a build thread on FISD for assistance and you’ll be able to get your kit built to your specifications and done right the first time. Beyond that the skills you will learn while building your armor are invaluable for knowing how to alter/repair your armor in the future. (Something that is inevitable). Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

A very good resource for sure. In terms of being too tall? Never. Nobody is ever too tall/short etc. for a stormtrooper costume. That’s the fun of it all. The 501st isn’t going to restrict members based on their body shape/size, sure modifications may be needed to adequately take an out of the box kit and make it fit, but it can be done for anyone. Regarding the resource above, there’s definitely armor that can accommodate your size. I had to actually trim down substantially parts of my armor from the kit I ordered which was a “larger” kit for my height, so I can say that there definitely are options. Beyond that, the members of the FISD are very welcoming and helpful in guiding how to build a costume to be approved in, so as you research and make a build thread you can find the help you need for sure! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I for one second the idea of leaving some gaps for airflow, it helps lenses not fog up, but that’s a personal preference and not required Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you have some strong wire cutters that can fit in that area you could also potentially snip them instead of drilling, it all depends on the area you have to work with and if the tool is strong enough. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you do decide to adjust it, it wouldn’t be too hard of a fix, just back the hole with scrap abs and then fill with abs paste and reattach with new holes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Can’t wait to see further progress. Commenting here so I can get notified and also add any help I can. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Yep, we will for sure be getting a build thread going here soon. Just so happens that I’m about to have my second child so she’s going to wait on me to have some time after this to help her get her build thread started. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I can’t echo enough the need to doublecheck the instructions on paints. I have done a number of methods as I’ve learned to do a Din Djarin beskar and it’s always frustrating. Here’s my knowledge and it depends on the paint process too. If you are using rattle cans, understand those are more prone to orange peeling, but first, make sure the environment is warm (check paint instructions) and the less humid the better. If you plan to do a 2k urethane clear coat on top (which I highly recommend for durability and shine) You could do a gloss white or even a matte white as the clear coat will shine it all up. I prefer matte when using urethane because it has less additives to make it less likely to orange peel. The best way is to do light layer coats over the surface more times. At first it won’t look well covered but over time 5-6 coats you’ll see that it covers completely, light coats are less likely to run and drip too. Give yourself 10 or so minutes between coats (again depends on paint instructions) After you’ve got the coverage you want let the paint sit for 72 hours or more (depends on paint) because it will need to cure and part of that process is all the chemicals drying out of the paint like bubbles coming up to the surface if you clear coat at the wrong time this curing can cause orange peeling in the clear coat. When doing clear coat 2k from a rattle can I recommend Spray Max glamour gloss. Definitely read the instructions on these cans as they are very particular, but I’d give it 2-3 layers of light coverage and then 1-2 layers of slightly more coverage. Again let sit for 72+ hours to cure. At this point you should be okay to go, however if you want to achieve a higher level of smooth shine you can go on to buff and polish like you would a car finish. If using an hvlp or lvl sprayer for your paint just pay attention to the instructions on the paints you use in detail. The biggest things are the psi to spray at and the coverage of paint. Usually I recommend testing on a similar surface (there are usually some model car plastic test pieces you can get really cheap in bulks) to see how your paint is going to look on your armor. This method has less overall chemicals so it tends to go on with less orange peel, but it still can happen, so similar processes as above. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Also double check that there’s no minor pock marks from the bubbles that develop from the acetone as the paste cures. I had to go a couple times over the areas to fill those pock holes with more abs paste before they started looking more smooth and correct overall. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I personally went legs first but I also have them held up with a nylon belt so they technically don’t strap to the rest of the armor. Beyond that I did torso then arms. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk