FN1313

If you do decide to adjust it, it wouldn’t be too hard of a fix, just back the hole with scrap abs and then fill with abs paste and reattach with new holes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Can’t wait to see further progress. Commenting here so I can get notified and also add any help I can. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Yep, we will for sure be getting a build thread going here soon. Just so happens that I’m about to have my second child so she’s going to wait on me to have some time after this to help her get her build thread started. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I can’t echo enough the need to doublecheck the instructions on paints. I have done a number of methods as I’ve learned to do a Din Djarin beskar and it’s always frustrating. Here’s my knowledge and it depends on the paint process too. If you are using rattle cans, understand those are more prone to orange peeling, but first, make sure the environment is warm (check paint instructions) and the less humid the better. If you plan to do a 2k urethane clear coat on top (which I highly recommend for durability and shine) You could do a gloss white or even a matte white as the clear coat will shine it all up. I prefer matte when using urethane because it has less additives to make it less likely to orange peel. The best way is to do light layer coats over the surface more times. At first it won’t look well covered but over time 5-6 coats you’ll see that it covers completely, light coats are less likely to run and drip too. Give yourself 10 or so minutes between coats (again depends on paint instructions) After you’ve got the coverage you want let the paint sit for 72 hours or more (depends on paint) because it will need to cure and part of that process is all the chemicals drying out of the paint like bubbles coming up to the surface if you clear coat at the wrong time this curing can cause orange peeling in the clear coat. When doing clear coat 2k from a rattle can I recommend Spray Max glamour gloss. Definitely read the instructions on these cans as they are very particular, but I’d give it 2-3 layers of light coverage and then 1-2 layers of slightly more coverage. Again let sit for 72+ hours to cure. At this point you should be okay to go, however if you want to achieve a higher level of smooth shine you can go on to buff and polish like you would a car finish. If using an hvlp or lvl sprayer for your paint just pay attention to the instructions on the paints you use in detail. The biggest things are the psi to spray at and the coverage of paint. Usually I recommend testing on a similar surface (there are usually some model car plastic test pieces you can get really cheap in bulks) to see how your paint is going to look on your armor. This method has less overall chemicals so it tends to go on with less orange peel, but it still can happen, so similar processes as above. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Also double check that there’s no minor pock marks from the bubbles that develop from the acetone as the paste cures. I had to go a couple times over the areas to fill those pock holes with more abs paste before they started looking more smooth and correct overall. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I personally went legs first but I also have them held up with a nylon belt so they technically don’t strap to the rest of the armor. Beyond that I did torso then arms. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Welcome! Feel free to start a build thread with your armor and that will allow you to share pictures using an image hosting site like Imgur. That will allow members to see your progress and give you guidance through your build. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

One other thing you might want to try doing is using a heat gun carefully to help the ammo belt shape itself to the bend. Right now at the bottom you see it flares out a little. This is because it’s not used to being bent around the thigh. I made this better on mine by lightly going over the belt with my heat gun, not heating to an extreme of warping or damage, but enough for it to start naturally taking the curved shape on. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Welcome sister person, We will definitely get things going to get you approved. Once you can let’s get a build thread started to highlight the process.

Yeah that’s more what I was intending in my previous comment is that the notch wasn’t necessary.

I’m not sure exactly which snaps you’re looking at, but I used Tandy leather snaps. For pretty much all my internal rigging I used Line 24 snaps which are sturdier and heavier duty. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Nice work! Keep up the progress. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I always recommend I trimmed armor to anyone who is considering getting any. My reasons are as such. - commissioned builds take longer and cost much more - commissioned builds don’t always fit properly and fit is part of approval - untrimmed teaches you how to build and manage armor so that you understand how to make repairs later (which will be needed at some point) - untrimmed allows you to build it uniquely to yourself - untrimmed allows you to learn as you share through a build thread. - untrimmed leaves plenty of leftover plastic so you can make abs paste for repairs later. I’ve seen good commissions before, but in most situations those reasons are why I say to build it from an untrimmed kit Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

The notch itself isn’t a requirement as such it’s okay that it doesn’t line up exactly. I’d recommend trimming as it’s intended to remove the extra plastic and leave the notch as is. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Good to know it was all for good reason. I’ve been looking forward to you finishing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Give it a few more whacks and it should get tighter. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Would be cool. Wish more characters were live action and not off of one off comics or things. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I also have some templates I put together for these. I know FISD has their own trading card templates, but if anyone was interested in these templates for FISD members I have them. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks for sharing! Good to know this information. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I personally feel that longevity is better achieved with the elastic and snaps method, sure it’s not exactly how they did it in the movies, but I like to have my armor avoid cracks as long as possible. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Yeah mine were also trial and error. My back and kidney originally ended up having a bit of a gap even when I thought I had them short, so I doubled up the elastic (for extra strength in the strain) and then shortened. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Had to dig into old pictures of the kit I had which I used her harness with, but here’s the general idea I had 4 male snaps I installed inside the abdomen and then 4 female snaps in the corresponding places on the harness to hold the abdomen there. I don’t have this armor anymore, but my only recommendation would be not to use the harness for your thighs too. You could, but the weight of the thighs and abdomen really can pull down on your shoulders a lot. I’d recommend strapping the thighs to a separate nylon belt you wear underneath so they are held up separate by that belt and not by the same rig that is holding up your abdomen. It’s up to you, but figured I’d share how I had used it. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Yeah honestly the head mobility in this one isn’t the best and it’s because of the freaking size of the chin. You either sacrifice seeing through eyes to have helmet sit higher or you sacrifice head mobility. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Shims are the way to go. It’s not too hard to do and the abs paste process is really simple, just be sure to take your time and not rush the work of paste, sand, polish, and repeat until it’s finished. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I used scrap plastic to slice the excess off where i could, then thumbs. It was like hot glue but just a little more work to get off. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk