FN1313

Doable, lots of work and skill required. You’d probably find more info and help with droid builders groups some links below. http://astromech.net https://droidbuilders.info Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks good from what I can see. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Pretty! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you can I’d say try to get the bottoms a little closer to the boot. So it doesn’t have as big a gap. I know mine weren’t perfect either but I did try to get them as close as I could without being too tight overall. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Same idea in my garrison. A convention is usually a single troop, whereas different events in a day are separate troops. That’s how I look at it when it comes to census type stuff too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Buckets off Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Been a while since my last post, hopefully my helmet ships soon so I can finish this build up. For now I got the D ring installed and painted for my blaster. I also touched up the black paint for t tracks and the grip. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You’ll want the forearms to be just big enough to get your wrist through. And the biceps I’d say two fingers flat fit between the armor and your arm. Too loose and they will not sit well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah in general I didn’t hear much anything for my armor until I did a final fitting. Only piece I heated was the bottom of the posterior to bend it more below my rear so it didn’t hang down so far, but that’s due to my height and all. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cracking and repair unfortunately is more of a when rather than an if in this costume business, that being said I’ve learned from my old FOTK (which was fiberglass not abs) and my scout trooper that the best thing to do is scout out areas of flexing that are more likely to develop cracks. Or corners that are sharper than others. For flex areas I recommend installing strengthening plastic behind to help add durability. Like I did with my shoulder bridges and my ab edges on my current OTTK build. Especially areas with raised detail like the shoulder bridges you see here. For areas with sharp edges give them a little rounded off corner rather than a sharp one as that will dissuade cracks from forming where sharp edges are more likely. For example the posterior armor I’ve curved the corners near the bottom a bit so they aren’t sharp. A reason you’ll want to consider most on the fotk, the yoke shoulders for certain. Look into using the shoulder bracket method. Not only does it reinforce, but it also sets up the little tab that protrudes for the shoulders to rest on for better accuracy. Ab armor will bend no matter what. I can’t say exactly the best areas to reinforce there as it’s all one huge piece, but considering abs builds have you using a rear cover strip and then abs paste to fill and smooth that’s going to help where I would see cracks on mine. Forearms have lots of corners and edges to just keep your eye on. The area between the back and yoke pieces may be a place of stress to consider. And the spats…those things are royal buttheads for flexing and stuff so definitely worth finding where to reinforce those in my opinion if that helps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Generally first tests pinch and bite, part of getting them situated and trimmed correctly, however yeah, I wouldn’t trim them until you have a better idea how they sit with it the shoulders and all. You’d hate trimming too much only to find things don’t look/fit right after the fact. That being said I’ve sanded down any sharp edges to make them more a slight curve as that also helps with the stabbing/pinching. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Take all piercings off beforehand [emoji23] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Echoing the heat comment. ABS has the tendency to be super rigid and then have like 2 seconds of the perfect point before it warps and burns bad if using a heat gun. So do be careful and practice if you go that route Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The rear strip will be a little raised due to the connecting methods, your shin looks decent to me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’d say E6000 for the whole armor. It’s what I’ve used and it’s very strong when it cures for what you need. The risk you run with “permanent” bonds is if you ever need to or want to make adjustments it’s a nightmare. With how strong e6000 is in general you should be fine using it for the entirety of the gluing portion of your armor. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Yeah I think by the end of my process building out things I had probably 20-30 magnets (mostly to help me glue multiple things overnight at once) some spots you want to double up the magnets for added strength. I usually used a strong clamp on the ends of each strip though and then magnets between. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

My recommendation, if you aren’t familiar with the armor building and are concerned in the slightest that you may need to undo something and try again later, stick with E6000. E6000 takes a lot longer to set and cure for sure, but it’s more forgiving. CA glues, “cement” type glues stuff like that are usually one time and set they also set a lot faster which means you have to pretty accurate from the start. What’s even worse is if you do make a mistake, taking them apart can be very damaging to the armor. So probably could use it yes, but it has its drawbacks. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Yeah I missed the mention in the mix of all the other comments. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I didn’t see any mention on this, so if it was mentioned forgive me for repeating it. Looks like the rear cap of the blaster is missing or incorrect. And at level 2 the D-ring mounted on the rear. Your image References Here’s a reference post as well https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/?do=findComment&comment=414687 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I left mine for 72 hours just because of that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Details as to what isn’t quite up to par with the CRL and how to make them so from different vendors is the kind of value I look for in build threads! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Honestly it’s a work of persistent adjusting until everything is set. What I did was clamp things in place and mark where the front of the shin was against the back of the knee plate. Then I added glue and clamp/magnets there and clamped with strong clamps the sides down with glue as well. Being sure that the edge line matched up with the shin’s edge line too. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Alright, new doubled up snaps for the back to kidney. And heated and bent the posterior more inward. And tightening the bicep straps hoping that will keep shoulders in closer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah TD is an easy fix back plate I probably will just tighten the straps, since they are snap made I don’t have to do any new work for glue and wait, just make some double straps to counter the pull of the shoulder bridge straps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here’s a quick suit up I did today (still no helmet yet) forgot to do one without the blaster for better visibility… Top left shin hook came undone here Everything feels pretty comfortable as I’d want to in trooping. Knee sniper plate could use some foam to not press hard into my knee and push it forward a bit. Also looks like maybe using a little heat to bend the bottom of the tushy protector in and under my rump, might be good. Any thoughts on how to minimize the space between chest and shoulder bells up front more? I have a pretty bulky chest and back from lifting and all, so the challenge I’m seeing is it hits the side of my chest and has a hard time getting closer to the chest armor. I’ve doubled up the elastic connecting to the shoulder bridge elastic. Maybe heat to open the bell up more and then tighter elastic to the bicep?