shashachu

Yeah I agree that the wedge makes it stick out a ton. I'll play with positioning before deciding. I also think I could use *just* the wedge and it'd look fine. I appreciate the offer of the mount - I think at worst I'm fine with my printed one so I don't think I will need yours.

I went ahead and tinkcercad-ed a simple holster mount. If i were smart I would have put the screw holes in as well, but alas.

Welcome! Not sure how short you are, but I'm 5' 3" (160cm) and here is my WTF build, which reached Centurion. I've found the WTF kit to be a good one for smaller folks. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42868-sha-shas-wtf-anh-stunt-build-complete/

Good luck with your build!

Great progress! And sounds like you're set with the shins, but yes any seams that are going to take some flex you can back them with ABS or similar.

Ah, I see. Thanks for the file links - I must have just not been using the right search terms because I was trying to find files. :)

Do you think it'd be really difficult to sand the wedge to that shape?

Question regarding the holster. Like Anzo, my kit did not come with the holster rail/mount, and obviously I cannot ask KB for one now. Is it actually necessary if I have the wedge portion of the R2Dan holster? Looking at this photo, for example, I don't see an additional rail: also this one: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/image/5711-fotk-r-leg-holster-side-view-2jpg/

Are you even a maker unless you have 8 different projects going at once???? :) I've actually been working a lot on the code for M-O and seeing if I can do a full test of all the electronics. Don't worry!

Besides the spats, most of the rough assembly for the costume is actually done, so my next big milestone will be to do a whole body test suit-up. Some of the strapping can't easily be done prior to painting, so I am planning on using hot glue to add some temporary strapping, since hot glue can be easily removed with rubbing alcohol. In order to do my suit up, I think this will be my checklist: [ ] Sew the elbow and shoulder gaskets together [ ] Shoulder strapping [ ] Ab strapping [ ] Shoulder/bicep strapping [ ] Thigh strapping [ ] Temp butt strapping [ ] Temp cod strapping [ ] Temp helmet padding [ ] Temp chest/back connection

Most recently, I've worked on reshaping the calves. I am planning on just using Velcro to close them, but similar to my OTTK, I'd like them to stay closed without any Velcro to minimize the chance of them popping open during a troop. So I turned to my trusty heat gun to reshape them. Here's a photo midway through the process; the gap was even larger before: And after: The other calf after reshaping:

So as I alluded to a few posts back, I was happy about the chest and back sizing, but now quite unhappy about the helmet size. It somehow doesn't show as much in photos, but in person I felt like a FOTK Funko pop. I really really didn't want to have to print the helmet, but seeing how amazing @zediyeti looked made me finally bite the bullet. Like Zediyeti I sized my helmet to 92%, but I had to slice it into parts due to my smaller printer bed. Each part took 12-ish hours. 1) Top. I used a support blocker under the dome, but you can see how a bunch of supports are needed under the brow. Concerned about the finish, I decided to use PLA as the support interface, and it worked amazingly. The black is PLA: The brow surface: 2) Bottom rear. I was a little too aggressive with support blocking which caused some artifacts near the edges but nothing unfixable: 3) Bottom front: And a size comparison with the Anovos: It is certainly going to be a chore to finish the helmet, but I didn't see a better path forward. It's possible I could have been approved with the Anovos helmet but I know it would have just driven me up the wall every time I looked at it.

Some additional miscellaneous progress: Cutting the bicep pill holes: Printing the SE-44C: Printing the chest greeblies, although I may try to get someone to print them in resin later: Cutting some of the ab out under my armpit area: Resizing the gaskets under the armpit area:

One thing I did recently as well, was make the 'Finn cut' in the forearms. It was a little nerve-wracking to cut into the forearms, but I'm much happier with the fit. I also checked about 500 times I was cutting the correct side. :)

The KB TD seemed like a huge pain to assemble, so I went ahead and printed this one from Jesse_M (who also makes the most accurate C3PO files, from what I understand.) I cannot recall if I had to make any modifications to the files to fit the KB TD back plate, but here are some photos showing the fit: Before gluing the halves together, I added nylon bolts for mounting: I have very successfully used a garrison-mate's method of acetone-thinned Bondo spot filler (see his YouTube video) on other prints, so I gave it a go on the TD as well: Primed Still has a tiny seam, which I'll need to address:

The next part I tackled was the belt. I'd been dreading it for some reason, but it was actually quite fun. I believe I used @JAFO's belt kit. To start, for the backing of the two horizontal boxes, I printed this file. It turns out though that I had to modify them because the curve of my ab was more pronounced: I did a quick mod in Tinkercad to fix it. You can see the difference here: I didn't do an amazing job documenting the build, so I'll refer you all to @Ruthar's excellent build thread which I used as reference. Similar to other builders, my only recommendation is to take your time, and make sure you're sizing everything against the ab armor. The belt components have quite a bit of thickness, so it was easiest for me to just line them up and mark the measurements manually. The punch I used to make holes in the rubber and neoprene: The 3 layers held together with Chicago screws: Fit around the ab armor: You can see how much longer the outer layers are compared to the inner nylon: I tried to glue the layers together with E6000 but it didn't stick, unfortunately. Not sure if it will be necessary ultimately. Like @Ruthar I covered the belt clip with some extra rubber: Planning out placement of the boxes and pouches: I unfortunately cannot recall where I got the pouches from, but I believe it was a run on the forums. If I find it, I will update this post. Moving along, the 3D printed box backers were nice because I could just zip-tie them on. I ran out of black filament so I just hit them with some black spray paint. I didn't bother doing any prep and finishing on them since they'll barely be visible. You can see the back, including some snaps I'd added to hold the front of the belt up: Here are the other belt boxes attached with elastic: I may end up adding a snap to the back of the belt if I find it moves around, but for now this is as much assembly I can do prior to painting.

I did this a while back and washed it off, so hopefully no further reactions, but yes it was quite immediate and dramatic. Thanks for the tip about E6000.

One of the next parts I tackled were the ab boxes. Like others, I used a contour gauge to try to match the bumps on the front of the ab: Since I knew I'd be painting the entire kit, I also used the ab and belt boxes as a small test to try out painting. So I sanded off all the gloss: The primed and painted them: Very far from perfect but ok: Definitely needs improvement before I tackle the armor! For the ab box attachment, I decided to go with nylon bolts and nuts. I drilled holes in the ab: Then tried to use epoxy to glue the nuts in place. To be honest it was kind of a harrowing process. I had to reinforce the bolts with some milliput, and for one of them I messed it up so badly I ended up just gluing it to the ab. I also thought that I could use Loctite to help keep the nuts on, but BIG MISTAKE. I don't know what's in it, but it caused some major cracks in the ab! I ended up backing the cracks with a CA-glue soaked piece of cloth, and fortunately there's not too visible. Another vote for gluing the ab boxes on!

Out of frustration, I put the build down for about 4 years, until after I got a 3D printer and I realized I might be able to 3D print some pieces of armor. I actually bought 2 sets of files, this one from Etsy and this one from CGTrader. Edit: I think the chest is from CGTrader and the back is from the Etsy files. I wish I took better notes. :) I also decided on PETG for heat resistance. I scaled the back and chest down (I can't remember how much; I think it's at 90% scale) and did a few test prints: Two different sizes. Left is 100%, right is 90%. A partial print: A comparison of the KB back and the 3D printed back: Test prints of the back and chest: The final back: The final chest. It turns out zip kicker yellows PETG. Who knew! The fun thing about 3D printing is that you can also modify the files before printing. I don't actually know how to use any modeling software, so I did everything in the slicer. Some simple mods were: Cutting slots in the yoke, and I also shortened it so I could better fit my arms through (not shown in this pic). Lowering the neck of the chest, and slightly shortening the tips: Lengthening the 'wings' of the chest so they overlap the back more: Here's the result of that. I'll fill the extra square: I printed the yoke so that it will flex with the layer lines, but with the back being in 4 pieces, I'm worried about the flex, so I backed the seams with some extra ABS: Here's a sizing check. Some tweaks for comfort and fit, but I was much happier with the size: A comparison of the KB chest on the left and the printed chest on the right. You'll notice that the smaller chest reveals a new problem, which is that now the helmet looks too big...

Sometime in 2019 I also acquired an 850 Armor Works kit during a super sale, hoping it would be smaller. Unfortunately 1) it wasn't that much smaller and 2) the quality of the pulls was really not great. The plastic was extremely thin, and had a bunch of orange peeling and weird deformation. You can see the back is significantly smaller than KB: But still quite oversized on me:

The thighs were fairly standard as well. Just cut to size, and glue. I cut the overlap in a curve to try to match references. You can see by how much material I cut off how much I had to size them down.

In early 2019 I was feeling pretty discouraged by the huge size of the chest and back, so I decided to do some work on the rest of the armor. I started with the ab. It's a pretty standard construction, where I cut the front and back pieces down to size, added an inner cover strip, and glued them together. I'm actually small enough that I can slip it on and off without splitting the back at all. I think I will eventually split it and just add some elastic between the halves to make it slightly easier to get on and off. Like other folks, I used a small triangle of ABS to fill the ab squares on the edge.

Ahem. tap tap tap... Is this thing on? Ummm... well it's 2025 now and I still haven't finished this costume, but I have had fits and bursts of activity on it as I go through the rollercoaster of highs of "I can do this!" and lows of "THIS COSTUME CANNOT BE MADE TO FIT SMALL PEOPLE." Most recently, I got re-inspired by @zediyeti's incredible 3D printed build. I acquired a Bambu X1C last year and actually did already start working on 3D printing some of the parts to fit me, so it was really inspiring to see Zediyeti's completely 3D printed and incredible-looking build. I'm going to go ahead and try to recap my periods of progress over the past almost-7 years.

still not showing for me :(

The image is missing (for me at least.)