SheaJeff

I had a similar problem and had to trim the notch at the top as well as some of the back top area. What do you have to lose at this point!

I have the AM 2.0 kit and received 2 different belts and square buttons. I noticed that in Section 11 you were using the one with the square depressions and the bigger diameter buttons. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31920-ukswraths-am-10-ata-bucket-build/page-3 I'm going for ANH Stunt TK and HWT. Which belt and buttons are correct, and what's the other one for?

Good to know since I already painted it a bit. Thanks a lot. This makes me feel better about making this into something troop-able.

Pretty expensive stuff. Glad to know if worked for you Do you apply if before or after painting?

Mon Motha

And which button covers are correct?

Just a quick question. My AM 2.0 kit came with 2 belts as shown. Which one is correct for HWT and ANH TK?

What exactly should I put on it?

I have this kit. It's a ton of sanding and even then isn't the greatest and is really fragile. It's so time consuming I haven't even finished it. Can't imagine tripping with it. Save your money and buy a hyperfirm if you're looking for something to troop with.

I had the same gap above the ear. It should be covered if you trim the ear right. I had the trim the top section of the ear as well as the bottom curve. You can see the difference in "thickness" of the top section, particularly compared to the other side.

I wanted an antenna like that too bad t was worried about trooping indoors.

I started with the brow low like that too, but be warned: when you pull the cheeks in with the additional screws the brow lowers a bit. I'd go higher on it.

I want to buy my wife a new sewing machine so that she can sew the industrial strength velcro to elastic, but I know I'LL end up doing the sewing!

It appears my AM 2.0 trim is a lot thicker than yours. My problem is that if I put it on like yours, I get these "lumpy" areas AND my big long head has more trouble squeezing in (I've already trimmed the opening as much as I dare). If I put it the other way (picture 2), then it looks cleaning and gives me a bit more clearance in the opening. Does it really matter which way it goes? Perhaps I should buy a different trim piece that's "thinner". (Trooper bay maybe?)

Hey, could somebody me please post a picture of the correct placement of the S rubber around the bottom rim of the helmet. Which part goes onto the helmet (wide or narrow)? Also, where does it stop/start? Front, back, doesn't matter?

Arg! I just read this after I spent time putting Velcro in the helmet Just using its regular adhesive backing. Oh well, when it starts to come loose I'll re-do it with E-6000.

Wow! Good to know. Sounds like there is a lot more to the power supplies than I realized. Thanks.

Your helmet looks amazing inside. Do you have a build thread on it?

It normally runs off a 9V but you can replace it with the larger power pack if desired. My plan in the future is to switch everything to use 1 USB source.

I just got my ROM/FX and the optional AA battery pack but it holds 8! AA batteries. I'm. It sure Velcro will hold that kind of weight so I may have to move that to the chest.

Thanks guys. Velcro makes it easier and saves me $18 on gaffers tape. I appreciate the help.

I'm at the point where I am beginning to mount items inside the helmet, and am not sure of the best method. I've mounted the welding shield using the ear screws, and the head padding with Velcro strips. What's the best way to hold the screen and the electronics inside the helmet? (fans, ROM/FX and mic, Ukswrath's hearing assist) I've seen mention of gaffers tape, but read on Amazon that it's meant to be temporary. Is Velcro a better option? Is there something else I should be using? Thanks for the help.

Where did you get the lenses?

I used a heat gun to make bicep clips as well. What I noticed is that you can't tell how hot the plastic is and it quickly goes from "barely movable" to "soft goo" pretty quickly. The sweet spot where you can form it is pretty small. And I was only bending a narrow straggly piece; trying to bend somethings like the cheeks would be a nightmare to get it to keep a consistent shape along the whole length. I didn't need a heat gun for anything but the bicep clips and I used scraps to make those. The armor kit is a really nice kit except for the face alignment problem in the face.