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tarok

Imperial Attaché[TK]
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Posts posted by tarok

  1. Hey Chris,

     

    Found ya, mate! :smiley-sw013:

     

    I'll post the submission photo requirements in response to your question over on the Knightfall forum. Overall, though, the armour looks good for basic submission. There are a few dressing issues here and there, nothing that should hold you up.

     

    Dressing issues I've noticed (in addition to what you pointed out):

    - helmet sitting skew (for submission photos make sure this is nice and straight)

    - back plate looks loose (might just be the photo angle)

    - line up the ab and kidney plates (again, might just be the photo angle)

    - tighten that belt, trooper

    - drop your shins a bit, they're sitting a bit high on your boots (the backs of your knees will thank you later)

     

    Future enhancements - just a few items you might consider for future/post approval:

    - your biceps and forearms seem to sit quite loose. You might consider reducing their circumference in future (FWIW I have to do the same on my biceps)

    - reduce/remove the return edge visible on the side of your ab plate.

    - moon cuts behind your knees on the shins (again: the backs of your knees will thank you later)

     

    That's all I spotted in a quick look during lunchbreak. Other's may spot additional fixes :) 

     

  2. Just a quick mock up of the pack before I spend several days printing parts. These are scaled to 90% to match the relative sizing of the oil pan.

    I don’t think a HWT has come across my GMLs desk yet, so he may be looking to the detachment for advice at some point. So, with all that in mind, am I on the right track here?

    dd113aea918018b1e55d29ba218dd4ec.jpg


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    • Like 1
  3. Thanks @MaskedVengeance and @gmrhodes13, I'll be happy to share the files when they're done.... "when" is the question LOL :laugh1:

     

    While I should have been modding and printing pack parts, I got a wee bit distracted and accidentally printed a DLT-19 instead. All parts taking longer than an estimated 16 hours to print were split in 2, which means more time finishing but less time listening to the missus moan about a noisy printer in the early hours of the morning. ;)

     

    The model is off Thingiverse (Star Wars DLT-19X blaster (MG 34) by surfinbird132), minus the scope, plus the bipod. Whilst it's certainly no 3DPropsNL model, it's close enough for the occasional troop.

     

    All parted printed in PLA+, 0.2 layer height, 4 walls, 25% infill. I've already started giving some of the parts a light sand with 400 grit wet/dry. Thereafter they'll get a coat of UV resin, another rub down, and a final coat of resin.

     

    UvjePyq.jpg

     

    • Like 2
  4. Hi Geoff

    Good to see you found your way here.

    Take your time reading through posts and build threads here. This place is a gold mine of information.

    The reason I suggested RS is because they offer the full commission/pre built option, as I know you want to get out there trooping again ASAP.

    Other popular kits within KFG are AP and WTF. A few of us have Anovos kits, but as you know from your own experiences with them, “fast” is not a word one easily associates with that company.

    In terms of PVC vs ABS, it’s a personal choice IMO. Each has their advantage.

    You’ll notice a difference in colour between the 2 mediums, but no more than you’ll notice the different shades of white between manufacturers.

    I’m Knightfall’s FISD attaché, so I’ll be keeping an even closer eye on your thread than most

    As mentioned elsewhere, I’ll message you tonight about the blaster questions you had.

    • Like 1
  5. I used these on my build: https://amzn.to/355YdSu
     
    I am confident I could do 5 perfectly in the same time it takes to do 1 with a hammer.  I've not tested them with non prym snaps though, but I would expect them to work with any snap so long as it's not larger than 15mm.

    I use the same. Actually, I think I bought it off your recommendation

    I’ve used it with both Prymm eyelets and sports/camping snaps, as well as some cheaper snaps from the local hardware store.
  6. With the gradual lifting of pandemic restrictions and the chance to catch up with good mates again, my mojo has started coming back. The fact that I eventually managed to get my little Ender 3 working helped too :)

     

    As mentioned above, we can't get the Wedco oil change pan here in Oz (unless you want to pay a fortune in shipping), but the Daytona pan is readily available, albeit 10% smaller than the former. A fellow builder and garrison mate printed Eric's awesome pack parts (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4462006) at 90%. Size wise they look good. However my concern is that to have them sit flush on the pan, we'll need to cut much of the "X" away, thus weakening the structure of the pan. A further, but related, concern was how to securely fix the parts to the pan. The weight of the parts was less of a concern if they're printed with a low infill %.

     

    Encouraged by the fact that they look good, I decided to prototype some changes to Eric's files, starting with the flap box.

     

    I began by hollowing the box (walls are 3.5mm thick), and then removed the floor. Next up, I added pillars to each corner, with 3mm holes aligned to those in the lid (after reducing the scale to 90%, I had to enlarge the lid holes) so in theory I should be able to attach the box using M3 screws. To reduce print times, I decided to split the lid from the box (eliminating the need for excessive print supports). A further efficiency update was made by merging the flaps with the lid (this would save a couple of hours print time).

     

    d73vPlr.jpg

     

    Before spending several hours printing the entire box, I took a cut of the bottom 12 layers (an arbitrary number really) and ran off a test print. Overlaid on the oil pan, the part looks good, but I think I'm going to try reduce the size of the pillars, maybe curve them a bit. We'll still need to reinforce the inside of the pan with plastic card stock (I'm thinking just plastic signage from the local hardware store), but at least we'll be removing less of the pan, only those sections where the box walls need to cut through. The test print can be used as a stencil on the outside, but I've been contemplating using it as a gasket on the inside simply to further strengthen the structure.

     

    0QHewLR.jpg

     

    Come Xmas break, printing begins in earnest. :smiley-sw013:

    • Like 2
  7. Definitely not ABS. The below quote is from Paul Prentice on Shoretrooper Fam. Paul is highly regarded for his research into the armoured Imperial characters of Rogue One and Solo. The production process was the same for ST and TK.

     

    Quote

    As far as I know there are no ST armours available made from resin and if there were they would not be strong enough for the rigours of trooping as the resin would have no flex and would break/crack. you are correct the original screen used armour was made from a PU resin however it was injection moulded and "baked" according to model maker Neil Ellis which gave it hard rubber like qualities that had flex and durability. Enough for the actors to do receptive heavy stunt work. The process they used to make the armour is not completely known and I suspect would be way too expensive for any fan made maker to imitate correctly. Because the armour was injection moulded it gave it a thickness that is impossible to replicate from vac forming in ABS/PVC and the screen used also had details on the inside included in the casting. 

     

    • Like 1
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