justjoseph63

I see your point, but I was basing that off of the fact that the sides in the reference image don't appear to be smooth and it looks (to me at least) as if they were bent up. The legs do appear to be a bit wider, though.

Sounds like I have some gluing to be done once this makes it to the CRL. At this point I think we just need to decide the exact position of the square button and the IC sockets. Although not required, for a higher level of screen accuracy on the E-11 certain greeblies may be added as an option: 1. Two 14 pin IC sockets located on the sight as seen here: Front of forward socket shall sit directly behind front section of sight. Back of rear socket shall be located directly in front of rear section as shown. All prongs are bent upward. The other greeblies can be added if you like, but since they are not too prominent we can omit them. I really don't want to make the CRLs any more confusing. In all honesty I don't feel as if I can charge for these. The IC sockets cost me 18 cents each and the cost of resin to make the other parts is less than 10 cents. Being borderline OCD I would rather see folks take advantage of adding them for screen accuracy.

So where do we stand at this point? I had some time on my hands so I made up the other greeb, made another silicone mold, cast a few in silver resin and painted/weathered them. These are not attached of course, but are ready to go. This is where I am so far: Looks like this one is centered under the second hole back from the bayonet lug. May have to think about the positioning on this one. Looks to be right above where the grip meets the barrel, but I think the screen shot is a Bapty so it may be off. I might re-do this one to make the button a little more square. The screen shot has 7 pins, which I believe are turned UP rather than down flat against the barrel as seen in the video (last pic). As I mentioned before, if these are approved I will send both greeblies cast in silver resin and two 7 pin IC sockets to anyone who wants a set for the price of postage.

You are very close, Cory! For Basic they should pass, but we would ask that you tighten them up a bit since you are aiming for EI and then Centurion. Not sure if it's the photos, but there seems to be specks of something in many places on the button plates and other parts of the ab plate. To clean up the areas shown below, this is what I would suggest: Use some cotton swabs lightly dipped in mineral spirits (I use the odorless type) to carefully remove any residual paint. Once the paint is removed, use dry swabs to remove any spirits from the surfaces and dry them thoroughly with paper towels. Don't let the spirits dry on the ABS or keep them on too long or it may damage the surface As Glen mentioned, the paint looks really thick in some areas. It would be a pain in the butt-plate, but removing it all and starting from scratch using a template like this or making your own may be the way to go. If you do, here is a tip: After pressing the template(s) firmly down, them hit them with a VERY light coat of white paint. Let that dry and then hit them with a medium coat of the blue (not too heavy).. just enough to be opaque. Doing it that way, the white paint seals the edges so the blue won't bleed underneath, giving you clean, crisp lines. I have a tutorial here if it helps.

WOW.. excellent idea, Jonathan!! I have added this item to my "Supply List" thread. Thanks!!!

If we can help in any way, just ask!

Not too bad on the paint, Cory. Using a small "filbert" style brush will allow you to sharpen up the edges. As for the return edges, the link David posted will go into more details. Some folks like em', and you certainly won't get dinged at any level of approval, but with some exceptions they weren't really present in most areas of screen used armor. One thing you want to be careful with (return edges or not) is sharp corners. Always do a slightly rounded corner as seen in the first photo. If you make a sharp corner, that is where you can will get splitting eventually. This is also important on the posterior (butt) plate corners. When cutting out the buttons/button plates, I highly suggest referring to the diagrams below. Leave a bit (1/8 to 1/4 ") around the large plate and don't round-out the corners. All of the return edge should be removed from the button covers/small 4 button plate. Hope this helps! Shown right side up Examples of screen used armor

Any updates on this, Michael?

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This is now considered an inactive thread. Please contact any member of the D.O. staff to continue the review process

This is now considered an inactive thread. Please contact any member of the D.O. staff to continue the review process

This is now considered an inactive thread. Please contact any member of the D.O. staff to continue the review process.

This is now considered an inactive thread. Please contact any member of the D.O. staff to continue the review process.

This is now considered an inactive thread. Please contact any member of the D.O. staff to continue the review process.

Here are some threads/links that will help, Jake: 1. Visual checklist: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/49232-anh-stunt-expert-infantry-visual-checklist-2020/ 2. Photo checklist: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/49703-ei-photo-checklist-updated-version-2020/ 3. Once you get your photos ready, you then submit them in this thread: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/19-request-expert-infantryman-status/ (Just follow the examples already there) and as soon as you have completed that one of us will be with you shortly after. Don't forget- information to be included with your request/photos: Mandatory Information Armor = Armor Maker Helmet= Helmet Maker Blaster= Blaster Type Optional Height = Your Height Weight = Your Weight Boots = Boot Maker Canvas belt = Belt Maker Hand Plates = Hand Plate Type Electronics= Voice Electronics Maker Neck Seal = Neckseal Type/Maker Holster = Holster Maker If you have any questions or problems, always feel free to contact myself or the other D.O.s!

To be honest, you don't really need any padding in the top of your helmet unless your head is actually touching it, Daniel. Even then, I would suggest as little as possible to help it sit lower. Although not required for Basic approval, below are some items that will help your armor look it's best! If we can be of any help at all with the adjustments (or anything, for that matter), always feel free to ask... it's what we do best! Your shoulder bells could come in a bit at the top (closer to the bridges) I would consider raising the left bicep a little to where it is level with the right one. Your kidney looks askew, and And the left one looks to be about an inch longer than the right one. may need to be centered more. Also, the butt plate ideally should sit under the kidney. In a perfect world, the cover strips should face the Ideally, the outside edges of the drop front. Rotating them in a bit would help. boxes should line up with the outside edges of the ABS belt.

Link is in your post from March 10th, Jim!

Looks great, Cory! Can you post up a shot of the front, with the back of the clip held vertically (as if it were attached to your belt)?

I'm not sure we can/should add them as a requirement in the CRL. as too many folks would have trouble either sourcing or effectively replicating them. This would lead to the number of L3 apps drop or be turned down for that reason alone. Optional / acceptable? My vote is yes.

You are 100% correct, sir! I just ordered 20 of the 14 pin style. Heck, at 18 cents each with free shipping even if they don't get approved I haven't lost much, lol.

I found ones that are almost identical here. If these additions get approved, I will order some as well as make the other ones if we can't find out what they are and offer the sets at my cost (probably less than 50 cents a set).

Any updates on this, Trina?

You are the MAN! Nice detective work, Mathias!!

Not sure we will ever find out what the exact item that I replicated is... heck, it could be anything, but since Mathias found the top part (WOO HOO) and the one above the trigger guard (first photo) looks to be just a square button it would be easy to copy. Who would decide on approval for this, Andrew? In studying some of the photos, I was thinking they might have been only on the Sterlings, but it appears that the Sandy has a Bapty with them.

Had some time today and thought I'd try to replicate these new-found greeblies for my Hero blaster.... one down, 2 to go. I think this may be part of the fuel assembly for a 1960 Bristol 406 (just kidding, I have no idea). Not sure if I'm going to permanently attach them yet but I am making silicone molds in case anyone wants free copies.