justjoseph63

Looking great, Brock! Really nice job on that build, brother, and you should see and EIB badge under your name soon! I am hoping that you will be aiming for Centurion next, and would like to offer a few tips that may help... You may want to re-align (raise) the sniper knee plate so that the calf is not so visible (first pic). An easy fix if you use E-6000! Raise the kidney piece on the right hand side (pic 2) a bit to more align it with the ab plate. Change out the screws on your TD clips to the flat-head slotted type and paint them black. I will send you a set of the correct ones for free (including postage), just PM me if interested.

That must be some form of miscommunication with Imperial Boots, Jim. There is no way Francois would stay in business charging $100.00 for shipping, LOL. That price may include shipping, so I would double check with him and see what the deal is... I have a pair that I have had for about 3 years and they are awesome, and I think I only paid about $85.00 in total. I would advise ordering one size up from what you normally wear, though, as they seen to run a bit small.

That's the spirit!

GREAT job so far, Zac, and awesome to see that we have another HWT (and future Centurion) on the way! Everything so far looks like a textbook build, brother. Since you will be occasionally be doing the shiny white armor thing, I would recommend purchasing an extra canvas belt. The reasons being are that the one for your HWT can (and will) get dirty, as it should. Plus, it won't have drop boxes or holster. Having a nice clean backup holster with these items attached will make life easier when transitioning. If I can be of any help with anything HWT related, like the pack build, supplies (and where to source them) or any questions in general please feel free to PM me. P.S. Thanks for the kind words about my Build Supply thread... glad it helped!

Another thing to think about is that you may still have some growing to do.. (a lot can happen in 3 years). I realize that you are anxious to get started, but if you begin building now, you could very well outgrow your armor in a year or two, and Anovos does not supply replacement pieces (yet). If it were me, this is what I would do: 1. Keep up your research as to which armor you would like to purchase. (There are many more high quality kits in the link that Q provided). 2. Research many of the hundreds of build threads here. This will come in handy, and you can ask questions in the interim and become very knowledgeable before your kit even arrives. 3. Collect all the various build supplies you will need and familiarize yourself with them. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31404-supply-list-for-your-tk-build/ 4. Purchase your E-11. Since you have the time, I would suggest going with a Doodydoos resin kit. http://www.doopydoos.com/stormtrooper-e-11-complete-anh-e-11-blaster-kit-offer-2685-p.asp (More notes on Doopydoos below). 5. Start purchasing the "soft goods" you will need, (except boots and undersuit of course). 6. Armor parties: See about getting an adult family member (and hopefully a SW fan) to take you and stay there with you. The reason being is that some hosts may not want to be liable for a minor. You can ask questions about armor, learn about using tools, paint, strapping, etc. 7. Some units not only allow, but encourage Galactic Academy members to attend certain non-canon troops as long as a family member is there. You can volunteer to be a "handler"... taking photos, etc. Doopydoos notes: The Doopydoos E-11 is an awesome kit at a great price, and will give you the chance to sharpen your building skills. It can take up to 8 weeks to receive it, and the customer service is terrible, but you will receive it I promise. You can really take it a long way toward screen accuracy, especially with one of Tino's (t-jay) incredible finishing kits https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28444-fs-completion-sets-for-e-11-resin-kits-with-worldwide-insured-shipping-and-paypal/#comment-361059

The areas I reinforced were the ones around the neck on the back plate, and the ones highlighted in the photo below. You will have tons of scrap ABS after trimming out the pieces, which is what I used to accomplish this. I cut the reinforcing strips to shape and about 5/16th wide, then used E-6000 and rare earth magnets to attach them to the inside, (but not visible from the outside). A few tips, though.. Anovos does not come with interior cover strips as most other kits do. There is enough material to make your own, and I highly suggest doing that, especially on the inside front of the calves as these get a lot of wear and tear from constant opening and closing. They don't have to be pretty, just functional, and will add a lot of strength to the joins. Also, before gluing on any cover strips, be SURE to peel off the protective clear film and sand down the surface to be glued. This may seem like a no brainer, but I know of many people who forgot to peel it off and the join failed to adhere correctly. -----------

Tony approved him for EIB yesterday: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42398-tk-80176-requesting-eib-status-anh-stunt-rs-742/#comment-568964

Well stated, Mike!!!

Don't worry too much, Robert. There are hundreds of 501st approved Anovos kits out there that have held up just fine. As mentioned, there have been a few instances of cracks and such, but well placed "shims" (reinforcements) can prevent those, allowing you to troop to your heart's delight. One of my sets is an Anovos, and although I really don't use it that much, I have had no problems. Like anything, a lot depends on how well you build and take care of it. Hopefully you will be aiming for Centurion level, which many with that kit have reached. If you haven't already done so, I suggest checking out Tony's (ukswrath) ANH Anovos build. Tons of information and hundreds of detailed photos. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-ukswraths-anovos-tk-build/ Here is another thread that may help you get started: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31404-supply-list-for-your-tk-build/ If we can be of any help, just let us know!

Some also use a short strip of white elastic glued to the inside of the calves that stretches under the boots like a stirrup.

If you have a Doopydoo's kit, the possibilities are endless... it all depends on how much time you would like to invest, and money, of course! Waiting on your armor kit is the perfect time to work on your blaster, and you can re-use many of the tools. For basic approval, an actual spring is not needed, but even though you are not headed for Centurion, you can still make your E-11 look incredible. I suggest taking a look at Tino's E-11 finishing kit: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28444-fs-completion-sets-for-e-11-resin-kits-with-worldwide-insured-shipping-and-paypal/ For the price, you will not get a better product to turn a DD kit into a work of art. Below are a few pics of my DD resin E-11 using Tino's kit. If I can be of any help, just ask. -----------

Great job on your build, Michael! Charging handles can be a bit difficult to find, but I can send you a free one made from black resin that you can attach to your E-11 if you will pick up the postage. Also, (it may be the camera angle), but the connectors you are using to attach your thigh ammo pack look a bit large. Are they 5/16ths head type? If not, I can also throw in 2 bifurcated (split) or single cap (screen accurate) rivets to replace those with. Both are 100% acceptable at EIB and Centurion. PM me if interested.

Congrats on your basic approval, Trooper, and great to hear that you are aiming for EIB! The next step is to go here: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16-501st-trooper-status-requests-include-link-to-your-501st-profile-in-your-request/ and sign up for Legion access. Now that you have your photo posting abilities set up with Imageshack, I look forward to seeing your level 2 submission thread soon! Just as in your basic build, be sure to post up any questions or concerns you may have and we will help you reach EIB (and then Centurion)!

Glad to see it worked out! (Not too sure about that undersuit, though... )

Many of us with different types of armor (myself included) have experienced this, Gary. I used a 1 x 1 x 8 inch piece of "chair foam" placed along the inside of the shin along the cover strip cured the problem. I suggest attaching it with Velcro so that you can remove it for occasional cleaning... (it can get pretty smelly due to sweating).

REALLY liking the idea of strapping it to the the top (and bottom) of the back plate! Instead of using the clips as shown, I bent a piece of heavy duty ABS which fits right over the back neck area and cut some slits in it to use 3/4 inch white nylon webbing (elastic is shown to show how it will work) to use on the top, and will make a bottom plate using white elastic. Using elastic on the bottom should make it easier for handlers to help me suit-up. I will be reinforcing the back neck area to prevent any stress cracks from the weight, as well as lining the ABS "clips" with faux sheepskin to prevent scratches. -------------

There are hundreds of Troopers out there that have had mostly good things to say about the Anovos kits, me being one of them. The price point certainly makes it look great, but as mentioned the delivery times/communication are spotty. My main trooping armor is AM, which is built like a tank, but I also have a set of Anovos for when I need to go "shiny white". The Anovos ABS is thinner, but I have taken the precaution of reinforcing it with scraps on the edges where this is prone to happen. To date I haven't had any cracks, (although I don't wear it that often) but there are some who have. Please note that the "vetted" armorers in the Getting Started section ( https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/) may have higher prices, but it's sort of a "you get what you pay for" deal. Plus, they will actually answer your emails in a timely manner. Another advantage is that if a piece should ever need to be replaced, they can do it. Anovos does not offer this option as of now. Please don't think that I am knocking Anovos... it's a nice kit and should last you quite a while if taken care of properly, but know that there are other options.

Thanks! I'll sleep when I'm dead, Paul... LOL. Besides, it keeps me out of mischief.

After sanding everything smooth, I primed it and then used 6 (yes, 6) coats of Automotive paint and then a clear coat. I chose the Chrysler "Light Almond Pearl" for the canisters, as it really isn't a pure silver or bronze, but sort of a mix. I used regular silver for the main body/hose connector and helmet/hose connection as well as on the back plate, and Nissan "Super White" for the main unit. Don't ask why, (I don't know, LOL) but I added a leftover Hovi-tip screen into the end of the hose/helmet attachment. BTW, I used large rubber O-rings on the outside of the main cannister. For the other recessed areas (like the 2 bottom attachments) I used silver pinstriping. -------------

Since I ordered the "unfinished" kit, I have about 40 + hours into this bad-boy. This includes sanding, filling, dremeling gluing painting, etc. As you can see I took an"artistic license" with a few of the pieces to say the least, lol. Since the insides (cannister/vertical tube inserts) cannot be seen unless removed, I figured what the heck. All that's left to do at this point is to do some touch-up painting, attach a hose to the "mouthpiece" and secure the back on. http://i.imgur.com/BJrb7GH.jpg?1 ---------

Well done, brother, and SUPER nice fix on that ab button plate! Looking forward to seeing that Centurion app. soon!! If you are interested in getting your EIB certificate, just click on the link below and I'll get that done for you: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/40769-request-your-eib-certificate-here/

There are a few in my Squad that have had problems with Anovos kits cracking in certain areas. When I built mine, I reinforced the areas that I saw this was happening in (mainly the chest and back pieces) with extra ABS scraps. No problems yet, but then again I have only used that set a few times. I'm not sure if Plasti-Dip would be rigid enough to reinforce it enough to make a difference.

So close, brother!

I recommend using the 20 mm x 3mm size, Bryon. Anything smaller/thinner and you may have to double up on them. I am including a link (below) on where to get them. Also, here are a few hints when using them: 1. First, these things are CRAZY strong., so keep them well separated during use. They will actually jump several inches to reconnect, and can pinch the crap out of your fingers if they get caught in between them. 2. To separate them, slide them apart.with your thumb. You can break off a fingernail if you try to pry them. 3. Since they are not made from solid metal, they can (and will) shatter if dropped or allowed to "jump" too far to connect. 4. Cover each one in blue painter's tape or the like. This will keep them from scratching your armor. 5. When removing them after the glue has dried... slide them off. Like Brian mentioned, you really can't have too many. For the ends of the cover strips, you can use clamps, but for the centers these type of magnets are really the only way to go. ----------

Nice job on that ATA kit. Jim!! Those side gaps look MUCH better. I think you have this nailed, but it looks as if you will be aiming for Centurion after this, so if I could make a few small suggestions for that they would be: 1. Tighten up the shoulder bells a bit. They should touch your shoulder bridge (or be very close). 2. You may need to trim down the 4 button plate on your ab. (see photo below). Hopefully you used E-6000 so it should be easy to pry off with a razor knife. (GREAT paint job on those, by the way)! 3. I suggest changing out the screws on your TD to the flat "pan-head" slotted type (second photo). If you PM me I will send you a set of these at no charge. 4. Lastly, you may want to align the outside edge of your drop boxes with the outside edges of your ABS belt. Side note: Glad to see that you went with the "double snap" strapping method. I swear by it. All easy fixes, Jim, and I look forward to seeing another EIB (and then Centurion) here in Makaze Squad territory!