justjoseph63

GREAT to hear that you are headed for Centurion, Anthony! As you probably are aware, you will need to submit for EI first, but before you do that you will need to apply for FISD Legion access here: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16-501st-trooper-status-requests-include-link-to-your-501st-profile-in-your-request/ which is pretty quick. In looking at the photo, it appears that you have a lot of room between the actual snaps on your back and chest plate and the ends of the tabs (blue circles). This creates slack, which is why it may be causing your shoulder bells to droop. You may want to try moving the snaps forward toward the tab (second photo) or even gluing the elastic down all the way to where the red line is in the first photo.

That happens a lot, James, so I wouldn't sweat it. As long as they have white paint on them (even if a bit has rubbed off) it's not a big deal.

Hold off on making any changes, Markus. I will get started on your application this afternoon, and again, thanks for your patience!

IMHO, it looks as if the mystery of the pop rivets on the thigh ammo pack and sniper knee plate is solved, and that can be laid to rest. The only thing I am wondering about is the return edge on the forearm. That may have been a one-off. Just found this as well: Absolutely, and as soon as possible. We don't get a lot of ROTJ L2 and 3 submissions, but we need to update the CRL to keep things current.

Steve to the rescue!!

The sniper knee plate is the item I am concerned about at the moment, as well as the use of pop rivets in lieu of the split or cap type. The above photo Tony posted of the ammo pack does not appear to be a pop rivet.

These are the rivets in question, Markus: As Steve mentioned, we are working on this issue right now and should have a solid decision soon, I promise. In the meantime, there are a few other items that will need to be addressed. The rivets used on your thigh ammo pack are "pop" rivets, (photo 1) and as per the CRL will need to be replaced with solid head fasteners as seen in the second photo, (single cap, double cap or split rivets) for level 2, (EI). The rivets used shall be single cap, double cap or split rivets. No pop rivets allowed Photo 1 Photo 2 The sniper knee plate can not have any rivets holding on to the shin: Sniper knee plate must not have visible rivets or fasteners attaching it to the shin Hold off on making any changes to the sniper knee plate, though, as this is another matter we are discussing at the moment. If the decision is made to allow rivets, they will need to be the solid head type. Sorry to keep you in limbo, brother, and I promise we will get you squared away as soon as possible. Thanks for your patience!

Ditto.

The chest looks as if it is sitting right where it should be, (maybe a tad higher if it's comfortable), and a hot water bath wouldn't hurt, especially if you feel that they are strained. As long as you can get at least 3 of the "bumps" and the large bump (no less) glued on to your chest plate you should be fine.

Looks like you should be fine with the length of the shoulder bridge you plan on gluing to the chest. Can you post a photo of the front view that shows how far the shoulder bridges come down on the chest?

Most issues have been brought up already, so you should be in pretty good shape for submitting to your GML, Winston. You can apply for level 2 right after your basic approval, but you will need to apply for legion access here at the FISD first: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16-501st-trooper-status-requests-include-link-to-your-501st-profile-in-your-request/ which is pretty quick. I would also take some paint to the frown points and open up those teeth a bit more: Reference image Your large ab button plate is spot-on, but the smaller 4 button one needs to be trimmed at some point. It should be fairly easy to get it off with an exacto knife and a bit of patience, but it should look like the one below. (Note that it is flat and has square corners) Reference image Best of luck on your basic approval, sir, and I look forward to seeing your EI submission!!

You nailed it, sir!

I realize that you have already glued your sniper knee plate on, Daniel, but it could use a little Dremel tool love. Also, since you are headed for Centurion, , I would suggest trimming the edge of the ab plate down to where it is in better alignment with the shim** before adding the rivets. This will save you some heartache later. You are well on your way, brother, so keep up the GREAT work!! Ideally there no gap between the abdomen and kidney armor. ** For an awesome tutorial on using ABS paste (to cover the shim seam) here is a link that will help: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42866-how-to-make-abs-paste/

Suh-WEET! Congrats on your approval, Trooper! I forgot to add the photo I mentioned above. As soon as you get that done, I expect to see your EI submission!

MUCH better! Thanks!

Looking GREAT so far, James! Before you glue those ab button plates on, I would recommend trimming them down even more. One of the things I see a lot is that the 4 button plate is too large, (note the 1/8 inch space on the side and 1/4 inch space on the bottom of the image below right). Even though the "hump" that the large plate sits on is slightly trapezoidal in shape (larger at the bottom), keep the large plate rectangular. Reference image Keep up the fantastic work!

Hi again, Nizam, and thank you for posting the additional photos! Before I get started on your submission, there are a few issues I am sure you can get taken care of so we can get you approved at EI! : 1. Nice job on sizing those a/kidney shims, but as per the CRL the seam will need to be flush (flat), not overlapped as it currently is. A seam is allowed at level 2, Shims fit flush and seams are allowed but they will need to be covered for level 3. This should be a fairly easy fix by removing the shims and butting the edge up flat against the kidney and then adding a cover strip behind it for reinforcement. You can also add some ABS paste to cover the seam, but it will need to be sanded down smooth if you choose to do that.. Here is a tutorial on ABS paste if you need one: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42866-how-to-make-abs-paste/ 2. Can you post up a few more detailed photos for me? Here is a list, along with some examples" a). TD screws- The ones on the top appear to be the required flat "pan" head, but the ones on the bottom look like round head. (It may be the camera angle, though): As per the CRL: Clips shall be attached with slotted, pan head style screws, and be black (two per clip) Reference image Yours b). Ab details- (Example) c). Interior Strapping- (Example) d). Bottom of cod/posterior plate showing snaps/rivet. (Example) e). Blaster- Looks like you did a spectacular job on that E-11, brother, so why not show it off! We will need left/right photos as shown below for level 2: (Example) (Example) Also, please list the baster type in your main post. Thanks again for your EI submission, and I have every confidence that you will do a great job on those shims, Nizan. Once they are done and the photos are posted we can move you along, Trooper

As I mentioned, you shouldn't have any problems with basic, depending on your GML. Those were minor suggestions for the higher levels, and you did an incredible job with that build. If it were me, this is what I would do with the ears: 1. Using a handful of Q-tips and some NON ACETONE (very important) paint remover, take the paint off the edges. 2. Tape off the area with blue painter's tape. (I have added a photo below, but bear in mind that I just did it on an existing bucket of mine for an example). 3. Hit the edges with a very light coat of white paint first. This will seal the edges of the tape and prevent any bleeding of the black, giving you a crisp line. 4. Let that dry for about 10-15 minutes. 5. Paint on the black, extending up a bit farther up the ear bump than it needs to be. ** 6. Remove the tape after 10 minutes. Otherwise, the tape can lift some of the paint off. 7. After the black completely dries, apply the gray, then the black on the rank stripe. ** The reason I suggest painting the black a little higher than it needs to be is that it is easier to make a straight line with the gray around the edges,

Looking sharp, and fantastic job on that AM armor, Jordan... this should be a super easy pass for basic ! (You are going to love that double snap system, I promise). A couple of things I noticed that will help you get to the next level: 1. A great paint job on that bucket, but the black around the ears could use some thinning out, and the ear bump could use some widening. Reference image In the first photo, your sniper knee plate wants to get caught under your thigh. This is a really common thing (I had it myself) and can be easily fixed by either adding a 8 x 1 x 1 inch piece of foam inside (behind the front cover strip) and/or making sure your left thigh is high enough. It seems to off a bit in the pic below. I can tell you really took your time on this armor, brother, and once you get basic approval, I expect to see your EI submission right after, sir! Great work!

In order to get the most responses, I would suggest this, Jordan: When you click on the photo(s) in your imgur library, choose the "Direct Link" option in the drop down box on the right. This will post them on here so that they can be seen. From the ones I looked at, you have some INSANELY nice connections, brother, (ab/kidney, back/kidney/back/posterior). B E A utiful!

Yes, the ones shown above are indeed single cap rivets.

The snaps are not a requirement, but adding them will definitely keep your belt level, especially when holstering your blaster. When you get the chance, please add a photo of your belt sitting level so we can get started with your approval, brother! Thanks!

Looks like you are well on your way, Jordan! Once you get basic approval, I will be looking for that EI submission soon after!

Nice job on that ATA armor, Jared! Tony or I will be with you shortly, brother. As for the belt, do you have snaps (as in the first photo) holding it in place or just the Velcro? The reason I ask is that the left side sits higher than the right. Also, you may want to take a can of black spray paint to the scope on your E-11. A little brass color is great, but that is a LOT! Reference image

A lot of that will depend on the particular connection. Some larger framed Troopers shooting for L3 have a problem with gaps between the a/kidney and kidney/back plates as well as what I call (for lack of a better phrase) "Trooper butt", where the posterior plate sticks way to far out under the kidney. Using nylon will help keep these areas tight and aligned, but can unfortunately restrict movement if there is not much wiggle room. Using elastic is great if you can get away with it on any connection, but as Chis mentioned, be sure to double it over before setting the snaps in in it. (I glue the double fold together before adding the snaps on mine for added strength).