TK bondservnt

I'm sure that you'd have to make some adjustments after getting a fully built kit. it would be almost impossible to get a perfect fitting from a build not done in your own house!

from what I understand he uses 25 snaps and about 3 yards of elastic. very little velcro. now if he was building them like sds and just glue and a single snap all velcro, I'd say they would come out fast. it all depends upon how you're putting it together on the inside.

imagine if you were making 15 suits of armor... how long would that take?

keeping things a bit loose allows for running.

AP now comes with accurate tips if you ask for them.

put some foam inside them to keep em in place.

hey@! I get another post just to say thanks for posting! hahah!~

it's an existing steam plant didn't you read where it is?

time has passed.

the sci fire is awesome. get one!~

nice job!~

interesting photos of the steam plant that was used for the set.

good show! :stormtrooper: :stormtrooper: :stormtrooper: :stormtrooper:

I sped up the frame rate. it does not show him allowing the back n cap to cool on the mould for 3 minutes. and he blows a bubble with his former to pull the wrinkles out before he drives the mould from below. the formech forming machine he's using cost well over 20k.

this is easy to answer. if you're going to the trouble of sculpting your own forms, and if you're a good enough artist you have the freedom to sculpt your own moulds. most sculptors take photos, measures, use overlays in photoshop and many other concepts to create their mould. as long as you don't dip someone's armor in silicone and cast it. then you're fine. take lessons from some of the master sculptors here on this forum, there are great examples in the TM suit, and TK 4702 has been doing some masterful sculpting and armor creation himself! here's a drawing I made showing measures on my AP helmet. --------------- on the original suits there are several details to consider: the helmet is not round when looking down at it from the top, it has a rounded square with it being off a little the abdomen plate side button panel has a divot at the bottom and the 4 button plate is glued over the top of it. abdomen plate near the cod is offset in the centerline detail to one side. abdomen plate has a twist in it's shape looking down at it from the top when wearing the ab plate. ab plate's vertical lines are offset on the horizontal axis, and they taper wide to thin as they go downwards on the vertical axis. the shin parts should meet at the calves in back, and on the original suits they were sometimes assembled offset at the top. usually parts are aligned from the top and then the bottoms are cut flush. the forearms taper and have subtle curves near the elbow and wrist, there is a wide taper on each side creating a oblong shape along the diameter. the shoulder bells taper near the top of the bicep. one bell has a flare on it's strip near the bottom, I believe it's the right shoulder. the chest ab kidney and back plates all have large 1/4" return edges on them for the mounting of hardware and elastic wire loops. for the best photos in the world look at these LFL photos. the yellowed armor is original, and the whiter color is the Shepperton design studio version. ---------------

I hear that the Ap builder is doing 14 kits. man... that must take a long time!

clamping a strip of metal to the legs to cut them works great!

why don't you just use wire for the hands and cover the wire bend, shape, easy. use some heavy wire and cotton and tape to make the hands. or try this LINK

I like that setup!

you can also get completed tubes set with parts from unique canes. http://yhst-5672966975550.stores.yahoo.net/star-wars.html

I asked about a cleaned up version because it would be cool to have the option of both types.

what a saga!~ bravo!

from what I understand the abs was a haircell type? is that correct? thanks so much rob for that information! can you give us more info on the material in your suit?

just to be clear I really like the RS props line of work. I just wish there were an idealized lid out there from this line. and martin... you really need to just keep your opinion about the way I format my posts to yourself, it has nothing at all to do with this awesome thread. in fact you should have just been a gentleman and taken the time to PM me about your OCD typesetting compulsions. back to the awesome RS props thread! mathias, wasn't the armor painted haircell hdpe? for stunt, and abs for hero? which is probably why the RS helmet and armor has the feature of being bumpy on the inside? since it was cast from the bumpy inside of the hdpe? I look forward to being corrected on this point!

I personally would not like a replica with bumps or waves or defects. the main shape but clean? can I get that? I'd like to see that... I guess I'm asking for a gino? is there any way I could get a RS props with a cleaned up texture? on some of the photos here it's clear that it's paint bubbling. it appears that to get the best result from RS props armor is to paint it. they cast : stunt armor hdpe painted. bumps. age... time ripples on the inside. so it is a replication of an industrial process for a background suit. the construction process results in a wavy or warped cast from the inside of the helmet because of the material used. it does NOT REPRESENT a true cast from the inside nor should it be used to cast replicas. what would happen if we had a hero suit cast? would it be better since it's abs? let's ask for a hero suit recast? while we love the hdpe replica can we not have the abs replica for anh armor? sure... it was hdpe for background... yet was not abs used for the hero suits?