TK bondservnt

3/4" sorry mate! only way to go! the width of the rail should be just a little smaller than the rear foot of the scope's width. the scope foot will overhang just a tad.. the scope's rear foot should align with the folding stock swivel. like real! stellar job on the magazine. I did the same thing with a hacksaw and a dremel wheel.

never use any of the solvents in this thread. seriously? goo gone? no way! lighter fluid? on my 1000k suit of precious armor? not even mguires is good enough for me. novus polish is the ONLY way to go if you don't want your armor to RUST from the metals, or solvents in ALL the products listed in this thread. please consider this thread for damaging incorrect advice. novus polish is even better than using water. see water has chemicals in it, and it has minerals. minerals sink into the plastic, since it's not fully solid. waxes introduce compounds that will speed yellow your abs. only balanced ph buffing compounds like novus protect the color. everything else will color the plastic over time.

to cut strips 1" aluminum flat bar 4 feet long. clamps 3 screw type C clamps hobby knife. 5' long x 5" wide plywood strip. finishing strip place plywood at a 45d angle on a table. finishing strip on plywood. clamp aluminum flat bar over the top of the strip with the clamp's screw points on the underside. don't use spring clamps, use screw clamps. use 3 clamps along the length of the aluminum strip. cut 3x with a heavy hand keeping the blade 90d as you cut. unclamp assembly. bend strip and press firmly as you go. the strip will snap.

I have seen some great armor from MTK. great person, great work.

long soak time? 10 hours?

testors paint or humbrol? hips or abs?

this trooper knows what I"m talking about !

well Im sure that dub vader can give advice on this topic..

after multiple years of armor making I'm sure that mark is going to stay around for quite a while. from what I understand he's stopped taking ready to wear orders until all orders are filled. kits are made at the former in runs, so it's not like he's forming the armor in his garage. it's a professional forming company and he has to get shipments from them, then he has to get shipments out, and it looks like he does not ship to usa addresses from where he is, they all go to a central usa location, and then are shipped domestically from there. if a suit is to be fully built then it has to be also shipped again to the builder, and finally to the trooper so if a suit goes through several shipment processes each time it takes away a week. some of the wait times can be 5-6 months from deposit to delivery. that's what I've seen happen. and mark has so many many orders that he won't mind at all if you get a refund. no problem. your order simply would go to the next person in line.

Gold Group... with stained boots!

the armor in the above photo is real and made of hips and cloth. forum link HERE

if you're going to use the doopy do's pipe build kit, not the full kit then here's a suggestion: grey electrical pvc conduit has a 1.5 outside dimension. it's not in the pvc section. 3/4" flat aluminum bar, long enough for a few sight rails. this way if you break one, it's no problem. use my plans in my signature for making the pipe and a basic placement of the doopy do's parts. if you're going to scratch build it, don't use the blaster builder's club plans. use zero room's plans located HERE make sure you read the whole thread.. the first post can be a little misleading!! it's a detailed read... some great detail comes out! you won't find the correct pvc pipe at lowes with the correct inner and outer dimensions. you should contact zero room for more details.

we want as much of the backstory as possible gentlemen... bravo! keep it coming! more more!

I wear silk gloves.

depends. .. hahah... extra padding and protection just when you need it. you know.... the old person diaper? wear a camelback and stay hydrated! just one more step towards the older generation undergarment selection. actually I've used the "shift to the left" but you have to be a good aim to hit the target with that helmet on. and you know it's not on the CRL to have yellow stained boots.

ouch... dang customs... make one from scratch. better deal.

do not go cushman. your only hope is the amazing sci fire version. wait for it. no... I mean you'll have to wait for it. I have the sci fire... it's worth 375 shipped. trust me.

sweet builds!~

using heat to shape injection moulded plastic might be a nightmare. since the rubies production line does not use thermoforming you might want to find a less invasive way of repair. it sounds like you're probably going to need filler or epoxy resin and some sanding. I'd probably strip the entire lid down and make the repairs using bondo or some other kind of strong plastic replacement. then after you've filled the crack and re-shaped everything I'd take it to an auto paint place and let them paint and wetsand it till it shines.

the pugman blaster, the original sculptor. now all we need is the official nod from GL. will this ever be mass produced?

I put a small square of sheet metal inside the counter and glued a nut to the back with a hole. simple to screw in a bolt.

ah me... always with the questions. oh.. the armor is brilliant! shin gaps and everythin'

is it correct? or needs mod?

why do the boots look like they have grey paint in the elastics?