TK bondservnt

I sure wish I had known how to do this. took only a few moments of my time to figure out. but I've tried to explain it before this is a pretty good photo example of part of the steps needed to remove the base 2 part mount. sometimes the secondary mount can cause trouble. that will be covered later in this series of mount removal photos.

here's a photostrip showing how to remove the base on a real m38 or m40 scope. this removes the base mount used on the tank. release pin first by prying the wire off the set brackets the hinge might need pressing from the other side with a pin and a hammer. (mine came off easy) so it's release pin first then pull out hinge. hope this helps people who get a scope with a mount attached.

best to just get a flight approved case that your airline can suggest. also best to use locks that are flight approved.

ANH left hand. anything else right hand.

glad to see RS props added. amazing product!

that's why e-6000 is so nice to use... easy removal. when still wet it's also easy to wipe off with a towel too...

are you going full armor with this helmet?

well it stands to reason how did a yellow paint run land inside a white armor. thanks mathias but I really do think that the suits were re-purposed from sandy back to white. that can be proven in fact. it also has the 3 button sandy plate. and single cod hole, holes on the knee plate, showing rivets... lot's of things.

the holster should have a notch cut in it already? are you wearing the standard AP holster? his cut is wrong. it just has a swoop, not a cut out. if you need any help photos would be great! any strange right handed notches in the holster for a right side mount would be wrong. some people try to holster the blaster on the right with the blaster facing forward. this is completely wrong. holsters on the right REQUIRE the blaster to be holstered with the grip handle facing front and the blaster is supposed to be "backwards" when holstered on the right. there are plenty of examples showing ANH style troopers holding the blaster in their left hand and shooting.

the RS props suit was used as a sandy, then used on the tantive IV hallway scene. the two paint passes explain a sandy first, then simply sprayed white for the last scene filmed in the movie... interesting that the first scene was shot last. we have photographic proof because of the RS props holster can clearly be seen in the tantive hallway. I'd go with painted for ANH stunt replicas. one of the paint runs inside the suit has yellow coloring running down.. sandy color first?

O how I love your builds!!! ears are fine! WOW WOW WOW

a real end cap and folding stock might be the solution? perhaps someone in the EU could help you with that?

set for fun!

well rob it's not just the amount of coils, it's the location of the setup, and the thickness of the wire. the connections of the wire and the path of it's circuit. and like I said, your wires look 'interesting' --------- my scanners report an idealized e-11 power cell arrangement. when will rob attach his accurate power cell replica with shaver wires...? the inside wire is not even connected to the inside cell rear, it simply folds over the top of the inside cell and then it attaches to the outside cell. so the inside capacitor is not connected with wire at all in the above illustration. the wire is simply laying over the top of it. the outside cell has the inner wire and the outer wire attached at the rear. also you can clearly see the hengstler is mounted very close on this e-11 and the 3 center capacitors can really easy be seen in this blowup. you can also see that this is a non blank firing e-11 with a wood block magazine. this is all pointed out in the spirit of troopers helping troopers. with a smile and a cheerful nod to accuracy!

while those wires look interesting... they are much thicker than what was used. and they have WAY to many coils on them. and you only connected them from the counter to the rear... look at the screen used wires. only 4 coils per side connected in series, not parallel. the shaver wires are 12 volt wires with double insulation. the screen used wires are 9 volt single insulated wire. the originals were battery connection wires.

the wires on an e-11 are not thick like rob suggests. they are actually thin wires like would be on a battery box or connection wires. think red and green electrical wire, brass woven plastic insulated red and green wires. see how the wires travel from the inside mounted on the counter, then 4 coils towards the front then the wire continues across the front and then connects to the back outer cell. the outer wire connects from the counter has 4 coils over the top and then they connect to the back of the outer cell along with the inner wire. the inner wire connects to the outer rear cell after the 4 coils. the outer wire connects to the outer rear cell after 4 coils and folds under connecting to the rear.

you can use glue on the trim if you want.

option 1 but put it closer to the main tube. the mag release should fit in between the cells. align to main tube.

trooperbay rocks!

RS props mentions that some of the finishing strips actually taper.

nice subtle weathering!

not bad. some of the details are a fraction off... but overall I'd say it's a pretty fair rendition of the e-11 T Tracks, front sight, and power cells were my main concerns... the muzzle is twisted a bit, and the the scope details and hengstler details are really nice, the clip details are also really nice!~ the rear end cap lock should be overhanging the end cap, and the bolt should have the breech blade across it. with a centered and hollowed out front sight, and better T Tracks this would really kick it up a notch! the inner spring also would really be fun to see? is it in there? it's missing some silver on the trigger group, and the glossy grips vs a flat body would really make it even better lookin!~ lot's to share... hope it helps out!

it looks pretty light even these days. you must have sourced it from online then? looks like wayne has one way mirror film in one of his lids. I did that on my ESB lid.

really? oh? it looks a lot like the AP stuff.