ukswrath

Darren these both Anovos?

Have a sewing machine? If yes I'd trim it back to within 1" of the Velcro closest to thearmor. If no machine check with your GML, they'll give you some honest approval advice.

And professional automotive painters use 400 grit before final paint, so yea no higher than 600/800

ABS paste works great, though I've also used tub and tile filler on a couple armors, So long as the color matched it works beautifully, not to mention there's no gluing, sanding or painting. Oh and the armor is ready to wear in 30 minutes lol

Judge for yourself (reference photo below). That said with the sniper knee below the thigh increases mobility and helps eliminate armor bites.

IMHO think the brow is just fine however, the CRL is changing stating there should be an some white seen underneath. If you plan on shooting for the higher levels you might want to raise it a bit.

Ah! thanks

Greblie? Apparently there's some inaccuracies. I'm sure something will come out in the CRL update whenever it gets started, til then build away. How the yoke and back are assembled is pretty clear, especially when it comes to the seamless areas. I don't foresee any changes to the CRL that may contradict what's screen accurate.

Coming along nicely Nick

There a few solutions to prevent this from straps to snaps to velcro. I simply place a 1-1/2" square patch of white Velcro on the front upper portion of my boot and the same desired area inside my shin. It's worked for me for years. Thighs look awesome, don't forget to paint the rivet heads.

We're here for ya when you're ready

Done yet? JK Coming along nicely

Sorry for the late Greg, following you on the Anovos group, got side tracked. Looking good brother

You're braver than I am with my machine lol

Me neither. In my opinion this also goes for the snaps. Use good quality snaps, I personally use DOT or Fasnap, very high quality. I use the single snap method and I've never had a snap fail. I know some people use double so it's completely up to you.

Minor gaps between the ears and helmet are perfectly acceptable. As Lou mentioned try to align the upper and lower ear screws with the trailing edge of the trap. FYI neither have to be perfect.

I bought expensive inserts. IP have very little support so standing in them for hours kills me.

I've never understood this but apparently as Glen mentioned there's a reason behind the hype. I don't do it personally

GO SHARKS!

I would suggest giving the straps a hot water bath to give them some curvature. If you need instructions how to do this let us know.

That ^^^^

Adding additional material to hold it down is completely up to you and no it will not have any bearing on any level of approval. That said, if you have enough material attached to the bell (I use at least 1-1/2") and allow the glue to cure completely you'll be fine.

That sould be fine yes

As glen mentioned if possible 4-5 rungs on the chest plate, how many that remain on the back doesn't matter really so log as they're relatively centered on the back plate tabs.