ukswrath

Sounds good Jim, one thing I've learned from building armor, one persons assembly technique doesn't always work for everyone. I'm glad you found your nitch and went with it. Great job

In this HOW TO I'll be illustrating how to modify and attach Wyatt's Imperial cloth gaskets to a FOTK under suit from stormtrooperundersuit.com. After receiving my gaskets from Wyatt my first impression was they appeared flat in thickness in comparison to the rubber gaskets. No disrespect to Wyatt's wife for making these excellent gaskets however, being I can never leave well enough alone I decided to add to the perfection and increase their thickness. Something that also frustrated me about most the gaskets out there was having to buckle the left and right arms together or velcro the gasket to the armor. I wanted something that would basically be part of the under suit itself so that I could step into my armor with less effort, like with a OT TK. To do this I found it easier to just sew the Imperial gaskets directly to the under suit. Items needed: Cloth Imperial Gaskets Under suit form stormtrooperundersuit.com 2" x 6" black Velcro (sew in type) 2 yards of 1/2" polyester filler 2 yards of fabric backing to seal in the filler Tools: Scissors Exacto or similar (split seams) Fabric pencil or similar Sewing machine Imperial gaskets Stormtrooperundersuit.com under suit Starting with the legs, measure, cut and sew filler and backing to underside of knee gaskets. Next, remove stitching from shoulder gaskets seems Sew in filler and backing. With the shoulder gaskets turned inside out, sew the seams together that you separated earlier. Before After. Notice any difference? Returning to the legs. Locate the center of the leg gaskets. Cut a 2" x 2-1/2" section of velcro. Note This only applies if you currently have velcro retaining your knee cap armor. If not you may want to switch or find a way to incorporate your mount into the gaskets. Place the velcro on the fabric and outline Sew in place At this point there's two ways you can go here, either sew the seams together creating a round gasket where the outer diameter is the same at the top and bottom, or you can taper it, like the shape of your leg. If you want to taper it, using a fabric tape ruler measure the upper and lower legs where the gaskets will reside when finished. Cut the fabric accordingly giving yourself 1/2" extra for the sewing seam. Another way to do this is to turn the gasket inside out, wrap it around your leg overlapping one side, using a fabric pencil mark the over lapped section. Don't forget to add 1/2" for seam. Sew the seam. After With the armor knee cap. With under suit With armor, test fit Ready to sew in place Install leg and shoulder gaskets. Mark under suit and gasket locations. Sew in place. Cut of shoulder gasket connecting straps as they are no longer needed After, front side After, back side Finished I'll try to get a few more pictures with better angles.

It's nice to actually see someone using the reference pics we have at our finger tips Keep up the good work Jim

Rolling shiny on the road to Valhalla!

Yes however, they could stand to be a tad closer in my opinion. The general rule is a #2 pencil width from the face, roughly 7mm. Mine are around 8mm Edit: Btw in case anyone is curious, neither Sly or myself will be dragging out a ruler for this during approvals. If it's in the ball park you're good to go otherwise we'll recommend you correct it.

20,000 mAh

Exactly. The head size is up to the manufacturer and/or its process, it has nothing to do with the shank size.

Yes unless the tube stripes are too far from the face. We've seen some as far away as 5/8". They're supposed to be a pencil width, give or take a smidgen Haven't posted the electronics yet. Waiting for the trooper to receive 501st approval first and thanks for the kind words.

11b. Waist belt Centurion Update In this section I'll be illustrating how to replace the Anovos supplied belt and install a more accurate, required belt. In this case I'll be using a belt from Kittle. Remove old belt. Remove holster and drop boxes. Drill rivet heads holding cloth belt to ammo belt. Old cloth belt Flip over and drill out rivet head. Separate the sections. Use something to gently pry rivet cover off ammo belt. Note: The cap is held on with plastic welder adhesive, very strong. If your having difficulty removing the cap a hot water bath or similar may assist in softening the glue. I know a butter knife isn't the best tool for the job but it worked. After removal. I damaged the ammo belt under center cap, no biggie, easy to fix. Using a dremel or other finished removing the remaining glue from the caps and belt. Slight detour. Using garage sale sign material I repaired damages to belt from the back side. Using E6000 or other to adhere. After Back on track. Measure, locate and mark the center of cloth belt Center ammo belt with cloth belt vertically and horizontally. Mark the cloth belt using the center, left and right ammo belt to cloth belt mounting holes Preparing the cloth belt for mounting. Since the male snaps are already mounted installing the cloth belt is pretty simple. First I measured the distance of overlapping ammo belt, which ends up being roughly 8mm. I placed the cloth belt on the ab just below the ab button mount lower edge. Measuring up 8mm to ensure the the ammo belt did not cover any of the painted buttons. Next I took a lead pencil and marked the top of the male snaps Afterwards ensuring the belt was horizontal with the ab I pressed the belt against the male snaps leaving pencil material on the belt. After this I double and triple checked the alignment and height. Moving on. Using a 1/8" leather punch create holes for the mounting snaps. Install female "S" snaps then test fit belt. Continue and create holes to attach cloth belt to ammo belt. Using 1/8" x 1/4" pop rivets and washers connect cloth and ammo belts. Afterwards test fit belt again. Apply E6000 glue to caps and install. Let dry. Installing drop boxes Cut two sections of 3/4" x 10" elastic. Overlap the ends and punch a 1/8" hole roughly 1/2" from the end of the elastic. Wrap elastic around cloth belt. Align drop box with ammo belt, mark drop box through newly created holes in elastic. Drill 1/8" holes in drop boxes at marked locations. Using 1/8" x 1'4" rivets with washers secure elastic to drop box. As previously mentioned in EIB belt modification, glue drop box elastic to to cloth belt. Installing holster Using template measure 20mm from ammo belt edge and 15mm from cloth belt lower edge. Mark location Check holster alignment Using a 3/16" leather punch create holster holes in cloth belt Using Anovos Chicago screws mount holster. Finished.

14b. Hand Guard, Centurion Update In this section I'll be illustrating how to install flexible hard guards, not supplied by Anovos. Anovos supplied are obviously made of ABS plastic which are accepted at 501st basic and EIB however, rubber are required for Centurion. Anovos Besides trimming down the height of the plastic to around 1/4", how to install it is quite simple. Using the Anovos supplied velcro attach a section (with sticky backing) to the underside of the plastic hand guard. Attach the above shown hand strap then slide the strap over your hand. Note: The hand guards are left and right specific. To illustrate the Centurion level installation I'll be using a set of Joseph's hand guards and the Anovos supplied gloves. Using alcohol or similar clean the top of the glove and the bottom of the rubber hand guard. Test fit. Note: The hand guards are left and right specific as mentioned above. The front of the hand guards are to be aligned with the lowest section between your fingers like so. Left hand Prepare to install. I personally install foam into the glove prior to gluing the guard. Apply painters tape to top of guard. Add glue then attach to glove. Wrap with additional tape and let dry. Note: I use CA glue when attaching hand guards, works better for me than E6000. Finished. Clean off excess glue if necessary

15b. Helmet Modifications for Centurion and Accuracy (part 2) Part 1- http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-ukswraths-anovos-tk-build/?p=475530 Finishing off the helmet, let's start with accurate foam insert, again this is for accuracy only. There's nothing that says you have to do it this way. Padding or hard hat insert doesn't matter for any level of approval. Reference pic Using 1/2" to 3/4" foam cut out a section similar to this. Install in helmet Chin strap Starting with to 8" x 3/4" black elastic, fold over the ends 1" and sew Center at each end and punch a 1/8" hole through both sections. Install a male "S" snap on one end of of one elastic, a female on the other Check operation before installing in helmet Install on lower ear stud and secure with nut Finished. Ready for polishing Part 1- http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-ukswraths-anovos-tk-build/?p=475530

All right Jay, thank you for your EIB application let's get started CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required photos are present. First off I would like to say it is my joy and pleasure to review your application. Shortly after joining the 501st and FISD myself you contacted me here regarding helmet assembly advice. There I had the opportunity to mentor you. You were the first person I mentored. I've been inspired ever since just watching you learn, build and now help others. Troopers Helping Troopers is what's it's all about and you my friend are an excellent example of just that. On another note, that's one beautiful set of armor you have there, excellent build. The Golden Gate Garrison will be proud to have another MTK EI in the ranks that's for sure Jay, your armor meets all the necessary elements to qualify for EIB. With that Sly and myself would like to congratulate and welcome you Expert Infantry!! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: In this section we will discuss observations made by your fellow troopers and/or ourselves. These may contain suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. The only concern we have visually is we would like to see you tightening up the shoulder bells. You can do this by simply shortening the upper bell to shoulder strap, and by removing some of the lower bell return edge. Centurion Suggestions: In this section we analyze the armor a bit deeper preparing you for your Centurion application if you choose to apply. Besides replacing the Hasbro blaster which is required for Centurion we would also like you to address the following items. According to the CRL the drop boxes are to reside just below the ammo belt, you have a little bit of a gap. Raising them a bit would make that section of you armor look even better. Your TD clips are to be butted against the end caps like so. Simply reposition them and you should be ready to go. Just a few corrections and you'll be ready to rock Centurion. You can do it Jay

Hey Adam, you're not alone in this arena. My suggestion would be to tighten the left side so there's little to no gap. A single nylon connecting strap at the top, let the belt do all the work at the bottom. This allows you to get in and out of the armor easier still accomplishing the same goal. That said, if it's too difficult still breathing in "CLICK" breathing out then yes you may have to shim.

So if you remove the upper thigh return edge can you regain some room to work with the or are you maxed out in that area no matter what? Your front cover strip it too long. It supposed to stop just above the return edge as seen here. The frown looks good, make sure your paint runs into the gum line.

Hey Jay we'll be right with you brother.

No not really, heck we have troopers all day long adding shims to the armor however, the question is are these faint cut lines visible? If not no worries, if they are cover them up with filler. With Jim's photo above he could easily add room by simply removing the upper return edge off the thigh. I'm not sure what the main issue is at this moment, still waiting for a reply.

Nothing says it cant be used The $1 store flour sifter was a cheaper alternative suggestion.

Purchase one from Terrell at ATA, They're very close to Anovos in color and dimensions. [email protected]

The Anovos armor in kit form or assembled, though not stated anywhere, is designed for someone 5'9"-6', 150-175lbs, with a 28-34" waist line. Outside those specs you may have to take away from or add to the armor for proper fitment.

My first set of armor was overlap, with CA glue. I was able to split the seams with a hammer and butter knife. Rebuilt the entire armor to SWAT level. It's doable if you have the patience and stomach

That is good news, I don't have to start another mod thread hahaha Just pre ordered the Disneystore version, can't wait. Cheers

May I suggest pulling in the shoulders in a bit. Also, try to raise the ab if possible, if not install a strap to hold down the chest. Just a thought

The Anovos is very similar to ATA in size.

YESSSS!!! that's it