ukswrath

Thanks for your input.

One suspension kit remaining.

There's not much that is asymmetrical about screen accurate OT TK armor. That's the beauty of it. As you get into fan sculpted versions you begin to see these imperfections fade away and the sculptors versions stand out, we call that sanitizing. IMO some sanitizing was good for the armor, others will tell you I'm a traitor.

The industrial (usually in a can) will but the spray I've tried on 3 different type with no melting issues however, if your unsure always test it on an unseen area first.

The hearing units I sell will work yes because they have a voltage regulator built on to the PCB. The AMP 2 no, not without installing a voltage regulator as illustrated above. Hope this answers your question

Hello RafZwicke, welcome to the FISD. Thank you for your kinds words. Any improvements you may have feel free to share them. Making a better system for those interested in such things is our goal here. Cheers

So awesome. This is what's it's all about right here

Hey Ricky! Another GGG brother to approve, loving it! Thank you for your EIB application. CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All requested photos are present and your armor meets all the requirements for EIB. Sly and myself would like to congratulate you on achieving Expert Infantry rank!! Great job Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: In this section we discuss observations made by your fellow troopers as well as our own. Though the suggestions are to make you look your best none of the following will effect your EIB application. 1) We would like to see you bring in the shoulder bell to cover gap in the front. There should be very little to no gap at the top. From the back they look great. Could be just a simple picture adjustment. Reference photo 2) If you could adjust your thighs a bit, one appears to be higher then the other. Centurion suggestions: In this section we try to prepare you for Centurion. Sly, myself or your fellow brothers may suggest areas needing improvement. We have a few areas we would like to see addressed if you choose to shoot for Centurion. 1) Your waist belt is sitting low on the left hand side we would like to see it raised so that's even with the right. Also, as you may or may not know the Anovos cloth belt is not excepted at Centurion level. Simply replacing it you can kill two birds with one stone here, if you know what we mean. Reference photo 2) Though not a requirement we would like to see the Anovos Hovi screens updated to something more accurate. The mesh should be much heavier. Reference photo That's it. Great Job Ricky. Just a few adjustments and we'll see you at Centurion.

It's just another option, different strokes for different folks I like to say. There's now two less buckles and one less thing for a handle to deal with. Just slip on the suit, then armor and go.

Great job Jeff, welcome to the ranks trooper

Glad to be of service. If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask myself or any of the other experienced TFA builders Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

If you add it to the 5v system you should be ok. Just don't run fans off the same system or you may get the old car radio whining sound.

Noted

It's exactly what I use in two of my helmets, rom/FX and my hovis Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

Your are correct, ROM/FX states it can take 9v or 12v. Mine came with a 9v battery pack, so I'm personally more comfortable with 9v. Thanks for the question.

Which part? The iComm not needing to be converted or the battery will eventually go dead?

Correct. The iComm is self powered hence the reason when the battery goes dead internally they quit working. FYI for the masses

I love my FO TK as well

There will always be a need for someone to keep the light lit to remind us where we came from and how to get back. We wouldn't expect anything less from reputable armor builders.

New thread is up. Couldn't fit all the images on the original page 1 so I made a new thread seeing that one is getting old anyways... yada yada yada http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/36733-helmet-electronics-and-external-power-supply-gen-4-ukswrath/

Previous versions http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/29534-helmet-electronics-and-external-power-supply-updated/ Generation 4 power supply update 4/12/16 Due to Anker discontinuing the Astro Pro 2 I updated the power supply used to run my helmet electronics. As you may know I also didn’t care for the Anker minimum mA draw required to sustain the output voltages. As good fortune may have it I found a suitable replacement that doesn’t require any special operation, just plug it in and go. The following illustrates what was replaced, upgraded or completely removed. Disclaimer: This information is provided for entertainment purposes only. Modifying any electrical component to be used for something other than it was intended may be hazardous. I DO NOT encourage or recommend you do so. Doing so you except full responsibility. Alright, with that out of the way let’s get to it. As mentioned above some components were replaced, upgraded or removed. In the parts list I will indicate changes in RED Parts: 1x Antigravity Mini (replacing Anker Astro Pro 2) $75 - http://www.amazon.com/Antigravity-Batteries-AG-XP-5-Multi-Function-Starter/dp/B00MYA6OCW?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00 1x Cat5e 3’ standard patch cable (replacing 3’ 8pin mini din cable) $11 – http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-5-Pack-Snagless-Ethernet/dp/B00C2CBBAM?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00 or 2' https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XIFRSMC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 2x RJ45 extension cable, 1’ (replacing female mini din connector) $8 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FVRU3RM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 1x USB right angle extension cable, 8” (updating current USB extension) $6 – http://www.amazon.com/UCEC-USB-2-0-Extension-Cable/dp/B00W9BAAXK?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00 1x 9v voltage regulator L7809CV (for ROM/FX conversion) $.56 – http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/stmicroelectronics/L7809CV/497-1448-5-ND/585969 1x 7.4v Voltage regulator L78S75CV (for Amp 2 (aker) conversion) $.91 - http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/stmicroelectronics/L78S75CV/497-14164-ND/1663449 1x 5v Voltage Regulator (though not mentioned in the tutorial it's used with the hearing aid) $.44 - http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/stmicroelectronics/L7805CV/497-1443-5-ND/585964 22AWG connectors 10 pairs $6 (x2) - http://www.amazon.co...AWG 150mm Cable Heat Shrink kit - http://www.amazon.co...heat shrink kit Inline fuse holder and 5A fuse: Inline fuse holder - http://www.amazon.com/1st-Source-In-line-Fuse-Holder/dp/B0002KR8EE/ref=sr_1_23?ie=UTF8&qid=1462199662&sr=8-23&keywords=inline+fuse+holder 5amp AGC fuse - http://www.amazon.com/Quality-brand-Fast-Blow-6X30mm-SHIPPING/dp/B009NTSRFO/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1462200118&sr=8-6&keywords=AGC+5A+fuse Other components: Ukswrath SHA (hearing assist) $60 – http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32487-ukswraths-stormtrooper-hearing-assist-system/ Ukswrath Hovi Audio system with iComm $260 - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31436-fs-Ukswraths-hovi-mic-tips-with-speakers-crl-accurate-tips **NOTE: The iComm does not need any modifying it has it's own battery source** Ukswrath cooling kit - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35994-ukswraths-cooling-fan-kits/ Echo's personalized bracket (no fans, with extra on/off switches) $32 - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/24372-fs-helmet-fan-system-echos/ 5v Cooling fans $6 – Amazon - http://www.amazon.com/Vktech-Brushless-Cooling-0-1-0-3A-50x15mm/dp/B00EL938E6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1419394826&sr=1-1&keywords=Vktech+5Pcs+Black+Brushless, Ebay - http://www.ebay.com/itm/261690004729?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT 1x Omni-directional microphone $20 – Ear phones/buds $30 - http://www.amazon.co...0?ie=UTF8&psc=1 or equivalent. ROM/FX $160 - http://www.romfx.com/ "Power Supply" "Helmet" Assembly Starting with the battery. Remove the battery cable clamps and installed the inline fuse holder and 5A fuse. Remove female connector from USB extension cable Split the insulation and separate the wires. On a typical USB 2.0 terminal the outer most terminals are the 5v positive and negative. The color code is generally red, white, black & green. Red and white are generally +&-, the green and black are data. Since we won't be using the data we'll trim those back. Carefully install the USB into the battery pack and test the wires for battery voltage. Note; You may have to manually power on the device if it doesn't automatically detect your meter and power on. Mark the harness and note down indicating the power source. Now take the RJ45 female connector and removed the male side, split the insulation exposing the wires. NOTE: This particular cable manufacturer, like many others may not follow any particular color code scheme or may even switch color code at times. Understanding what you’re looking at is the key here. I highly suggest you read up on data connection cabling, specifically Cat5 since that’s what I’m using. After peeling back the insulation I proceeded to connect the wires as per the “Power Supply” diagram. Afterwards I confirmed the output voltage. At the same time if you plan on installing any audio pass through (use the the other unused wires for audio or other) install the other connectors as well as per the wiring schematic. Be sure to install shrink wrap as you'll be covering the bare connections along the way. Once finished heat shrink the whole bundle. To test the battery and harness output I installed a spare RJ45 patch cable with exposed wiring the using a volt meter tested voltage output and resistance through the audio connectors (not shown) Helmet power supply harness Similar to the helmet harness I peeled back the second RJ45 female connector and connected the helmet harness connector as per the wiring schematic. Connect the helmet power supply harness to the existing helmet component harness and confirmed fan and SHA operation. Amp 2 Installing voltage regulator Just a friendly reminder, you're doing this at your own risk. FYI, this voids any and all warranties lol PCB and Voltage 7.4v regulator. I started by locating the battery pins and marking which terminal was + and -. Afterwards I removed the battery supply pins. Prepare to install voltage regulator. Install regulator Install the battery supply harness Check input voltage to AMP 2 PCB. before the regulator it 12v, PCB voltage is 7.5v Installing ROM/FX 9v voltage regulator Locate and mark battery source terminals Remove original battery wiring. Install new regulator After attaching the battery supply harness test input on PCM voltages. Helmet battery supply harness installed Checking components (Amp 2 if FO TK bucket). Battery supply placed in three different locations on my FOTK Chest Left forward pouch Left rear pouch On the OT TK you can vecro it to your chest plate. Enjoy

Paul has a very good point, enjoy yourself in your armor. No one is saying you HAVE to look this way or that. Though EIB &Centurion and their requirements are for those who want to shoot for the best your armor can be, it's not for everyone. If you don't agree with what is required to achieve those levels then that's ok. I've never been to a single troop where you and your peers stand around looking at each others armor, or inquiring "Is that Centurion level armor assembly?". Yes everyone wants to look their best but in all reality NO BODY CARES what level accuracy your armor is built to, especially the fans. All they care about is that you let them be apart of this Star Wars world, even for a brief second. Go out, have fun, bring a smile to others

:happy and cheerful birthday:

Hello Gregory, Thank you for updating your "D" ring picture and EIB submission. CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All photos are now present. Your armor meets all necessary elements to qualify for EIB. With that we'd like to congratulate you on your new "Expert Infantryman" status!! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: Another quality build we have. In this section we may point out areas that we feel that need a little work to improve the overall look of your armor, these will not effect your EIB status. As for suggestions we think it would be best if you maybe shortened your waist belt. It looks to be 6-8" too long. Shortening it would make your armor look cleaner, more polished. Centurion suggestions: In this section we try to prepare you for Centurion. Sly, myself or your fellow brothers may suggest areas needing improvement. We have a few areas we would like to see addressed if you choose to shoot for Centurion. 1) Though it's not very much make sure the back to kidney gap is minimal. 2) Thermal Detonator plate extends past the molding (return edge) line. We suggest trimming this back and re-centering. Also, the TD belt clip appears to be almost a full 1" wider then the cloth belt. You might want to trim it down a bit so it's not digging into your butt plate. Reference image 3) Cover strips should aligned with the return edge. We notice on your biceps and thighs your cover strips are quite a distance from the armor return edge though it looks like you have plenty of room to work with. We suggest if possible, remove the cover strips, trim the armor then reinstall the strips again, aligning them with the return edge. Reference images 4) Calf cover strips in the wrong position. Similar to your arms and legs you can stand to remove some material and move the cover strip over. Also the cover strips is to be used for the closing connection between the outer and inner halves. Reference image 5) Drop box alignment. The drop boxes need to be aligned with the outermost ammo belt edge. You can remedy this by simple gluing the connecting strap to the cloth belt. Reference image. Seen here with Han, even bent over his remain aligned Great looking build Gory, hope to see you at Centurion

Hello Dave, Thank you for your patience and EIB submission. CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All photos are present and your armor represents all necessary elements to qualify for EIB. With that Sly and myself would like to congratulate and welcome you to "Expert Infantry" Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: In this section we point out any areas we feel may need a little work to improve the overall look of your armor. Though it's not big issue we would suggest bringing in the shoulder bells even closer to eliminate the bell to chest gap, especially on the left arm. I like to to use this reference picture a lot because it illustrates tight fitting armor. Reference pic Centurion suggestions: In this section we try to prepare you for Centurion. Sly, myself or your fellow brothers may suggest areas needing improvement. 1) Flexible hard guards. According to the CRL you hand guards will need to be replaced with the flexible ones. For level three certification (if applicable): Hand guards shall be latex or latex-like, painted white, affixed to rubber gloves in lieu of plastic hand guards. 2) The Crl states your drop boxes need to be aligned with the outermost edge of the ammo belt. Gluing the mounting straps should remedy this issue. For level three certification (if applicable): Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box. Reference photo 3) Clean up the kidney to shim connection. The CRL states there can only be one seam between the kidney and ab. We see that you added shims, great job BTW. We would like to see you clean up the connection better, make it look more uniform, like it's one piece. 4) As a suggestion only we would like to see pan head screws used on the Thermal Detonator, yours appear to be "V" screws. Reference pic 5) Another suggestions would be to replace your Hovi screens with something more accurate, a heavier mesh. There are a few tutorials illustrating how to replace this if you choose to do so. Reference image 6) After careful review it looks as if your shins are assembled incorrectly. You look to have two inners on one side leg and two outers on the other. I know the shins being mismarked by Anovos in some kits has been a nightmare. If you choose to shoot for Centurion we'll need you reassemble them correctly. When finished each side should be proportionate to the other. Thanks again for your app and welcome to EIB trooper