ukswrath

Yes + adding the 1/2" for space

Sorry for the confusion. In my build tutorial I mention a 1/2" rule. In other words, if possible give yourself a minimum of 1/2" gap between your body and the armor. This is a guideline only. There is no specific amount to take off or to leave on. The armor has a natural taper to it and so it is a general rule to follow the taper of the armor when trimming excess material. After the front has been assembled and you've measured your legs, and following the 1/2" rule you should have a good idea on how much YOU will remove. If I didn't state this information in my build is because everyone is different and I don't want anyone to follow behind me using my specific specs, especially if it doesn't apply to them. In my build I illustrate that once you have an idea how much you want to remove, do so equally between halves, especially at the bottom. Hope this helps

Just an FYI I'm not going to start a list until I've been able to successfully make them. If peeps want to stay on top of the progress just follow my SHA sales thread. Cheers

Sorry Chris my last post was intended for another trooper.

If you need more movement remove the return edge.

Actually it looks fine where it is.

Looking good. The image is from head level so it's really hard to say how it looks straight on and if it needs any corrections.

5 minutes and you're rolling You can find mine here if your interested > http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35994-ukswraths-cooling-fan-kits/

Yes. It's called lack of fresh air and too much carbon dioxide. Combine that with body heat and you have a recipe for disaster. 1) My first suggestion is to insure you are hydrated enough. On hot days, the day before load yourself up with water and electrolytes. 2) Take plenty of breaks and if you have a handler make sure they're doing their job. A lot of times you won't know your in trouble until it's too late. It's their job to gut check you every so often and carry water or similar. 3) If you don't have them already, get helmet fans. Either make a kit yourself, or there's a couple of us selling kits. Placing them at the base of your helmet will help to draw in fresh air. 4) Other suggestions are cooling devices to help keep cool. Head, neck and chest cooling material or devices. Hope this helps

Excellent, then you may have to add 1" elastic or nylon from the bicep to the bell to hold them up higher in you armpit.

You could stand to reduce the diameter a bit. Also, if you connect the forearms to the biceps using 2" elastic like with screen used armor it would prevent them from sitting on your wrists regardless. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

oops: yes

With the exception of the waist belt replacement ($35) the armor itself is Centurion worthy straight out of the box. It's all about how you assemble it. Basic or Centurion we'll except you just the way you are. If you change your mind let us know, we can help.

Hey Shea, in my Anovos build the pack does NOT line up with the cover strip as seen here. In some of my other builds maybe . It can be centered or offset as seen in these reference pics. Hope this helps

You are correct you do not have to build it to L2 or L3 but we do have Anovos applicants at both levels. I would like to encourage you to build yours to Centurion, why stop at basic. YOU CAN DO IT! Sorry for the hijack Vern

Hey Andy, Q. I am thinking of getting FOTK Armor. Can anyone help out with the different venders who are selling them? A. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/34166-first-order-stormtrooper-resource-guide/ Q. I do not know how thick the abs is in Anovos? I am worrying about it cracking down the road? A. edit: 1.5+mm, If you assemble it correctly you SHOULD be ok. Q. I am thinking about the vender in the South Pacific that is made from fiberglass? A. Yes, Jimmi's is pretty nice. Haven't heard any negative feedback from his customers so I'm assuming it's pretty decent. I am concerned about the helmet being in fiberglass and breathing the inside of the Helmet? Maybe one of his customers could answer this question, let's see if any answer here. Hope this helps

The left side ab to kidney rivets - white Thigh ammo pack mounting rivets - white Ear screws - white Thermal Detonator screws - black Edit: The type of paint doesn't matter

For 501st basic approval they'll be fine, for L2 (EIB) and above no. For level two certification (if applicable): There is no seam present on the front of the boot.

Thanks Chris, we're all here to help, that's most important.

Padding the wrist is an popular option, so yes going that route is perfectly acceptable. Follow the "GO TO" link in my signature below. At the top of the following page is my ATA rebuild thread. There I illustrate how to disassemble rebuild armor from the ground up. Wasn't a fun experience but I learned a lot, not to mention it helps others in the same predicament. Hope this helps

Hey John, to answer your forearm question, it depends on what adhesive you used to apply the cover strips. If you used E6000, simply remove the cover strip. If its CA (superglue) you're better off leaving it as is being you run the risk of damaging the armor, unless you're a "I can do anything" type of person, in that case I have a perfect rebuild tutorial that may help.

Nice blaster btw Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

Two sized snaps and doubly snaps? To be honest, and this just my opinion, why? I've running single snap for some time now, never an issue. I'm all for creativity and improvements but if you use quality snaps you shouldn't have any issues. I agree with Kman, why two different size snaps, just curious. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

The material I ordered arrived but was too thin. Reordered another sheet @ .040. Should be here in the couple days Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk