ukswrath

Absolutely Jeff, thank you

I have some WTF being shipped to me for a customer of mine. Really looking forward to working with this armor.

There are those that would suggest every aspect of the armor should be canon. That's not what the FISD is about thank goodness. Yes we want troopers to look as accurate as possible however, making it realistic to do so is just as important .

Yep, whatever is easiest for you

Though I totally agree with you this technically falls under the same issue as the kidney notch. After heavy discussion and debate it was decided to NOT impose the change on the buyer. We can encourage the suppliers to update their specs and process but until everyone is up to speed it remains an either/or area. There are enough facts available for suppliers to know what's canon or not however, as Glen mentioned mandating it would prevent many builders from reaching the higher levels of accuracy. If you want to put some wordage together we can discuss it further.

My suggestion would be to add the velcro after approvals

MUCH better . Remove more return edge as needed for comfort. Also, don't forget to trim the cover strips, they're not to extend past the upper and lower return edges. Copy

Rogue One Remove all references to AM armor, still needed? (mentioned in Chest & Back armor sections) Forearms L1, "Closed in the back, may be secured with velcro". NOTE: Jim's armor in the CRL photo has velcro Thigh Armor L1, "Closed in the back, may be secured with velcro" L3, did we decide to not go with the connecting material (suspension) & buckles, or is this still up for discussion?

Back to the OTTK, Hand Guards L3, so we're not going to require gluing the guards to the gloves? What if someone applies with them velcroed? Shoulder Armor L3, I thought we agreed add the following "There should be minimal gap between Shoulder Armor and Chest & Back plates" E-11 Blaster L3, can we also add Rubies blaster to the "not accepted" list? We're seen a couple people try to convert them for the higher levels.

Also, forgot to mention glue the shoulder plate elastic to the inside of the armor, this will prevent it from moving.

Of course you can try the hot water bath I'm just concerned already fragile material weakening even more. Another option would be to add a 1" square section of white industrial strength velcro to the tail end of the cover strip and back plate. I had to do this a one of my armors, works great and nobody knows it's even there.

Are you referring to the thigh supports? I don't see what you're referring to in your photo sorry.

Hot bath, E6000 deteriorate, sometimes. You can do that or move the L3 elastic that secures the covers (straps) to the back plate

What he said

Nope, always painted mine.

You're the only person who will notice it

Packing (from my perspective). NOTE: Old shirts placed in between most sections. 1) Ab, Kidney and Posterior remain together and are placed on one end of the tote with the ab buttons facing the foam. 2) Inside the Ab I place the thighs, inside the thigh shins. 3) Chest and Back are next, collapsed, nothing inside. 4) Next helmet and boots. 5) Drop in the smaller storage box above the helmet and boots. 6) Place belt and soft goods and belt above chest/back . 7) Forearms drop inside shins, biceps and and bells lay across everything else.

Shin cover strip - NOTE: Some GMLs are strict enough to deny your basic approval with the cover strip being incorrectly installed. If you don't have enough, place a shorter section at the top, mix up a little ABS paste and fill the gap. Polish and go.

As a matter of fact Kirill none of this is required, especially the "mic clicks". Some will even say adding anything to the armor takes away from the accuracy of it. I say bla! to that lol . There are plenty of inexpensive routes you can take, the reason we mention the above systems is because of experience. I have a box full of spare speakers, amps, mics, etc from the years of testing however, these aren't for everyone. Being creative is what this hobby is all about. You never know you might be the one to develop the next cool system

What Daniel said

Good call

So my only concern here is if you trimmed it back far enough to remove the pull marks then it might not leave enough material rendering the bell too small. If you have a small enough body frame you might be able to get away with it.

Except for the sniper, knee which is minimal return edge is optional everywhere. Hot water bath. Basically bring water to a boil in a large pot, using protective gloves dip the item for roughly 30 seconds, remove, reshape and hold under cool water for roughly a minute or until cool. Repeat if necessary

Oops you're correct sorry, dyslexia wins again

Reliable systems are not cheap unfortunately.