ukswrath

If they made a product that equaled in quality and accuracy to other vendors then $900 isn't too bad actually. Again, we'll have to see.

As much as I'd like to support all our suppliers Anovos just isn't living up to standards these days, and yes I have a few costumes from them and never had an issue until now. I've been waiting for the pre ordered TLJ Executioner helmet. How difficult can it be to make a flipping helmet? Anyway folks need to do what they must to get armor or other. There are plenty of other suppliers out there now, it's suggested buyers use someone else.

Pretty sure Disney has given them an ultimatum. Get your s... together or we'll find someone else.

Ouch! Good thing filler is a must for this kit

Echoing the above then adding to it, it never hurts to polish your armor using some type of plastic UV protectant, this will help prevent yellowing. I personally like to use the 3M headlight restoration kit, $11 on Amazon. Besides coming with sanding pads for deep scratch removal it comes with a buffing wheel making polishing the armor a breeze. Most importantly the UV polish supplied is simply one of the best on the market.

Well said

Remove return edge and test fit. There should be very little space between the bells and chest / back plate plate. I wouldn't recommend going off anyone else's measurements when it comes to the bells. This is definitely one area that is absolutely unique to the wearer. Can't tell you how many applicants we've seen with too much trimmed off the bells. Be careful

The reason we ask to look at the back of the waist belt is to confirm how the holster is attached and if we need to make recommendation in other areas also. Correct, interior (unseen) connections are not taken into account during approvals.

Well Anovos boxes are close to the KB, maybe this will help. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31877-ukswraths-fotk-build-thread/?page=11&tab=comments#comment-442931

This? https://trooperbay.com/yellow-foam-helmet-liner

Return edge amount is entirely up to you, except for specific areas like the sniper knee which will need it.

In addition to Q's suggestions I'm personally not a huge fan of Tandy snaps for a couple reasons, this is only my observation. They're not a strong as most people believe they are for starters. We're starting to see a lot of Tandy double snap connection systems, some say two is better than one, I say if you use quality snaps you only need one. Second reason is they tend to react to E6000 glue. Tandy I don't believe uses good anti-corrosive coating so there's been countless cases where the snaps reacted negatively to the glue causing damage to certain armors. I've been suggesting "fastnap" or "Dot" snaps for a few years now and this is why. They're high quality, strong and are coated with an anti-corrosive material, not to mention they are priced within a few dollars of the Tandy. I have several personal costumes and countless commission builds that utilize a one snap system in all the required areas and yet I never worry about them coming loose. These things are strong. Hope this helps

Looking good Greg

Looking good Joe. There's no requirement stating you have to split the kidney, though it's accurate to do so it's one of those unseen areas that won't be held against you during approvals, not to mention if you're fortunate enough to have the waistline to slide in and out with no issues than more power to you.

The AM may not be as accurate as others armors yet, if those others don't fit you correctly what's the difference right? AM is quality armor, not to mention fans won't have a clue or care about the difference. Armors like AM and RT-mod are perfect for larger troopers, plenty of which now proudly wear the EIB and Centurion badge. Keep up the good work Brian.

Darker color for the darker areas I'm suggesting.

Looking good Tony Keep in mind if you plan on shooting for the higher levels of accuracy don't forget to remove ALL the return edge from the forearms wrist side. Keep up the good work

Holy smokes you're busting that kit out lol

Reinforce the armor from the inside adding another layer of ABS or equivalent. This with strengthen the armor also giving you more material to sand on.

Nice work Dan

Especially with the belt sander, one slip and it takes a huge chunk away lol

Just takes a little practice that's all Rob. You'll get it.

Also, the stripe edges should begin roughly a #2 pencil width from the side of the face.

Looking good Rob. Looking at your stencil, the tube strips look too wide. They should be roughly 2.5mm to 3mm thick. 9-13 count per cheek. Here's a reference photo.