MoSc0ut

Yes, there should be some return edge on the top but you have a lot there. It's just a friendly suggestion but I would take of a least 1/3 of what you currently have there. Looks like you have about 8-9mm when around 5mm looks a little cleaner. It's totally up to you though. I just found myself pulling out the Dremel after my first troop and going to town on mine as they were very much like yours at first, which led to much discomfort! (Especially when you get to the inner thigh region!) Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Looks good but there is still a lot of return edge on the top there. You may want to trim a bit more of that off. As for the over lap that is normal. You iron it over with a hobby iron or in my case, just an old iron with an old cotton T-shirt wrapped over it, then trim it down to the proper return edge. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Here's how I did mine. It's my version of connect the dots. This was super easy and although Trooper Bay makes awesome stuff, I personally, can't justify the $ for the stencil. More importantly I'm to impatient to wait for it to arrive! Jim - TK50899

I wish I had more space to collect more! Jim - TK50899

I hate to say it but that left one will probably need to be fixed. It'll probably be fine for basic approval but anything above that they take a closer look at it. I painted mine on and they turned out great. If you are feeling brave you can jump over to my build thread and see how I did mine. I wanted it to be as authentic as possible. Jim - TK50899

23 years spent in the Army and I spent a lot of time reading about WWII. It was kind of an obsession for a while. [emoji51] Jim - TK50899

I think Luke is safe on top of that island as long as they don't land on top of it. By the way is Chewie totally a jerk or what? "growwwolll....arrrgggg!" Translation: "Get out Rey, you can walk from here!" Sorry for the side track. Back to this amazing build! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Well you are there with the material and if it works go with it! Is it already white and with any "pokey" parts filed off? I saw that tutorial just a bit too late to do mine that way. I may do a retro fit. Fastening the bra hooks are a pain but I'm getting quite adept at it. (So many jokes come to mind with that last sentence.....but I'll be good!) and I do not like the Velcro for this application at all. But magnets would be amazing and I'm getting the itch to work on my armor again. Jim - TK50899

I was going to say the same thing but less sciencey! I would think a thin strip of regular steel that has several coats of a rust resistant paint and a coat or two of clear would be more "grabby". Jim - TK50899

If you want the higher res image PM me your email address. I use it as my background for my iPad! Jim - TK50899

Found a good reference photo for you. Check these troopers out! Especially the second from the right. There you have it, you look screen accurate! [emoji4] *edit* Also notice the mix of "hero" and "stunt" helmets too!

The M4 periscope was used by the TC to verify range to target in conjunction with the gunner through his sight. The M6 periscopes were used by the driver and the .30 Cal MG bow gunner that did not use the or need ranging capability. The .30 Cal MG used tracers to range targets instead, usually every 5th round is a tracer so that the bow gunner could "walk" the tracers to the target. Periscopes were a favorite target of enemy snipers so there were usually several spare prisms carried in each tank. That is why there is many, many prisms still found to this day but the rest of the periscope is much harder to find. Also as technology improved most of these items were probably treated as junk by the service members or sold to allies like Greece. The M4 Sherman was used by countries like Egypt and Jordan into the 70's. They probably weren't treated as revered historical items as we see it today. Jim - TK50899

All kits are about the same to assemble. With the ANOVOS there are a few things to fix with the helmet, so you end up taking it apart, just to put it back together again. With Walt's you do it all. I am very happy with my WTF kit but several of my good friends have the ANOVOS and they look great too. As far as quality goes only time will tell. Walt's kit is from a thicker ABS so some of the details are a little bit "soft", it's super sturdy and will last a long time. ANOVOS has sharper detail as it is a thinner ABS. I'm told it is very flexible though as for long time durability I don't know. Walt also offers his in HIPS now too. He also has a "Hero" helmet if you want to go that route. I mainly went with them because they were super nice and friendly and could get it to me faster than anyone else. This may not have been super helpful but as mentioned before it's very important to do your research and get in touch with your local garrison. Go to a few troops as a spotter and check out their kits. If there is a local armor party then that's even better! Read through some build threads if you haven't already. Also check out the EIB and Centurion application sections. There are excellent pictures of all makes of armors in there.

Your build is looking great so far! As far as the gaps, if you look at the many reference photos from original helmets there are far worse gaps. I think you are fine. Maybe some day you can revisit it and order a new set if it bothers you that much, but for now I say drive on! [emoji1360] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

#3 and I only know this because I already got mine and it's the cleanest one! [emoji6] I agree these are beyond amazing! Saving my pennies for a complete set to build the ultimate replica blaster! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Nathan, You can get your own soft goods for way less than $200. A set of all black underarmor, gloves and a neck seal will set you back $150 total, if that. That's all that they provide as soft goods. You still have to buy your own boots. As in my comment just above this there are a ton of options and be aware that certain armors fit certain body types better than others. Re-read the first post carefully and make some notes and inquire from the different makers. Also review the build threads on different armor types this is the best way to see which one is right for you. Also remember this isn't a cheap hobby. Expect to spend, at the very least, $850ish and that's if you are crafty and can sew, like me! Most spend $1100-$1200 by the time they are approved. I'm at about $1000 now because of adding things like a Hyperfirm blaster and various bits and pieces to give my TK a "voice". Best of luck! Feel free to contact any of us if you need more help. Jim-TK50899

ANOVOS is a good kit and LFL approved but most of the other kits are around the same price, give or take. I am partial to Walt's Trooper Factory TK kit. It's what I own and built. Not that it's any better than other kits, all the vetted vendors kits are awesome. Walt and his team are fantastic and the community that has sprung up around his armor are very supportive and kind. He is also a vetted vendor. You can find Walt's Trooper Factory on Facebook. Wait time is about 6 weeks from payment to Big Brown Box Day too. But ultimately it's up to your preference. I am about the same build as you. You can check out my build thread here: http://bit.ly/jimsstormtrooperbuild take a look and decide for yourself. Most of all have fun and welcome to the dark side! Jim-TK50899

Looks great! Once you install the face and ears the brow won't go anywhere. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good plan and I'm sure your shins will be fine! I'll try to reply sooner to this thread or you can PM me if your are at a critical decision point. My first troop was a 1 mile parade and it was 98 degrees out. I found every pinch point and spot that had too much return edge quickly! I also boosted Neosporin and band aid stocks prices single handedly! I still have a few spots to fix. It's a never ending labor of love!

I did catch that a few months ago but it's been a while since I visited my own build thread! The armor is holding up excellent and I'm getting ready to make my couple small fixes and submit for Centurion. Just been busy building Magic Wheelchairs! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The key to not cutting yourself is to go slow and make many small passes. This method also help prevent the blade from slipping sideways. Also whenever possible, make sure any body parts are not in the path of the blade! I have yet to find cut resistant gloves in my size at any local stores. I use the cloth gloves that have a nitrile coating. They have good dexterity, they are cheap, and if you're careful, even if the blade tries to get you you can usually react fast enough that only the glove is damaged and not your flesh! You may also want to consider doing all the fronts of the leg parts all at once as it's the same concept for all. When those are ready to go we can go over sizing the backs. That is the (not so) "fun" part! I forgot to mention that 1/4" is way too much return edge. Mine is somewhere between 3mm - 5mm, which is close to 1/4" but not quite, mine are closer to 3mm. Just enough to give the armor the "appearance" of thickness. If you leave 1/4" you will regret it after your first troop! Jim - TK50899

To add my two cents to this: don't trim any off the back of the calf at first. Preparation is key! Make 6 20mm cover strips (thighs use 4, shins use 2) and 2, 25mm (back of shins or "calves") Trim the front of the shin, leaving 11mm on each side. Do this by measuring 11mm in from where the armor transitions from the curved side to the flat part. I did this 3 times one each shin to ensure that it was consistently 11mm from top to bottom. Draw a line connecting the dots with a straight edge. I use a metal flexible ruler. Trimming the shin piece off. To get a good cutting surface I move my cutting mat to the edge of a table and wrap the shin around the edges of the table with the part I'm going to cut on top. I suggest the score and snap method with WTF armor. This is done by lightly scoring along the line you just drew. Do the first two or three passes with very little pressure. On the third or fourth pass gradually increase pressure. I do this 6 or 7 times in total. The first couple passes build a small channel for the blade to follow. The last 3 or 4 create depth. Now pick up the shin and grasp the part your trimming and snap it off by flexing it first away from the side you scored then back towards you working from one side to the other. It is a bit intimidating at first but it works great and is much faster and less messy than a dremel. Sand the edge with some 150grit and your done! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here in the NW you just don't have much luck like that. When I was stationed in Ft. Bragg, in the mid 90's, there was all kinds of cool stuff like that everywhere. If only I had had the foresight to pick some of that stuff up.....

Guess what showed up today? This capacitor is beyond amazing! I'm going to have to buy two more to complete the set. Lol! For those that haven't seen these here is the "360" If you can't find real ones, like me, these are the way to go! Great job Chris! Like Sly said I am eagerly awaiting a full kit for my ultimate display piece! Jim - TK50899

$675 for the standard kit with helmet. I was totally going to do a Shore Trooper but this has my attention now. ------------ Most would say, "Why not both?". Well if someone wants to sponsor me for one of them I will! [emoji23] Decisions, decisions.......