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MoSc0ut

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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Everything posted by MoSc0ut

  1. Not that my opinion matter a whole lot, but I agree that the painting of the recesses and the weathering / shading is what gives it the "animated" look. I think it's less environmental weathering and more like a "reverse highlighting" to make the details really stand out. That's my two cents. I was always a champion of this costume mainly for the fact that a lot of the kids we interact with would recognize this instantly. Many parents nowadays will let them watch Disney Channel long before introducing them to the OT. Jim - TK50899
  2. It looks right to me. In fact I think this is the same guide I used. Instead of nylon webbing I used a piece of rubber matting that is used to line the bottom of tool boxes. That way it will last much longer and without stretching. It was a pain in the butt to set the split rivets, because the material is much thicker, but in the long run it will be worth it. Jim - TK50899
  3. Looks great. You'll surely be done by the R1 premiere at this rate! Jim - TK50899
  4. Everything is looking good! This is the point where everything just starts falling into place. You'll be trooping before you know it and just in time for the R1 premier! I suggest using Chicago screws with a bit of thread lock on the holster to belt attachment. Rivets tend to leave a little pokey bit even when done right. They are approvable up to centurion plus if you ever want to switch out for a different/better holster you can more easily. Jim - TK50899
  5. When I first joined the Army in 1993 our units tracked vehicle mechanics still carried "grease guns" part of the BII (required equipment that goes with the item) was the flash hider. Our armored was constantly misplacing and ordering new ones mostly because we never had them mounted on the weapon. When we finally turned them in we found dozens of them all over the supply room and weapons vault. We turned in 4 with the weapons as required and the rest got tossed in the metal recycling on post! [emoji30] Had I known I would have grabbed these up!! Hindsight is always 20/20. Jim - TK50899
  6. Grata idea! I may upgrade my shin closures in the near future with this! I just love magnets. I think I may make a wood template to do the "ABS button holder" so I don't use up a magnet. [emoji6] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Absolutely! Think of it as a big model kit. I had never done anything like this beforehand. I consider myself pretty handy meaning I am familiar with tools and how to use them. I learned everything from reading threads like mine. I just filled in some gaps and kind of compiled together what I learned as best I could. Feel free to message me with any questions and I'll be happy to answer or point you in the right direction! I really love my WTF kit. I have several friends with ANOVOS kits and they are not holding up so great. As for ATA the only negative is that you can wait a considerable amount of time to get it bug it's a great kit. It's what I almost bought. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Humbrol French blue you mean. Lol! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Thanks, I just launched a booger out my nose at work laughing at this! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. That gap is fine. I put a little piece of ABS behind in the little channel and that closed up my gap a bit more. If you look at the screen used armor it's that and worse on most pieces. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. My suggestion is to get it to where you think you want it then put the armor on and walk around and just do normal daily stuff inside for 20-30 minutes. It will become very clear where you need to take off more or take it off all together. As mentioned we are all shaped slightly different so where it rubs me the wrong way may not have any effect on you at all. I discovered the bad places during a 1 mile parade! Don't be me. Jim - TK50899
  12. If you are doing return edges I suggest 3-5mm. Just enough to add some "thickness" but not enough to cause major discomfort. Jim - TK50899
  13. This is the best advice you're going to get from one of the most knowledgeable individuals in FISD. The picture of an actual screen used shin says it all. As long as yours looks somewhat this picture you are good to go! Jim - TK50899
  14. Here is what mine look like finished. I measured 11mm about 1/3 down and 11mm 1/3 up and used that as my guide for my straight line. The cover strip will hide any waviness to the outer "curvy" edge. Jim - TK50899
  15. Our unit provided training for Shia LeBouf prior to the filming of this movie. He sat next to me each afternoon while did our daily update briefing with the Battalion Commander. Got to wish him a happy birthday, which he spent tromping all over Gowen Field Idaho with us! Jim - TK50899
  16. I had a 23 year career in the Army and am a bit of a WWII history nut. I collect mostly knowledge rather than stuff. If you watch Fury, the inside of that M4A3 is extremely accurate. Jim - TK50899
  17. Not to sharp shoot or be a "smarty pants" you but you are incorrect. I offer this information only as friendly knowledge. [emoji51] The gunner sat to the left of the main gun with the loader directly behind him, as illustrated by this photo. He had a more advanced sight that was bore sighted to the main gun, after 1943 it was the M70 before that it didn't have a telescopic sight. The M4 periscope as stated before was used by the Tank Commander. The M6 on the commanders cupola was used for scanning 360 degrees around the tank while buttoned up. Jim - TK50899
  18. As far as using pliers to snap the ABS, you can also wrap the "grabby" part with a few layers of tape to cover the teeth so they don't leave marks. Also the bottom of the shins (ankle) will eventually have no return edge. For fitting purposes you should trim it off now as it won't properly fit over the boot when trying to size it for that final trimming. When sizing the armor pieces for the arms and legs remember that there will be about 1/2" gap between yourself and the inside of the armor, top and bottom, as a general rule. This is where a friend comes in handy, especially on those legs! Oh and as for an easy to use 1/2" guide most people's first digit of their index finger is about 1/2" in thickness, top to bottom. It doesn't have to be exact and remember to make it comfortable for you, if it needs to be a bit wider than that, then that's okay as long as they are all consistent. Jim - TK50899
  19. Here are some pictures I took yesterday. Good thing I pulled my kit out too. One of my shoulder straps was coming loose so fixed that and then took a look at the rest and did some maintenance. It's been troop after troop and I haven't had time to check all the parts and maintain it lately. Any way, here are the pictures of my magnet side closure for my abs. The bond between the magnets isn't super strong because they are only halves of magnets. But with several more full magnets the bond would be much stronger. I hope this shows a little better how this works in action. Cheers! Jim - TK50899
  20. They actually snapped in half when I set them on the table too close to each other, call it a "fortunate mistake"! If you leave out the "X" pattern and only sewed in a channel big enough for the magnet it would retain the "stretchiness". I like the idea of Velcro for the back up to the magnets too. I can take some additional photos when I get home. I'll draw a quick sketch too. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  21. ....and no rust or sharp edges! In fact I am now motivated to modify my shins with this mod! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  22. That's the same one with the junk Rubies blaster. I wouldn't buy any pre built kit. It won't fit you and you're going to have to rip it apart to make adjustments. The only thing harder than building armor is taking it apart and putting it back together. I'd almost guarantee this is some recast junk. As tempting as it is stay away from eBay armor. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  23. http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAR-WARS-STORMTROOPER-ARMOR-w-HELMET-1-1-PROP-COSTUME-READY-2-WEAR-TK-BLASTER-/291899015195?hash=item43f689801b:g:ygsAAOSwmLlX8~E3 DO NOT BUY THIS! You could buy two Walt's Trooper Factory kits for this much $, almost 3 ANOVOS kits, pretty much any of the vetted makers kits. If you really want to throw money at it here's an idea. Buy two Walt's kits. Send them to me with your sizes. I'll build you one and send it to you. I'll keep the other as payment! [emoji12] <---this is a joke and so is that eBay kit. Your local Garrison will help you build whatever kit you buy if you don't feel you can tackle it yourself. They most likely will even share any tools at an armor party if you don't have them. Good luck and if you need help contacting the vetted makers give one of us a shout and we'll help you. Jim - TK50899
  24. So you might consider this as an option. 8 did a similar thing with magnets but with my side closure on my Abs. First I sewed a little pouch to hold the magnets. This is 3" wide elastic, but black Coudura nylon would work because once you sew the elastic it stops being stretchy. Then I glued with e6000 it to one side Matching magnets CA glued to the other. Tried e6000 but the magnets kept pulling each other out of the puddle of glue! I also have a snap and elastic both top and bottom. Now if I bend or twist at the waist the magnets allow the armor to split apart but as soon as I stand back up the magnets pull the front and back back together and it looks all neat and tidy. This could easily be adapted to the backs of the shins. You'd just need to maybe add a traditional bra hook or maybe some elastic and a snap plate on the top to keep them from flying completely off. Just a thought. Jim - TK50899
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