MoSc0ut

Holy moly! I guess the search continues.....[emoji53] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Have you tried these guys? http://www.optocity.com/prism-reflective.htm They have an inquiry form to see what it would cost for them to be made and it looks like they may be U.S. based. But custom usually = $$$ Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

These ones may work: https://www.optotronics.com/proddetail.php?prod=p-0014 they are 16x8mm only 1mm off of the original specs. The lenses from the monocular should be compatible with these if what I'm reading is correct. ......and crap. Out of stock!! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

That's the one! Now to locate one with the proper dimensions.....[emoji848] Great work! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Brian already did the work for you! [emoji6]*update. Just checked that site you mentioned and they have no twisted right angle prisms. Bummer. There are a few called 90 degree right angle prisms which, based on the description, may do the same thing...... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wish I had one to sell! Jim - TK50899

Perfect! My clips aren't all the way next to the caps and I still got my EIB. It'll also be good for Centurion. When I have some time I'll fix my forearms and get fix it so my drop boxes stay in place and submit, (they slide a little on my belt at the moment), you're well on your way! Great job! Jim - TK50899

Just wait until after the clips are on to position and attach the panel. [emoji6] it may take a minute or two to get back to you but I'm happy to help! Jim - TK50899

The picture on the side of the bag was for a screw, looks like a sheet metal screw. The coarse thread on it is used to grab into material, generally sheet metal in this case. That means no existing hole required or a nut to hold it in place. With a more dense material, such as your PVC TD, they could still work to hold the clips in place. You'd need to drill a pilot hole first though. Hold a drill bit perpendicular to your screw. Choose one that is the same diameter as the screw but don't count the threads. It's referred to as the minor diameter. See this (low res) pic for reference: If you also add a bit of e6000 to the underside of the clips and maybe a dab on the threads you won't even need the nuts at all! The screws will hold tight in the PVC. I believe this is actually how the screen used ones were done! Yay!! Jim - TK50899

It looks good to me! If you can't get the end caps off you can drill the holes slightly smaller than the diameter of the screws and put a bit of e6000 between the clips and the body of the TD and hand tighten the machine screws. It may take a bit of will power to get the screws in but they should hold fine. You may have to do a bit of touch up on the paint on the screws though. Based on the types of screws you have I don't think the nuts will work on them anyways. Jim - TK50899

Next time I'd suggest using a ruler and measure on the inside of the cap and transfer that measurement to the TD tube. [emoji51] also a good trick when painting screws is to stab them into a piece of foam or card board with the heads up. That way when you paint them you don't have to wait for one side to dry before painting the other or messing up paint by laying them down. This will come in handy when painting the screws for your helmet. Good luck with the end caps! I knew once mine were on that was it. Jim - TK50899

Here you go! Jim - TK50899

You will be fine. It doesn't need to be perfectly smooth. I doubt the screen used ones were, ILM (before it was even called ILM) and the props dept in 1975-76 was run on a very tight budget and a lot of it was very "slap dash". If you haven't ever seen real "on screen" props for ANY movie back then you'd think a middle schooler had painted them! Jim - TK50899

Not meaning to sidetrack your awesome build thread but check out Magic Wheelchair on You Tube. I just started working with Ryan, who you'll see in the videos. This is my first build with them. Way more work than a set of Armor but worth every minute. Jim - TK50899

Apologies for my short, unhelpful, reply about the screws. Lord Vader is waiting for his TIE to be finished for Rose City Comic Con on Sept 11th. Lord Vader (aka, my Wish Kiddo, Bryce) is on the right with his light lightsaber! I'll be more helpful and specific in the future! [emoji51] ....We now return to our regularly scheduled program...... Jim - TK50899

I used brass slotted machine screws, rounded head. Take a look at the pictures on my build. Painted black. Jim - TK50899

Dang. Sorry Emma! I didn't mean to steer you wrong. [emoji53] Jim - TK50899

Good to know! Jim - TK50899

I think you'd be find for basic approval but if you go for higher you'll probably have to replace it. Also that brow trim is over 40 years old so it's probably shorter because it's a bit dried out and has shrunk. [emoji51] Jim - TK50899

My mic tips are a little wonky too soon wouldn't worry too much about that. If you look at screen captures of TK's they point in all sorts of directions! The frown screen looks great too. Now for the brow trim.....it's not supposed to be angled with the trap. It should be straight on the ends. [emoji15] Here's mine for reference and a screen used helmet for good measure. Sorry!! Jim - TK50899

I forgot to mention I think the TD looks just fine how it is. When it comes to installing the TD clips and caps here is my suggestion: Clips (do these first, obviously): drill a hole in between the two holes you drill for the screws. This allows for air to escape when pressing on the TD caps. Use a dab of e6000 on the threads of the screws OR get a washers and lock washers for each screw so the nuts don't back off. After the end caps are on....well you know about getting those off again! [emoji4] Caps: give these a water bath before trying to fit them on. They will expand a bit with the heat and become slightly pliable. They side on much easier then shrink and lock them in place once cooled, no glue needed. Here's how: Heat water up in a pan, big enough to fully immerse one cap, to boiling. Once boiling shut off the heat and/or move the pan off the burner. Drop ONE cap into the hot water for 30-45 seconds (my Walt's caps took at least 45seconds as they are pretty thick). Remove gently with tongs, shake excess water off and press over on end using heavy leather glove or oven mitt. *top tip* lay the hot end cap on the counter, open end facing up and push the tube down onto it. This keeps the end cap from distorting! Repeat. It's a little intimidating doing this the first time but it is actually very easy. Just don't burn yourself and have everything close at hand. Jim - TK50899

Looks awesome Emma! The wonkyness of the painting is totally screen accurate for the ANH bucket so don't stress about that. As for the tube stripes you can do the template if you want or if you're feeling brave you can try my technique I used for mine. I say skip all that, for now, and use the decals that Walt sent with his kit. If you want to paint them on later you can always peel those off and give it a go! Jim - TK50899

Yep! I have been watching that thread for some time and seen all the back and forth there. His set up is amazing but just a bit out of my price range, currently. I really like this set up because it's fully customizable and I really like doing/learning new stuff on my own (with help). It really adds to the overall satisfaction for me. My wife on the other hand......Last night I'm sitting on the couch with my laptop, with my bucket on, fans running, fiddling with the settings to get it to sound "just right". Constantly going, "How does this sound? TEST! TEST! How 'bout now?!? These aren't the Droid's we're looking for. That better??" That went on for like an hour and a half before she says, "Okay, time to put away your toys honey." [emoji23] Jim - TK50899

It runs off a 5v power supply. I'm currently using a cell phone charger to run mine. You can make a simple charger or simply buy one and strip off the case if you wanted to build it into a custom case to create an on board battery for this. [emoji362]! I'm going to design a case with an onboard rechargeable 18650 battery now. Thanks overactive brain....always stealing my "free time" with new ideas. Jim - TK50899

That's what I'm using! It draws so little power that I have no idea how long it'll last on 1, 18650 battery (same battery that's in the cheapo phone chargers you find at literally any store.) Jim - TK50899