Tr00per

Keep it up, it looks very sharp OT question: Does anyone know why the rear sight wasn't flipped over when casted ? It would help out allot of people gluing them the wrong way around most of the time.

@JKNO, That ROTJ MGC is really something... Love them all 3 really @Revyl, Almost sounds like a novalty ... how old is it ? .. perhaps it is time to upgrade ''Not saying that it looks bad, far from it.'' Looks very good, ''for it's age'' ? @Novak Dimon, What can one say... It sure shows all 6 ingredients to make up for a E11 Blaster captured in one shot. Very nice @PGHtrooper21, I can't tell if it's a kit or a real one or a mix .... In other words ... Awesome @usaeatt2, Perfecto .... Clean looks for a restoration! @Turrican, Ruff diamond... in my eye's a perfect display of what it is. ''Might i make a guess ? 1966,

I'm not sure what you like us to say.... The first blaster you showed us looks better with it's flaws, but the painted Hasbro toy has even more inaccuracies. Removing or replacing the trigger will also mean that light and sound won't work. A Hasbro toy is 40 euro A Hasbro blaster conversion skin kit is 27 euro A can of black paint is 8 euro A build guidence is 0 euro on FISD And ofcourse some glue ^^ I'm only saying this becouse buying a pre build converted toy can lead to dissapointment. Plus it's much more fun and satisfying to do yourself. With the parts listed above you can build a cheaper and way better looking blaster then the one on Etsy, and it will have lights and sound aswell. But if i was you, i would go with a Dday's kit or Doopy's all the way...

There isn't a major demand for them... ''All these people'' is taken over years. And well, they do pop up from time to time....

Wow 195 euro's for that .... The kit from doopy's is $61 + a can of black paint and some glue... ... and can be more accurate made then the 195 euro ($221) costing glued wrong way together e-11. Avoid it at all costs... unless the person is using some sort of special imperial military black paint.

The E-11 shown in first post looks pritty decent... Few things i noticed is that the cocking handle is the wrong way around, and the rear sight is way too high and backwards. Cleaning line on the bolt (also good for less friction) is too high and too thick, doesn't have the sear showing becouse of this... (doopy's has this aswell) Trigger guard is too small cousing it to sit in the wrong position. Bayonet lug is too low, and prob wrong way around aswell (classic error) Missing mag clip on the side..and details on the clip end. (looks like it's a doopy's overal, except the rear sight wich looks 3d printed) Again, ''overall'' it looks pritty decent It has the shapes and everything.... it all depends on how accurate you want, or want to make it... A kit like suggested before is something nice to buy from Dday... All the bits and pieces are a direct replica of the real thing.. All you need to do is put them in the right position, and a can of black paint.

Hi all, This topic is for posting your E-11 build.. So when you are in the middle of making one, and one day it's complete ''done'', you can post your finished piece in this topic. Perhaps it's nice to have it as a sticky one day...

I got a biker scout helmet from him, and got a replacement part (no questions asked) for free... (whole face plate) I will deff buy from him again.... but never knowed that he makes plastic versions now aswell (thnx for the heads up) So really no idea about the plastic versions... but i can say that service is excelent.

Nice looking armor for sure, hoping to get it one day myself .... The blaster looks nice aswell, but the bayonet lug sit's the wrong way around

The induction brazing process, latterly used with great succes in permanently attaching the componements of the gun's casing assembly, was not introduced until series production of the sterling began in the mid-1950's. Prior to that, production of the relatively few numbers of guns required relied much more intensively on hand-work. Early magazine housings were butt-welded to the casings, a process that left an unslightly bead of glass-hard weld around the joint. This was laboriously ground to approximate a smooth radius from casing to housing. (with greater or lesser success, as examinations of the closeup photos of these early guns will reveal). In response to Ordnance board complaints about the durability of the Parkerised-and-painted finish in use up to that time, a process was developed whereby a wood resin was added to a tough black paint which, when sprayed on the complete casing and oven-baked, set up into a random, non-slip surface of tiny, hard wrinkles on a dullish black background, rather like parkerising in reverse! Voila, the crackle finish, which as David Howroyd points out, had the happy secondary advantage of hiding, ''a multitude of sins'', especially in smoothing over the residual grind marks on the welded joint between the casing and the magazine housing. The later switch to induction brazing solved this problem, as it was as much more controllable process and left a far neater join. However, by that time the crackle finish had established itself as entirely satisfactory, and it was thus maintained throughout all commercial Sterling production, and only the UK Milatary usually opting for matt black paint.

Love it.... Sended a PM about a video, that might be worth adding to a allready nice addition to FISD ''this thread '' Cheers, Dennis.

Here's what it is made out of.. And two different sight range flips.. The left one is a MK3 and right MK4

I love all the details that went into this kit.... Love the build progress so far aswell as the pictures.. One thing you might check is the position of the bayonet lug, I believe it sit's the wrong way around.... (not really sure couse of the angle, but looks like it)

Hi there, no problem 1) The sear that sit's inside the bolt consists of 3 parts as you see in this picture.... ''ignore the bottom right pin as you won't see it anyway's'' The ignoring pin is the pin that keeps it all together inside the bolt.. Top ''plunger'' is the part you are refering to with the spring on it.... it's that shape, and only a small part show's as the rest is inside the bolt itself... 2) Euhmmm, the steel band (it's a self cleaning bolt, so those bands are there to remove dirt, and it makes the bolt have less friction with the tube) It's 6mm. Doopy's = 8mm, almost 9mm (too wide) , and it sit's at the wrong position as you might can tell from provided pictures... So you could sand it down, flat ... and find out a way to replace that part with perhaps a small piece of cut aluminium.. But judging from your progress, you have figured that out allready

Hi there, when you require more, let me know I can sent them in PM.. The first two digits stand for it's year it was made.... so 1963 in this case. The position of the digits can be lower postioned on later dated bolts, '' a little lower'' like the years S65, S66 with the rest following ''I could show you the difference if you wish.... It's called a sear btw (extractor) that captures the empty shell and when the bolt pulls back the sear has the empty shell in a grip (spring loaded sear) and ejects it by the ejector when it's pushed back from the gas reaction when fired

Just be sure that you put the sight pin housing the right way around when you glue it in place, as the demonstration in your pic is wrong way around..

Nevermind Had the wrong page infront of me ^^

Sure you can do that

Here's some picture's of the bayonet -----------

No problem, Hope you can get it fixed without too much trouble, but then again, someone wouldn't notice it quick the way it sit's now.. I thought i should post about it, before people would take your picture's as a reference.....

Hi there, To keep it short.... ''Bayonet lug placement'' Ducati's build = correct Derrek's build = not correct Here's a pic of a real sterling... Hope this helps... Cheers, Dennis..

Very nice build But just one thing i noticed, and thought it should be noted, is that your bayonet lug is the wrong way around Other then that... looks great...

I've uploaded some random pic's of the book... (not all ''yet¿'' ofcourse ^^ And not the best camera angle, but yeah it will give you a nice idea... ----------

Can't be more happy with it.. Does anyone know how many were made ? ---------

1000 for the lot ? ^^ ohh wait this aint the buy sell section Very nice setup and picture's overall .. ''Thanks for sharing'' Never thought there were so many close to equal looking counters. Cherish it as i cherish the picture's ... Cheers, Me