I'm Batman

As previously discussed, above first pic was the DVH front sight, and then my first attempt at recreating a new sight. Not too bad, but after Aaron posted some measurements of the real deal http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28936-e-11-pvc-pipe-build-templates-imperial-and-metric/ I realised mine was a bit out. Take 2 below, started with a solid pice of resin (cut from unused DVH Hengstler). I was originally going to leave it as a slot for the actul sight to sit in, but decided to increase the realism and drilled a hole. Will epoxy the sight pin in when I epoxy the sight onto the barrel. Yes, I left it as curving the bottom of the sight block. Waaay too hard for someone with my skills (or lack thereof) to attempt cutting out the receiver tube. It is now to specs with about 0.5mm across most sections Let me know what you think. Cheers Ian

What he said ^^ Just to clarify - NON visible strapping is up to you. VISIBLE strapping such as shoulder elastics, drop boxes, etc must be as per CRL's.

No idea, but would it just snap on as it slides on, so therefore would need to be levered up and off?

Like # 2 for you Mr Master.

Nice work Tino, well deserved 'sticky'!

Oops. Clumsy fingers on an iPad.....

Congrats Pete!

Congrats Clont. Well done!

Also, check out this useful thread, if you haven't already http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26477-what-we-know-about-strapping-snaps-rivets-etc/page-3#entry350784

The total of 7 rivets is one for the cod, as Germain pictured, and 6 for the ab/kidney closure.

Getting back to the end lug, you can see by this pic that the bit that joins to the pipe was quite a bit larger than the locking key section. That's what prompted me to sand smooth bit that joins to the pipe. A bit late now, but I would guess that the joining section was around 41mm but the locking part 38mm or so. Putting the end cap on resulted in it being quite loose. To combat this I tried to lay a 1/2mm thick piece of styrene around, with the locking keys cut out. Unfortunately the styrene did not like epoxy and it literally fell off when I removed the tape after drying. Next idea was to pack it out with green stuff Much better! The end cap is quite snug now. And this was how I joined the lug to the pipe. Basically just butt jointed against each other, but with 4 'pins' - actually strips of 1.6mm aluminium to key the two pieces together. Later sanded smooth obviously. Thanks for checking in. Any comments welcomed!

And straight!

No. Centurion also takes the blaster to new levels, just as the rest of the armor is taken to new levels. But why or how would that happen anyway?

Nice! Do share . Where from, how much....?

Is a gusset the elastic part? I used a flexible fabric paint for mine. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/27403-another-boot-thread-but-with-spray-paint/ Works a treat. No sign of flaking or rubbing off yet. -----------

Nothing too exciting here, but it is exciting to get some major parts glued on. Did the old pin and epoxy trick again I also epoxy and pinned the magazine housing, then when I put the grip on and held the gun, I went "Oh F*&^$%" The magazine housing wasn't straight. Others may not have noticed but I certainly could. Now I will vouch for the strength of the epoxy. I dremelled through the epoxy, then the pins. I think I had about 5-10mm of epoxy in the middle and it still wouldn't break off! Finally did get it off, and it's glued and drying again now. Pics of the finished item to come....

and you're about to lose your E-11

Looking good mate. One question - is that something under the front of the shoulder straps, or are they just sitting up because of the shape of your chest plate? From a 'looks' point of view, you could certainly try to straighten up the straps, so they're not wandering off to the outside of your back plate. Not sure if that will be required for EIB, or just a fitment recommendation. Would it be of benefit to move the whole strap forward? You can see way more strap at the rear, than the front. Good luck!

Geez! It's hard enough getting up and down stairs in TK armor. Imagine those flippers!

Great idea! I wonder what real life items come with a spring that small, or how hard it would be to make your own with thin piano wire... I have seen them actually. On radio controlled planes. Could check out the local Hobby Shop!

No way I would have the tools or skills either, but depending on the measurements, something like this aluminium channel might work. http://www.bunnings.com.au/metalmate-rcr-10-x-10-x-1-5mm-1m-aluminium-channel_p1079292 Edit - sorry about the pic being so small.

We can always rely on Aaron to come through with the goods. Thank you, that pic of the end lug will also help me with my current task.

Great work so far Brian. I saw Truimphmark's ones for sale and wondered about doing just that. Will be interesting to see how fragile it might be. I wonder if making a metal side piece/bracket would help??

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/20859-accurate-anh-stormtrooper-strapping-brackets-v-20-now-available/ He's taking a break, but you can see how easy they are to bend up. I did mine for a $2- piece of aluminium. There's a 'How To' in the How to/Assemby section too. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/10053-fs-thermal-detonator-belt-clips/

Make sure you contact them and get some sort of response, or at least evidence of trying to contact them. If you have no luck with them you've only got 45 days to dispute via paypal. Check with your bank what their policy is if you paid by credit card.