Coastertk

And the winner is..... Benjamin!! Nice job trooper!

Yeah, sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

Hey Ben, I think you might have done a little too much. Gazmosis had suggested you remove the lowermost T-track on the magazine side and add vent holes. From your updated photo it looks like you removed the T-track from both sides. The ejection port side should still be T-tracked.

You will need to clamp the metal ruler to the cutting table to prevent it from sliding.

From the photo it looks like you are looking for the rear shoulder bridge tie down elastic. To secure the back (floating) side of the shoulder bridge to the back plate. For that I used 1/4" white elastic. Tied in a knot on the underside, and E6000'd in place directly onto the back plate shoulder locations.

You are talking about the chest/back connection under the shoulder bridge right? Any Fabric store will carry this. I used 2" white for the shoulders. I then use Velcro under the bridge to keep the elastic in place and not pull outward when my shoulder bells are attached. Hope this helps

I got mine at a fibreglass supply shop.

Nice job Benjamin. A very quality build you've got there. Well done.

Thanks for the push Steve.Here's what I've done, Thinned out all my black outline of the tears and traps. Adjusted the positioning of the rear trap vents. Added two tube stripes on each side. I've enlarged my ab buttons And I have resized my rear cover strips I will retake all my photos and submit an application soon. Get well Steve.

"All the X-wings and TIE fighters can't undo the fact that Jar Jar Binks exists."

Thanks. That picture would have been great the first time around. You know how sometimes you look so hard to find something that's right in front of you.

Found this pic with the help of Google. I'm counting 12 on the screen used helmet and that's what I'm going with. Thanks guys.

I've been looking thanks, but most views don't show a detailed closeup of this particular part. Or my eyes are too blurry from trying to paint the small details over again. Was looking for more of a definitive answer.

How many for ANH Stunt? Can't seem to find much info. Thanks.

I barely have 3 small ridges up front on my ATA. Also it helps to build up the underside of the bridge with small strips of ABS. This helps to build it up to a flat surface where you can then glue it onto the chest plate.

I'm no expert, but if you want to achieve that particular look I would glue your black elastic at the very bottom of your shoulder bell. I can't even see your elastic in the picture. Also make sure your bicep hook sticks out the top as low as possible.

Jay Bath 73427 EIB Letter Thank you!

Thank you so much for the EIB endorsement. The painting details were a bit out of my range of talent to say the least. I will work on each one of your points to make my bucket more uniform. As for my rear cover strips, you are correct that they are "bridging a gap" so to say. About 1/2". I will put my ABS paste experience into play here to fill the gap and redo my rear cover strips before applying for Centurion. Thanks again. EIB!!!

Name: Jay Bath Armor: ATA Helmet: ATA Blaster: Doopy Doos Pipe Build Height: 5'10" Weight: 195lbs Boots: TKBoots Canvas Belt: Trooperbay Hand Plates: Sonnenschein Holster: Darman Neck Seal: Darman's Wife Electronics: Aker 1506 with ICOMM, Echo's Fan System, Skyminer's Environmental Audio System Thank you for your consideration.

ATA supplies 4/40 Ear screws. That's a #4 with 40 thread per inch. Hope it helps.

TK 73427 requesting 501st access. http://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=16298

That's some amazing work. Your daughter is only going to grow into it. Well done!!

I was following some advice from a fellow trooper in an earlier post and was aiming for the better safe than sorry outcome. I was trying to figure out how to clamp the nylon evenly without putting all the pressure on the highest point (the snap). I was pretty happy with the way the snap plates laid in all nice and flat.

In order to avoid putting any clamping force on the snap itself,(debate on weather or not E6000 and metal snap and clamping can warp your ABS plastic), I came up with some clamping buddies. 1 1/2" square wooden blocks with 5/8" hole in center. Just make sure the wooden block is thicker than the highest point of the snap and that the center hole is larger than the snap itself. Put a small piece of duct tape over the back of the snap, apply glue and start clamping the nylon without putting any force on the metal snap.