T-Jay

Regarding size and positioning of that plastic stripe: please check some original reference pictures for this. To me it currently looks a bit wide.

Had some problems posting pictures a while back, too. It always worked with the image button (see red circle below). And since 1. of August last year, only the BBCode worked on my flickr-account (see blue circle below) Have you tried that BBCode Mode already? Maybe that works... -----------

Well, I can't tell of any additional weight only by applying that plasti dip spray paint (maybe in combination with other things). But I definitely found some nice side effects: - No more light can shimmer through the thin vac-formed ABS, which keeps the inside very dark and that makes the green lens look really black. - It also gets even harder to see the wearer’s eyes behind the lens. - If you watch the back side of a TK, many times you’ll be able to see straight into the helmet. The black interior then is an advantage. I’ll also use a balaclava for my TK display to avoid seeing any skin or mannequin parts.

Just painted mine with plasti-dip and replaced the white foam.

Hi John, it's really fun to see your fast progress. Not sure if you used the correct grub screw on the magazine housing. There are two of them in the set: short (5mm) and long (10mm) and these have different diameters! Can't surely tell from your pictures, but you might have mixed them up. Use the big one in the magazine housing, while the small one is for the front sight. And the two metal screws in the scope front are to be placed a bit deeper inside (heads not outstanding).

Thanks for the flowers, John You're on a good way with this build...

Due to the fact that a specific spring diameter is required (inner AND outer), specific wire thickness, length and number of coils (and that pressure issue to the end cap), I left the idea of a real one and decided to go for the non functional (but real looking) spring. But mine was just for a TK display. You have to ask yourself how important the operational charging handle is for you...

Good progress, John. It all looks so easy on your pictures. If the other parts from that set can be integrated so easy too, you're going to make a new speed record Just one thing: In your last two pictures it looks like you could hollow out a bit more of the folding stock. The inlay is clearly visible, but it makes the folding stock appear very thick at that section.

This is going to get tricky, as a real spring might put some serious pressure to your end cap mechanism and might blow this away. This could possibly get reduced by cutting off some coils at the end. But at least you still want the 11 coils visible through that slot, so you may have to work with a huge spacer in your end cap... Will keep my fingers crossed for your local search.

That depends on what holes you mean. Pictures would really help us to help you . The big holes on the bottom side can be drilled, while the small holes on the side are not to be drilled through (these simulate rivets).

Nice start, John Really curious on how you will do things in this build. Following...

Yep, it was also posted in one of the larger threads about the Ep.7 stormtrooper armor, but it's nice to watch anyway.

Wow, really cool pictures - and that vice is nice, too Congratulations to this awesome blaster collection.

No return edge at the front of the forearms (you've mentioned to go for Centurion) Seeing you've updated your signature

A very clean work on the frown and the eyes so far. Some use hot glue to keep these in place. Have also seen screws to do that job. Looks like the left inner forearm needs a cut at the elbow (like the right one has). Otherwise it'll be difficult to move this arm later (for example to hold your blaster). Use your gloves with added hand guards to check, if trimming of forearms towards your wrist is required. The hand guards need some space left to allow you full movement here. The difference between the hot water and the heat gun is, the water will warm up the whole part while the heat gun can be used to a specific area or spot. Ah, and your signature currently lacks the link to this build

As it has been said in other threads: patience is the key in this hobby. Just give it some more time...

Thanks for that brilliant explanation! Think I could use these pictures in near future...

Love that article! - sorry, meant I hate it

Very nice progress Ian. Are the first two pictures the same? Or do we have to find the 5 differences somewhere? Can you explain, how the tracks are attached to the tube? Any glue or just bent to sit tight?

Ah, feels so good to be home again...

Fully agree, Derrek. That's the reason why I've also chosen the 20mm x 2mm version for my completion sets. Looks nice and is strong enough to hold a resin or a real scope.

Feels like the beginning of a new era...

Hi Rafe, your concerns about a slightly greyish looking helmet might depend on the thickness of the plastic. I did that modification on my TM lid (1,5mm ABS) and was very happy with the result. If you click on the 3rd link in my signature (ANH Stunt TM) and scroll to the end of entry #1 you can read why I would do this again.